Spin Control Question

Ron Gusack · 08-13-2012, 10:33 PM

I'm running a 6.50 index class that requires a 9" tire and I have major traction problems leaving the line. My 60's are all over the place and dependent on the track from run to run. I'm running a locked distributor at 37*. Would a super heavy spring with a super light weight kill enough low end power and still have enough advance to help down track? Would 20* @ 2500 and all in by 3500 work? Is a curve like that doable? This is a 427BBC with a 1050 carb, T-400 trans and a 488 gear. I know this isn't stock/super stock, but you guys are the sharpest group on the net so I had to ask. Thanks for any help.

Alan Roehrich · 08-13-2012, 11:13 PM

That should not be harder to hook up than a big block Chevy stocker in CC/SA. Rather than kill power, work on traction.

Tod Lane · 08-14-2012, 09:55 AM

Suspension details?

Ron Gusack · 08-14-2012, 10:27 AM

I think the thing here is the quality of the track prep. I've been on tracks that will not allow me to twist my foot with tearing an ACL. This track feels nothing like that 90% of the time. Many of these guys spray some juice after they leave in order to run the number without spinning. My 60's last Saturday were:
1.494 at 5:50pm
1.430 at 6:31
1.395 at 7:48
1.467 at 8:57
1.399 at 9:59
1.629 at 10:31
The last pass I was in deep, so some of the 1.629 was due to that, but it spun real bad that run.

With all that said, I can believe the car isn't right. In fact, the front is too low or the back is too high to get good weight transfer. I just don't get how it can be so inconsistent if the car is the problem. One run the wheels are up and the next run it feels like my *** is on a vibrator.

The suspension is:
Calvert 90/10's and Santhuff uncut, light springs
Rancho adjustables, mono leaf with sliders and ladder bars

Here's a pass from a year ago when it felt decent. Left at 3,000 I think.

Alan told me a year ago to get rid of the small front tires, but the tall tires will hit the fender bad on turns. This track requires some U turns to get on and off of it. I'm planning to lower the back.
[IMG]

[/IMG]

ron mattson · 08-14-2012, 01:22 PM

I would also make sure your front bushings are good and loose, both afco and global west
make really good ones. You need good suspension action to make it work, the big block
stockers will go 1.28 to 1.35 no problem small blocks can see high 1.30's to low 1.40 sixty
foot times. Also remove any not required weight and get it to the back of the car should help.

Ron Gusack · 08-14-2012, 03:30 PM

I have the stock bushings with the serrations ground off and they are loose for a factory bushing. I have stock control arms and stock ball joints also. The front end is glass and the weight was 1580/1220 with me in it.

rustbucket79 · 08-15-2012, 02:35 AM

One mod that really freed up my front suspension (79 Camaro) was the removal of the jobber ball joints and the installation of the low friction Afco ball joints. I used to be able to pull up on a front fender and release it and it would stay halfway up. With the new joints, there is zero friction keeping the front end up. which guarantees total front end travel on the launch. Track prep is certainly key, but 6" of travel up front for a 9" slick is very helpful to keep it stuck.

I'm not sure if it was your car or not, but on that video there's still a squack as the car launches.

Ron Gusack · 08-15-2012, 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rustbucket79

One mod that really freed up my front suspension (79 Camaro) was the removal of the jobber ball joints and the installation of the low friction Afco ball joints. I used to be able to pull up on a front fender and release it and it would stay halfway up. With the new joints, there is zero friction keeping the front end up. which guarantees total front end travel on the launch. Track prep is certainly key, but 6" of travel up front for a 9" slick is very helpful to keep it stuck.

I'm not sure if it was your car or not, but on that video there's still a squack as the car launches.

Yes, it leaves and a couple feet out there's a chirp. That tells me either it unloaded or the track was not right. I think my car's front suspension is pretty loose, but I'm willing to buy some upper joints. Did you buy longer than OEM joints?

Do you measure travel by measuring from the fender lip to the ground static and then again just before the tires come off the ground?

Mike Pearson · 08-15-2012, 10:48 AM

Ron

By looking at the picture of your car. I would drop the ladder bars down one hole in the front or lower the ride height of the rear suspension to get a little more down angle on the ladder bars in comparison to the rocker panel

OTE=Ron Gusack;340666]I think the thing here is the quality of the track prep. I've been on tracks that will not allow me to twist my foot with tearing an ACL. This track feels nothing like that 90% of the time. Many of these guys spray some juice after they leave in order to run the number without spinning. My 60's last Saturday were:
1.494 at 5:50pm
1.430 at 6:31
1.395 at 7:48
1.467 at 8:57
1.399 at 9:59
1.629 at 10:31
The last pass I was in deep, so some of the 1.629 was due to that, but it spun real bad that run.

With all that said, I can believe the car isn't right. In fact, the front is too low or the back is too high to get good weight transfer. I just don't get how it can be so inconsistent if the car is the problem. One run the wheels are up and the next run it feels like my *** is on a vibrator.

The suspension is:
Calvert 90/10's and Santhuff uncut, light springs
Rancho adjustables, mono leaf with sliders and ladder bars

Here's a pass from a year ago when it felt decent. Left at 3,000 I think.

Alan told me a year ago to get rid of the small front tires, but the tall tires will hit the fender bad on turns. This track requires some U turns to get on and off of it. I'm planning to lower the back.
[IMG]

[/IMG][/QUOTE]

MAURICE BLENDHEIM · 08-15-2012, 11:08 PM

Ron... I watched the video about 18 times starting at the 22-23 second range, seems like the rear tires yell just as the body starts to come down from the wheel stand, the transfer of weight at that point is over. I would suggest MOROSO 47195 front springs (assuming iron heads) and at least a 27 or 28 inch tall front tire. Make sure your control arms move freely (without a coil spring and shock you should be able to grab the spindle and move it up and down through it's full range effortlessly). Have you tried an 850 carburetor? Kinda' thinking a 1050 and 3000 rpm. on the starting line might be adding to the inconsistent 60's also, probably giving away a handful of torque. (just my opinion) GOOD LUCK!

08-13-2012, 10:33 PM	#1
Ron Gusack Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 244 Likes: 1 Liked 7 Times in 6 Posts	Spin Control Question I'm running a 6.50 index class that requires a 9" tire and I have major traction problems leaving the line. My 60's are all over the place and dependent on the track from run to run. I'm running a locked distributor at 37. Would a super heavy spring with a super light weight kill enough low end power and still have enough advance to help down track? Would 20 @ 2500 and all in by 3500 work? Is a curve like that doable? This is a 427BBC with a 1050 carb, T-400 trans and a 488 gear. I know this isn't stock/super stock, but you guys are the sharpest group on the net so I had to ask. Thanks for any help.

08-13-2012, 11:13 PM	#2
Alan Roehrich Veteran Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Murfreesboro TN Posts: 5,095 Likes: 1,542 Liked 1,772 Times in 402 Posts	Re: Spin Control Question That should not be harder to hook up than a big block Chevy stocker in CC/SA. Rather than kill power, work on traction. __________________ Alan Roehrich 212A G/S

08-14-2012, 09:55 AM	#3
Tod Lane Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 152 Likes: 0 Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts	Re: Spin Control Question Suspension details? __________________ Tod Lane Swartz & Lane 66 Nova Swartz & Lane 79 H/CM Trans Am

08-14-2012, 10:27 AM	#4
Ron Gusack Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 244 Likes: 1 Liked 7 Times in 6 Posts	Re: Spin Control Question I think the thing here is the quality of the track prep. I've been on tracks that will not allow me to twist my foot with tearing an ACL. This track feels nothing like that 90% of the time. Many of these guys spray some juice after they leave in order to run the number without spinning. My 60's last Saturday were: 1.494 at 5:50pm 1.430 at 6:31 1.395 at 7:48 1.467 at 8:57 1.399 at 9:59 1.629 at 10:31 The last pass I was in deep, so some of the 1.629 was due to that, but it spun real bad that run. With all that said, I can believe the car isn't right. In fact, the front is too low or the back is too high to get good weight transfer. I just don't get how it can be so inconsistent if the car is the problem. One run the wheels are up and the next run it feels like my *** is on a vibrator. The suspension is: Calvert 90/10's and Santhuff uncut, light springs Rancho adjustables, mono leaf with sliders and ladder bars Here's a pass from a year ago when it felt decent. Left at 3,000 I think. Alan told me a year ago to get rid of the small front tires, but the tall tires will hit the fender bad on turns. This track requires some U turns to get on and off of it. I'm planning to lower the back. [IMG][/IMG]

08-14-2012, 01:22 PM	#5
ron mattson Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: cloquet mn Posts: 464 Likes: 17 Liked 66 Times in 29 Posts	Re: Spin Control Question I would also make sure your front bushings are good and loose, both afco and global west make really good ones. You need good suspension action to make it work, the big block stockers will go 1.28 to 1.35 no problem small blocks can see high 1.30's to low 1.40 sixty foot times. Also remove any not required weight and get it to the back of the car should help. __________________ Ron Mattson 5015 STK

08-14-2012, 03:30 PM	#6
Ron Gusack Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 244 Likes: 1 Liked 7 Times in 6 Posts	Re: Spin Control Question I have the stock bushings with the serrations ground off and they are loose for a factory bushing. I have stock control arms and stock ball joints also. The front end is glass and the weight was 1580/1220 with me in it.

08-15-2012, 02:35 AM	#7
rustbucket79 Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Canada Posts: 45 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Spin Control Question One mod that really freed up my front suspension (79 Camaro) was the removal of the jobber ball joints and the installation of the low friction Afco ball joints. I used to be able to pull up on a front fender and release it and it would stay halfway up. With the new joints, there is zero friction keeping the front end up. which guarantees total front end travel on the launch. Track prep is certainly key, but 6" of travel up front for a 9" slick is very helpful to keep it stuck. I'm not sure if it was your car or not, but on that video there's still a squack as the car launches.

08-15-2012, 10:48 AM	#9
Mike Pearson VIP Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 2,437 Likes: 611 Liked 1,904 Times in 571 Posts	Re: Spin Control Question Ron By looking at the picture of your car. I would drop the ladder bars down one hole in the front or lower the ride height of the rear suspension to get a little more down angle on the ladder bars in comparison to the rocker panel OTE=Ron Gusack;340666]I think the thing here is the quality of the track prep. I've been on tracks that will not allow me to twist my foot with tearing an ACL. This track feels nothing like that 90% of the time. Many of these guys spray some juice after they leave in order to run the number without spinning. My 60's last Saturday were: 1.494 at 5:50pm 1.430 at 6:31 1.395 at 7:48 1.467 at 8:57 1.399 at 9:59 1.629 at 10:31 The last pass I was in deep, so some of the 1.629 was due to that, but it spun real bad that run. With all that said, I can believe the car isn't right. In fact, the front is too low or the back is too high to get good weight transfer. I just don't get how it can be so inconsistent if the car is the problem. One run the wheels are up and the next run it feels like my *** is on a vibrator. The suspension is: Calvert 90/10's and Santhuff uncut, light springs Rancho adjustables, mono leaf with sliders and ladder bars Here's a pass from a year ago when it felt decent. Left at 3,000 I think. Alan told me a year ago to get rid of the small front tires, but the tall tires will hit the fender bad on turns. This track requires some U turns to get on and off of it. I'm planning to lower the back. [IMG][/IMG][/QUOTE] __________________ Mike Pearson 2485 SS

08-15-2012, 11:08 PM	#10
MAURICE BLENDHEIM Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Langley (no igloos), British Columbia, Canada Posts: 567 Likes: 306 Liked 278 Times in 86 Posts	Re: Spin Control Question Ron... I watched the video about 18 times starting at the 22-23 second range, seems like the rear tires yell just as the body starts to come down from the wheel stand, the transfer of weight at that point is over. I would suggest MOROSO 47195 front springs (assuming iron heads) and at least a 27 or 28 inch tall front tire. Make sure your control arms move freely (without a coil spring and shock you should be able to grab the spindle and move it up and down through it's full range effortlessly). Have you tried an 850 carburetor? Kinda' thinking a 1050 and 3000 rpm. on the starting line might be adding to the inconsistent 60's also, probably giving away a handful of torque. (just my opinion) GOOD LUCK!