Hooking up an A Body Mopar

bill dedman · 04-27-2009, 04:55 PM

My bracket car needs help, but I'm not sure which way to go with rear suspension mods, and since the Stock Eliminator '67-76 A bodies with small blocks are very similar to what I run, power-wise, I thought I'd ask for some advice on making this thing hook.

Here's the car's specs: 904 Torqueflite-equipped 1972 Plymouth Valiant 4-door (just 14 pounds heavier than a '72 Duster, so should be very similar chassis dynamics; same 108" wheelbase, etc.) Race weight with heavy-*** driver 3,600. Engine is a near-stock, Vortech supercharged 360 Magnum running 10 pounds of boost; chassis dyno says 445 RWHP at about 5,500 rpm and and 470 RW torque. Redline is 6,000 for reasons of longivity. Best 1,000-ft. e.t. was 9.74 @106 mph. Best 1.8th-mile (same pass) was 7.59 @94. Those were with minimal bite (1.81 60-ft. time) No quarter-mile times available, but that equates to approximately 11.85 and 116mph, 1/4-mile.

The rear is an 8.75" Auburn Sure Grip, (new.), and the ring and pinion I have for it is a 4.10 ratio (will be installed, soon.) The times I gave you were done with a 3.55.1. The 4.10 will go in as soon as the Moser axles get here. No spool, just a NEW limited-sliip.

New slicks will be probably 28" tall. That will put me at the finish line of the 1,000-foot strip I run, just under the redline with the 4.10 gear. The tires I had when I ran it with the 3.55 were 26"-tall, B.F. Goodrich T/A Drag Radials. No burnout. No traction, either. It spun all the way through 1st gear, no matter what, but it was only 48 degrees... so, maybe that was why the VHT didn't seem to work.

Anyway, the 1.81 60-foot times I turned won't get it. Wheelspin is my enemy, so I need some advice as to which way to go with the mods.

What I have in use, currently insofar as "traction aids" are: stock, 5-leaf rear springs with three clamps each side, on the front section; pre-load air bag on right rear; adjustable pinion snubber, 1/2" gap; 90-10 shocks up front with stock torsion bars. KYB Gas-Filled shocks in back, non-adjustable. 8" wide BFG T/A drag radials at 16-pounds, on 7"-wide, 15"-diameter Centerlines. Spin city...

I know the tires have to go, and I am not averse to buying REAL drag slicks from Hoosier, or M/T... or, whoever, but this car has very limited lateral wheel-well dimensions (not like a Duster, which has more room), so they can't be 10.5's... those would hit everywhere, I'm afraid. They DO need to be 15"-wheel size and 28"-tall... no exception, because of the wheels I have and the gears I'll be running. Other than that, manufacturer and width can be anything, within the "fit" parameters, width-wise.

What I REALLY need to know is this: Is it possible to get this car to hook WELL, with "old-technology" super stock springs, or do I really need to bite the bullet and buy a set of Cal-Tracs or Slide-a-Link bars? This engine pulls really hard at low rpm's and will generate some reasonable (1,60?) foot times IF I can get it to hook.

I'd prefer NOT to have to put Cal-Tracs (or, the others) on it if I can get by with just the S/S springs as it's a street driven car and I really don't want all that hardware hanging down in view unless it's totally necessary. But, I WILL go that route if I have to. Also, will Cal-Tracs work with my stock springs (if I have to go that route), or should I use Cal-Tracs AND S/S springs??? I'm pretty ignorant about this stuff, as to what to use.

Can some of you A-Body Stocker gurus tell me which route to take with this thing? I'm lusting after a launch like the A-Body cars that run well in F, G, and H/SA bring to the strip, and am willing to spend a few bucks to get it. It's just a bracket car, so it will end up with a fiberglass hood, bumper, etc., and already has two big batteries in the trunk; none up front (the blower occupies the old battery space.)

It's a shame to have the power to go low-to-mid 11's in the quarter and barely be able to break 12-flat because of traction problems.

Any help on this issue would be greatly appreciated.

Recommendations, please.... ????????????????

Bill

04-27-2009, 04:55 PM	#1
bill dedman VIP Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Conway, AR Posts: 1,739 Likes: 0 Liked 6 Times in 4 Posts	Hooking up an A Body Mopar My bracket car needs help, but I'm not sure which way to go with rear suspension mods, and since the Stock Eliminator '67-76 A bodies with small blocks are very similar to what I run, power-wise, I thought I'd ask for some advice on making this thing hook. Here's the car's specs: 904 Torqueflite-equipped 1972 Plymouth Valiant 4-door (just 14 pounds heavier than a '72 Duster, so should be very similar chassis dynamics; same 108" wheelbase, etc.) Race weight with heavy-*** driver 3,600. Engine is a near-stock, Vortech supercharged 360 Magnum running 10 pounds of boost; chassis dyno says 445 RWHP at about 5,500 rpm and and 470 RW torque. Redline is 6,000 for reasons of longivity. Best 1,000-ft. e.t. was 9.74 @106 mph. Best 1.8th-mile (same pass) was 7.59 @94. Those were with minimal bite (1.81 60-ft. time) No quarter-mile times available, but that equates to approximately 11.85 and 116mph, 1/4-mile. The rear is an 8.75" Auburn Sure Grip, (new.), and the ring and pinion I have for it is a 4.10 ratio (will be installed, soon.) The times I gave you were done with a 3.55.1. The 4.10 will go in as soon as the Moser axles get here. No spool, just a NEW limited-sliip. New slicks will be probably 28" tall. That will put me at the finish line of the 1,000-foot strip I run, just under the redline with the 4.10 gear. The tires I had when I ran it with the 3.55 were 26"-tall, B.F. Goodrich T/A Drag Radials. No burnout. No traction, either. It spun all the way through 1st gear, no matter what, but it was only 48 degrees... so, maybe that was why the VHT didn't seem to work. Anyway, the 1.81 60-foot times I turned won't get it. Wheelspin is my enemy, so I need some advice as to which way to go with the mods. What I have in use, currently insofar as "traction aids" are: stock, 5-leaf rear springs with three clamps each side, on the front section; pre-load air bag on right rear; adjustable pinion snubber, 1/2" gap; 90-10 shocks up front with stock torsion bars. KYB Gas-Filled shocks in back, non-adjustable. 8" wide BFG T/A drag radials at 16-pounds, on 7"-wide, 15"-diameter Centerlines. Spin city... I know the tires have to go, and I am not averse to buying REAL drag slicks from Hoosier, or M/T... or, whoever, but this car has very limited lateral wheel-well dimensions (not like a Duster, which has more room), so they can't be 10.5's... those would hit everywhere, I'm afraid. They DO need to be 15"-wheel size and 28"-tall... no exception, because of the wheels I have and the gears I'll be running. Other than that, manufacturer and width can be anything, within the "fit" parameters, width-wise. What I REALLY need to know is this: Is it possible to get this car to hook WELL, with "old-technology" super stock springs, or do I really need to bite the bullet and buy a set of Cal-Tracs or Slide-a-Link bars? This engine pulls really hard at low rpm's and will generate some reasonable (1,60?) foot times IF I can get it to hook. I'd prefer NOT to have to put Cal-Tracs (or, the others) on it if I can get by with just the S/S springs as it's a street driven car and I really don't want all that hardware hanging down in view unless it's totally necessary. But, I WILL go that route if I have to. Also, will Cal-Tracs work with my stock springs (if I have to go that route), or should I use Cal-Tracs AND S/S springs??? I'm pretty ignorant about this stuff, as to what to use. Can some of you A-Body Stocker gurus tell me which route to take with this thing? I'm lusting after a launch like the A-Body cars that run well in F, G, and H/SA bring to the strip, and am willing to spend a few bucks to get it. It's just a bracket car, so it will end up with a fiberglass hood, bumper, etc., and already has two big batteries in the trunk; none up front (the blower occupies the old battery space.) It's a shame to have the power to go low-to-mid 11's in the quarter and barely be able to break 12-flat because of traction problems. Any help on this issue would be greatly appreciated. Recommendations, please.... ???????????????? Bill __________________ Bill Last edited by bill dedman; 04-27-2009 at 05:02 PM.