Engine break in and seating the rings????

[acme383]

How long does it usually take to seat the rings on a fresh engine? How long before going to a synthetic oil? Is a break in oil necessary for a used roller cam? What kind of oil should I use for break in? I was going to use 15w40 with 2 bottles of zinc. How long should I run it with that oil before switching to the Brad Penn semi-synthetic? Thanks in advance. Dan

[art leong]

I would say that all depends on the type of ring. Best to ask the ring manufacturer.
I just got my thing together started it up. held it at 2000 to 2500 in neutral for 20 minutes.
Let it cool naturally to amient temp, then repeat. I did this 4 times. And I just drained the dino oil out and put in synthetic Going to race this weekend.
This is with a moly top, and a cast second ring and a fine cylinder bore.

My leakdowns have always been 5% or better.

[carl hinkson]

It really depends on how the block was prepped. If it was plate honed with a good hone the rings should seat pretty quick,

When you have cylinder like these I would a\say they will never seat properly
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j459/cegaithe/Problems%20in%20the%20406/2013052295154845_zps4d80e12f.jpg[/IMG][/URL]









A leak down test will tell you if the rings have seated.

[CFMCNC]

Use a break in oil with high as in 1200-1400PPM ZDDP,Manditory with flat tappets and a good idea with rollers ,Use an oil with little or no Molylebdenum as it will impead ring seal on break in and too much moly will cause needle bearings to glide instead of roll making flat spots with high spring pressure aggressive cams.Best way to break in new engine is on dyno with blowby meter.No synthetic till after break in.Bill C.

[ss wannabee]

Carl, think you're saying a good cross-hatch pattern is still recommended...

Doesn't the last photo come close?

[carl hinkson]

Originally Posted by ss wannabee

Carl, think you're saying a good cross-hatch pattern is still recommended...

Doesn't the last photo come close?

Cross hatch appears to be good but the cylinder distortion the ring seal will be poor which will cause blow by issues. You have to have round cylinders once the heads are bolter on, Proper cross hatch and use proper abrasives and a good honing machine is a plus to achieve good ring seal.

Here is a link to look over

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/show...e+plate+honing

[Reed Granrt]

Originally Posted by ss wannabee

Carl, think you're saying a good cross-hatch pattern is still recommended...

Doesn't the last photo come close?

Nope--look at the top of the cylinder where the top rings rides--blow by. Yep there is a cross hatch and it dont look bad but cylinder is out of round. Just my pinion. Got two 400 here now, both supposedly plate hones. Put plates, on made 3 passes and I can see every bolt just like that one. Put doal bore gage in and immediately called the customers. A tu--d is a tu---d no matter how much you polish it(or Hone)
reed

[carl hinkson]

Originally Posted by carl hinkson

It really depends on how the block was prepped. If it was plate honed with a good hone the rings should seat pretty quick,

When you have cylinder like these I would a\say they will never seat properly
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j459/cegaithe/Problems%20in%20the%20406/2013052295154845_zps4d80e12f.jpg[/IMG][/URL]









A leak down test will tell you if the rings have seated.

I don't think any break in oil is going aid in sealing these rings.

[Adger Smith]

400 blocks are very touchy about the hone & plate procedure to get the bores right.
I agree with you Carl. I spend more time on 400 blocks than any other type of block that comes through my shop.
The procedure (if the pictures are right) for the hone job needs to change to get good ring seal. The studs need to be installed with the torque plate instead of bolts. There is a totally diffrent load put on the block with stud than bolts. You can see bore distortion and leakage in the original pictures of the bore. The distortion is all different down about 1/12 to 2 inches. Above that bolt and studs pull on the bore a different way. I can't tell if there is a gasket under the plate. For the best results they need to use the same type gasket that will be used when the engine is assembled. They are wasting time and effort to use a plate with bolts and then add studs when they do the assembly.
Might as well hone it with out a plate installed. You will get about the same results and leakage.

[Reed Granrt]

Originally Posted by Adger Smith

400 blocks are very touchy about the hone & plate procedure to get the bores right.
I agree with you Carl. I spend more time on 400 blocks than any other type of block that comes through my shop.
The procedure (if the pictures are right) for the hone job needs to change to get good ring seal. The studs need to be installed with the torque plate instead of bolts. There is a totally diffrent load put on the block with stud than bolts. You can see bore distortion and leakage in the original pictures of the bore. The distortion is all different down about 1/12 to 2 inches. Above that bolt and studs pull on the bore a different way. I can't tell if there is a gasket under the plate. For the best results they need to use the same type gasket that will be used when the engine is assembled. They are wasting time and effort to use a plate with bolts and then add studs when they do the assembly.
Might as well hone it with out a plate installed. You will get about the same results and leakage.

Adger--Carl
I took a 400 block that was no good. I only worked with the inward cylinder so I could learn. I used bolts on one side and studs on the other sides. Both sides I used a torque plate. Both sides ended up shrinking the bore around the threads. The studs moved the block in more but not as much as I first thought. I was trying to determine which would be better if customer did not know what they were going to do (bolt or studs). As yall said, there was no best. But I was surprised to find that there was not as much difference with or without the gasket. Did yall find the same thing???? but you have to have the torque plate.
reed