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10-14-2020, 07:21 PM | #1 |
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Door crash bars
Is it legal to remove them and any tips on how to on a 1973 Nova?
TIA Already gave up. Last edited by rboyle; 10-15-2020 at 10:07 AM. |
10-14-2020, 09:03 PM | #2 | |
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Re: Door crash bars
Quote:
However , seeing there's no tech, it's not enforced anymore. PM me and I'll tell you how I would do it on a '73 Nova bracket car ;-)
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10-15-2020, 08:37 AM | #3 |
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Re: Door crash bars
Not legal but on our '87 Grand Prix bracket car, I chopped off both ends at the welds with a cutoff wheel, (After cutting out most of the inner door panel to make room). It wasn't easy but damn, they sure are HEAVY!
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10-15-2020, 09:05 AM | #4 |
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Re: Door crash bars
Mine were easy because we made sheet metal door panels, as Devo said you will be amazed how much they way. My Nova was a bracket car and weighed 2520 minus driver with sbc aluminum heads.
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10-15-2020, 09:25 AM | #5 |
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Re: Door crash bars
I would never take the crash bar out of the driver's door.
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Bob Shaw V/SA 515 |
10-15-2020, 10:22 AM | #6 |
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Re: Door crash bars
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10-15-2020, 08:56 PM | #7 |
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Re: Door crash bars
Is that not part of what the side bar of the roll bar/cage is supposed to do? Yes I realize not required in slower cars, but it is recommended!
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Chris Chapman 1969 Chevelle NHRA F-G/SA 1090 |
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10-16-2020, 12:16 AM | #8 |
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Re: Door crash bars
We race a couple slow class cars (N/SA up)
They all have NHRA legal rollbars and 5 pt. Harness. You can be running 100 MPH and get hit by a 150 - 160 MPH Factory car thru the top end! When a fast car was 125 - 130 MPH = I did not worry like I do now!
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John Irving 741 Stock 741 Super Stock Last edited by GTX JOHN; 10-16-2020 at 02:28 PM. |
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10-16-2020, 09:39 AM | #9 |
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Re: Door crash bars
Not safety related but a 70 Cuda SS/DA car I owned had fiberglass crash bars installed to look like the originals. Pretty creative car with some factory help back in the 70's.
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10-16-2020, 11:00 AM | #10 |
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Re: Door crash bars
I've done it several times over the years (before plasma cutters). It takes 2 people, one that is good with a torch and a good helper. Fill a large cooler with ice and water, soak a large heavy bath towel in the cooler, wet the inside of the door. Fold and place the cold soaked towel on the outside of the door skin in the area of the cut, quickly cut from the top down with a torch. If it doesn't completely cut on the first attempt, move to the other door. DO NOT COOL THE WARM PANEL IF FIRST ATTEMPT FAILS, the door may shrink and distort panel. Be patient and restart procedure once the door cools naturally. Try this on a junk door first to see how things work, if you can. The object is to keep the door skin COLD while cutting. I have done this on several finished cars to help trim some weight, to compensate for the owners "Second Cheeseburger Syndrome". Hope this Successful Method helps...MB.
Last edited by MAURICE BLENDHEIM; 10-16-2020 at 11:10 AM. |
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