Mustang 5.0 Stocker brake pressure

[Bobby Fazio]

I got the UPR race products manual kit but can't hold the car on the line past 2000 rpms. I bought some good brake pads for the front and still use drums in the back. Not helping and this is a 5000+ stall converter. My old 3000 stall used to hold at 2200 no problem (with power booster). I bled the system and have a very good pedal. Auto, not a stick.

I plan to put a pressure gauge on this week, how many pounds should I be looking for? Could new master cylinder be the culprit?

[Lee Valentine]

Move the pivot up on the pedal where the master cylinder hooks 3/4" and it will hold. Same problem with mine

[87gt50]

A bit off topic, but how was the UPR kit to install?

[Bobby Fazio]

Thanks Lee. The UPR kit was not too bad but definitely not 45 minutes for someone like me. The challenging part was figuring out a line lock schematic because the master cylinders were very different. One had two ports and the other had 3.

[kdanner]

How big is the master cylinder bore? If it's 1-1/8" like a lot of those kits, that's way too big for the factory brakes, something like 7/8"-15/16" normally works well.

[Bobby Fazio]

Yea I think it is larger.. Crapp

[Charlie Laraia]

I am embarrased to say that I have spent the better part of 6 years trying to sort out brake problems on my 3rd Gen Camaro. I started with stock front discs, Wilwood rear discs, and a manual master cylinder from an early 90's S10 pick-up. This didnt work. I then went to Wilwood front discs and a Wilwood master cylinder. I figured since all the components were compatible, I would be all set. Wrong! I then went back to stock front discs, with the Wilwood rear discs, and a 1.032 dia. Strange master cylinder. It worked okay, but I still could not hold the car at line line at anything over 2500. The problen turned out to be pedal ratio and firewall flex. Remember that these cars never came with manual brakes, so the pedal ratio is wrong. I only had about a 4.1 ratio. I redrilled a hole on the pedal and now have about 5.5.1. I also added a simple brace to support the master cylinder, as firewall are very flimsy on these later model cars. I will try to upload a picture.

[Alex Denysenko]

Originally Posted by Bobby Fazio

I got the UPR race products manual kit but can't hold the car on the line past 2000 rpms. I bought some good brake pads for the front and still use drums in the back. Not helping and this is a 5000+ stall converter. My old 3000 stall used to hold at 2200 no problem (with power booster). I bled the system and have a very good pedal. Auto, not a stick.

I plan to put a pressure gauge on this week, how many pounds should I be looking for? Could new master cylinder be the culprit?

my little 5 foot 1 inch beautiful bride Beth pumps hers up to 800 psi on the starting line before engaging the two step and that's with her itty bitty size 6 feet
bobby we have some much better pads for you. same as what we put on Beth's car

[Bobby Fazio]

600lb up front after pumping the hell out of it. Gonna try smaller master cylinder before I start trying to take this brake pedal apart.

[fordteacherguy]

Originally Posted by Bobby Fazio

600lb up front after pumping the hell out of it. Gonna try smaller master cylinder before I start trying to take this brake pedal apart.

Bobby,

I used maximum motorsports manual brake conversion kit ($199 List price) with all stock components on my Super Stocker, brakes just fine and I foot brake it too sometimes. Brake pressures (just went out to garage to check) easy push on pedal 600-800 psi, med push 1200-1400 big push 1700psi+. I love the quality of the components and Its a nice textured pedal.
Here's a link below. I syringe bleed the master backward to remove all air. Stock front t brakes, 10" ranger rears.

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Mu...ions-C244.aspx