Which is it......battery or ballast ???

[Rusty Davenport]

Can a battery be properly secured in the trunk area without being wired for use and not be considered ballast weight ???

[FED 387]

run some cables to "nowhere" problem solved---FED 387

[Rusty Davenport]

Originally Posted by FED 387

run some cables to "nowhere" problem solved---FED 387

I respect and appreciate your answer but its really not "the" answer. What you are saying now will require installation of rear cut off switch doesnt it ??? I just want a battery for weight when the weight box has reached maximum allowed ballast. Does the battery become ballast or is it still considered a battery. It sounds like an Eric Holder-Obama issue but it really isn't. :-)

[FireSale]

If it's not wired, it's ballast and has to be secured by 1/2 inch bolts with welded nuts. That would be through the battery, not a hold down strap. Straps are prohibited. Why not just wire it and have extra juice to go with the extra weight? If they are wired in series with the second battery linked to the first, you don't need a second cut off switch.

EDIT: Is battery A up front or in the trunk?

I'm not a tech.

Dale

[HandOverFist]

I would nix the battery idea and just secure some extra permanent ballast. You can then add/subtract with your adjustable ballast.

[Mike Pearson]

Originally Posted by HandOverFist

I would nix the battery idea and just secure some extra permanent ballast. You can then add/subtract with your adjustable ballast.

X2. There is no real need for two batteries if you are charging it between rounds.

[Bill Harris]

If you wire them in series your going to have 24V and probably a fire somewhere. They need to be in parallel. If you have a battery in the trunk you have to have a master cutoff switch in the positive side of the circuit at the rear of the car so that means two high current cables between the front and rear, one for positive-positive between the batteries and to the switch, and another from the switch to the rest of the electrical system. Negative (aka "ground" side can use the chassis as the conductor on both batteries. It is a it of work but probably worth it in the long run. You can always remove the rear battery to lose weight if needed. Note that both batteries are supposed to be the same size and weight. I seem to recall some disqualifications recently for having a fake (hollow) battery in the front.

[FireSale]

Originally Posted by Bill Harris

If you wire them in series your going to have 24V and probably a fire somewhere. They need to be in parallel. If you have a battery in the trunk you have to have a master cutoff switch in the positive side of the circuit at the rear of the car so that means two high current cables between the front and rear, one for positive-positive between the batteries and to the switch, and another from the switch to the rest of the electrical system. Negative (aka "ground" side can use the chassis as the conductor on both batteries. It is a it of work but probably worth it in the long run. You can always remove the rear battery to lose weight if needed. Note that both batteries are supposed to be the same size and weight. I seem to recall some disqualifications recently for having a fake (hollow) battery in the front.

That's what I meant. Got my words "crossed up"...

+ to +, - to -

Dale