|
![]() |
#4 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: West Chester
Posts: 67
Likes: 28
Liked 29 Times in 14 Posts
|
![]()
While I'm not sure what "clean" neutral means to you, I'm assuming that it means you don't have to go through any other gear positions to get to neutral.
I have used both forward and reverse pattern valve bodies with equal success. With the forward pattern valve body you have a clean neutral as all you do is bump it in from 3rd. Be sure you get a valve body that uses the upper half from an early model C-4 ('65-'66). I have one from Joel and it does have the earlieir model valve body. My experience has been that a late model valve body will always have some "flare"on 2-3 shift. Even when I could get one to shift with minimal flare, it wasn't long before it would get progressively worse as clearances changed. It's an inherent timing problem in the late model vlave body, so I'm told. If you want to use the reverse pattern, find an old Hurst AutoStick Shifter. It allows you to "bypass" the ratchet and slide from high gear directly to neutral. It has the reverse lockout so you won't accidently over reach and find yourself in deep do-do. I have had mine since I purchased it in the early 80's. It can be "tightened up" when it gets some wear will feel like new. You can still get new cables that fit it. It's been in two race cars over the years and has got to have a million gear shifts on it. I would think you might be able to track one down and "tune it up". As far as putting it in neutral, I have been doing so in my stocker for the past 10 years along with shutting off the motor and coasting to stop. Upon off season inspection I have seen no ill effects from doing this. Last edited by Steve Sullivan; 03-08-2011 at 11:50 PM. Reason: added something I forgot |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|