|
|
![]() |
#1 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Boulder City, Nevada 89005
Posts: 2,721
Likes: 2,772
Liked 2,438 Times in 689 Posts
|
![]()
I had a upper Ball Joint fail on Demon in Pomona today.
Are there any better quality Ball joints available than the regular Auto parts stuff? I use Energy Bushings in the front end but regular replacement Ball Joints I have 1972 Small hole Drum brake setup. Does anybody make a spacer to us larger disc brake spindles in early A arm/Ball Joint? |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 33
Likes: 64
Liked 11 Times in 6 Posts
|
![]()
doctordiff@gmail.com
(406)883-4772 10-6 Mountain Time, M-F http://www.ebay.com/itm/67-72-Mopar-...99e6c2&vxp=mtr Is this what you are looking for? Tony |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Coraopolis, Pa.
Posts: 172
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
![]()
The old school front end shop fix for this is pretty simple.....all you need to do is with a small hammer take and tap the ball joint flange in the A arm reducing it's diameter to the point where the bottom of the new ball joint still slips in but the threaded portion does not.....screw in the new ball til it seats then put a couple small tack welds on it and you are done......
D L Rambo STK 1300 |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 101
Likes: 89
Liked 62 Times in 17 Posts
|
![]()
I used Moog ball joints on my 68 A-Body that has 73-76 front suspension.
The paperwork Moog supplied said "thread ball joint squarely into control arm until shoulder of ball joint is firmly seated against the arm. If torque required to seat the housing is less than 125 ft-lbs, the control arm must be replaced." I can't remember what mine checked at, but well over 125 ft-lbs. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Henderson, NV
Posts: 583
Likes: 8
Liked 54 Times in 27 Posts
|
![]()
I would rather not weld on heat-treated ball joint housings. I'd look into red Loctite on the threads, and welding a strap across the joint onto the A arm.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Boulder City, Nevada 89005
Posts: 2,721
Likes: 2,772
Liked 2,438 Times in 689 Posts
|
![]()
Thanks for all the Excellent Advise.....I think I will buy the
new reproduction stuff When you consider the lower joints alone are 50 each it makes to package not that bad! Thanks Again!! ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Saint John, NB Canada
Posts: 126
Likes: 346
Liked 80 Times in 28 Posts
|
![]()
I also had a failure with my SS/JA '71 Duster this fall at Epping. Luckily nothing serious came of it.
I was looking at welding them in place but this looks like a good idea. Thanks for the link! |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Parker, CO.
Posts: 728
Likes: 163
Liked 14 Times in 11 Posts
|
![]()
John,
I know you need a fix today..........but later maybe it's time to upgrade to either 73-76 A-body disc brakes with the bigger ball joints or aftermarket disc brakes?
__________________
Phil Saran Parker, Colorado |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 364
Likes: 8
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
|
![]()
Where are they breaking at?
__________________
Nautilus Racing |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Saint John NB Canada
Posts: 560
Likes: 27
Liked 6 Times in 5 Posts
|
![]()
Mark, the above kit looks like a good idea for adapting the '73-'76 -larger/beefier/BUT heavier- knuckles to the early ball joints, but you'd still be using the same early (small) ball joint and control arm. If it's the early ball joint and control arm that is the issue, this kit isn't gonna be of much help.
Afco makes low friction all joints, not sure about 'better quality' as John asked for, but likely are. http://www.afcoracing.com/# Last edited by Todd Boyer; 11-08-2012 at 01:40 PM. Reason: added material |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|