Red Lights

alteredu · 06-15-2011, 04:16 PM

Been there done that. First, let’s address the Biondo button. Whether it is slowing down with all the spacers removed is a function of how you are releasing the button. If you have all the spacers out, and are sliding your thumb or finger off the button, and letting it snap open, it actually gets faster with all the spacers out because the spring is getting stronger. It only slows down to about half the stroke if you’re slipping your release digit off the button because of the increase spring pressure. If you are pulling your arm all the way up and keeping your thumb on the button, you will see a slight decrease in time. Another important thing is the motion you are releasing the button with your arm. Believe it or not, trying to be fast makes you inconsistent. Having the same motion, and using the same muscles every time is very important. Doing a consistent release without being hyped up will make you very consistent, also not being hyped up will slow you down.
If you have a glide with an aftermarket case, you can slow down the transbrake release. There is a bolt by the transbrake solenoid that is adjustable. Most cases six turns out is max fluid release. If you screw this in all the way, then back it out 1.5 to 2 turns, it will slow down the fluid release and give you some additional time.
Yes, tire pressure will technically help, but I have found that front tire pressure does not make that much difference. I think the most important thing about rear tire pressure is if it is giving you consistent 60 FT times. If it is, my theory is that it is more important to be consistent than trying to slow the car down with rear tire pressure and perhaps making the car less consistent.
But, the most important thing is how you release the button. Blocking off the lights with tape on your shield works for some people. The challenge can be when to come up on the converter. Some people can figure it out, and some people can’t. Myself, I can’t have anything in my mind but releasing the button when I am looking at the light. If I am thinking about what I do next, I screw up. I have had to change my routine so I am not thinking about anything but the release. Another thing that helps is writing down what you’re doing, and review it before you enter the beams. Example, I always replete these things out loud to myself before staging. 1. Stage carefully and shallow. 2. Cut a .010 light. 3. After the second bulb, stare deep into the bulb and don’t have any other thoughts. 4. Have a consistent release. These things have worked for me, hopefully some of the might help others. FYI, chipping down will help, but if you are picking the wheels, it might hurt because it gives the motor a bigger run on the converter. Perhaps try getting closer to your stall and see how that works.

06-15-2011, 04:16 PM	#11
alteredu Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Posts: 1 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Red Lights Been there done that. First, let’s address the Biondo button. Whether it is slowing down with all the spacers removed is a function of how you are releasing the button. If you have all the spacers out, and are sliding your thumb or finger off the button, and letting it snap open, it actually gets faster with all the spacers out because the spring is getting stronger. It only slows down to about half the stroke if you’re slipping your release digit off the button because of the increase spring pressure. If you are pulling your arm all the way up and keeping your thumb on the button, you will see a slight decrease in time. Another important thing is the motion you are releasing the button with your arm. Believe it or not, trying to be fast makes you inconsistent. Having the same motion, and using the same muscles every time is very important. Doing a consistent release without being hyped up will make you very consistent, also not being hyped up will slow you down. If you have a glide with an aftermarket case, you can slow down the transbrake release. There is a bolt by the transbrake solenoid that is adjustable. Most cases six turns out is max fluid release. If you screw this in all the way, then back it out 1.5 to 2 turns, it will slow down the fluid release and give you some additional time. Yes, tire pressure will technically help, but I have found that front tire pressure does not make that much difference. I think the most important thing about rear tire pressure is if it is giving you consistent 60 FT times. If it is, my theory is that it is more important to be consistent than trying to slow the car down with rear tire pressure and perhaps making the car less consistent. But, the most important thing is how you release the button. Blocking off the lights with tape on your shield works for some people. The challenge can be when to come up on the converter. Some people can figure it out, and some people can’t. Myself, I can’t have anything in my mind but releasing the button when I am looking at the light. If I am thinking about what I do next, I screw up. I have had to change my routine so I am not thinking about anything but the release. Another thing that helps is writing down what you’re doing, and review it before you enter the beams. Example, I always replete these things out loud to myself before staging. 1. Stage carefully and shallow. 2. Cut a .010 light. 3. After the second bulb, stare deep into the bulb and don’t have any other thoughts. 4. Have a consistent release. These things have worked for me, hopefully some of the might help others. FYI, chipping down will help, but if you are picking the wheels, it might hurt because it gives the motor a bigger run on the converter. Perhaps try getting closer to your stall and see how that works.