Manual steering box for a body drag racing – 24 to 1 or 16 t

[CraigG]

Hey Everybody,

72 GTO with stock front suspension new rebuilt completely with 18 x 5 #180 front springs and adjustable Competition engineering front shocks and double adjustable Competition engineering rear shocks.

Four wheel alignment with Drag racing toe in at eighth inch, Mickey Thompson 10.5W Bias drag slicks, adjustable ladder bar suspension.

The car is getting fast enough and is launching hard enough to pull the wheels pretty well and is running in the 6.30s in the eighth and 1.30s in the 60 foot.

The car is wanting to wander and feel the need to oversteer to keep it going straight down the track once the wheels are down. I'm most uncomfortable with the excessive free play at the steering wheel and how the car wants to wander at speed.

I will get a new steering box and wondered which manual steering box for A body drag racing – 24 to 1 or 16 to 1. Which would be best for controlling wheels stands - when they come down and the car recovers and providing less freeplay and reducing wandering at speed.

Thanks Again, Craig

[Woodfin]

Craig, in my experience, a steering that is less sensitive is best. Thus, the 24 to 1 is a good choice. Plus, the steering effort is less while drive in the pits.

And reading your comments, you may have other issues like pump steer, or some worn, loose parts.

I suggest you have an experienced front-end mechanic check the car.

[Henrys Toy]

Originally Posted by Woodfin

Craig, in my experience, a steering that is less sensitive is best. Thus, the 24 to 1 is a good choice. Plus, the steering effort is less while drive in the pits.

And reading your comments, you may have other issues like pump steer, or some worn, loose parts.

I suggest you have an experienced front-end mechanic check the car.

Good morning to all,
A Flaming River steering box will cure the steering box issue. I would like to see the car put on a Four wheel alignment machine and have the front And rear suspension checked over. Also see if a track photographer can take a couple of pictures of the car with the wheels off the ground and be able to view what the front suspension is doing while its off the ground.
Bump Steer can cause some handling issues. Is that car similar to the Chevelle chassis where its considered a "rear steer " ? They have there own fixes but nothing that's impossible. A good front end mechanic will be able to " steer " you in the right direction. Ask some racers in your area even circle track racers who's good at front end alignment.
I hope this helps.

Respectfully,
Henry Kunz 1534 H/SA

[Run to Rund]

You might check the overcenter adjustment--the stud and nut on the top of the box. You can tighten it a bit at a time until there is almost no slop in the steering wheel, but be sure not to overtighten it.
Second, while on the front end alignment machine, plot toe-in vs suspension lift. In my experience with an A body, from the fairly low static height, I can get 4" lift with small increases in toe-in, but more than that results in big increases in toe-in. Therefore, I use the upper snubber height to limit the possible lift.
When the front wheels touch down, you don't want a lot of toe-in.

[Run to Rund]

BTW, I have the quicker stock manual box which gives 5.3 turns lock to lock and it is fine on runs (mid 11 sec/ 118-119 mph car, so slower than yours, of course) but hard to steer when almost stopped on pavement. The slower box gives 6.25 turns lock-to-lock.

[CraigG]

very similar to Chevelle as an GM A body too.

[SDT1DYI]

As mentioned previously, you should check how many degrees of Caster are in the car currently.
If it's very little or Stock specs, put some Additional caster in it before you do anything else and make a pass.
21/2 degrees caster will improve high speed steering.
Then work on the other concerns you have as to how the car handles and drives.

Steve Teeter Stk/SS 620

[CraigG]

Thanks - I have 4 1/2 degrees caster as measured from the 4 wheel alignment.

I will re-check the caster as well.

Appreciated.