Compressor filter/dryer

[Ronnie Smith Jr]

For background: I have a "standard" double car garage I am in the process of renovating. I figured after 15 years with 2 outlets and a light bulb I should update it and move into at least the 20th century(lol). I have ran 20 amp circuits for the garage and even wired in T8 fluorescent lights on the ceiling. Hung drywall (for the first time) on two walls to finish off the space. Paint is next, then ceiling storage racks to place seasonal items and rarely used items up off the floor. I have updated the garage attic and hung additional insulation to an already insulated attic. I have ran a dedicated 220v line in the attic and plan on relocating the compressor into the attic so I can have more floor space. I will then run a compressor line kit from the compressor through the ceiling and furnish air to various parts of the garage, including an air reel at the rear of the garage to supply air out to the driveway when needed. The compressor is a DeVilbiss, 5hp, 60 gallon, twin cylinder, oil less compressor that I have owned for nearly 17 years.

The question: Since the compressor will be relocated to the attic where drastic humidity and temperature changes occur throughout the 4 seasons in MD, is it necessary to run a compressed air filter or dryer as seen in the links or other types;

http://www.eastwood.com/rti-regulato...0-120-psi.html
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-4-stage-2...m-1-2-npt.html

or continue business as usual? Most of my work comes with using air tools occasionally, pumping up tires mostly, and for the compressed air for an air nozzle. It used to be that oil less compressors did not need the filter/dryer as long as you were not using paint guns. Is this still true?

Your input and insight is greatly appreciated.

[tj310]

I have my compressor outside and plumbed the air intake so it it picks up the dehumidified air inside the climate controlled shop. ---Trevor

[Sean Marconette]

I would suggest installing a blowdown on the bottom of the tank. It could be a timed 120 VAC solenoid, or as simple as a ball valve that you manually open. Moisture will kill the tank, as it will rust from the inside out. With the hot and humid air from the attic, fabricating a source of air to the compressor may also help. In the industrial and commercial HVAC world, with pneumatic controls, oil and water has to be reduced and eliminated. So for your tires and pneumatic tools, I would not spend the money on an air drier. Keep your pneumatic tools oiled, and eliminate condensed moisture in the tank.

I would pipe down from the attic, and install a tee. Out of the bottom of the tee, a 6" or longer nipple, and ball valve. This would be a blowdown to help separate any moisture. On the other opening of the tee, a regulator, and you are set. On the blowdown you can reduce the diameter to 1/4" copper and run it outside. Keep everything from the tank line size until the regulator. So if the tank fitting is 3/4", all piping should be 3/4" until the regulator. Reduce down at the regulator. This will not restrict the air volume.

Sean

[FED 387]

not sure how much pressure you are going to have in the lines BUT do not use galvanized or black pipe ---they cannot handle lotsa pressurelike over 100 + PSI---they were not designed for that---they are for low pressure water and gas piping not air lines--- ya I know everyone uses it but it's not the SAFE way to do it

[Sean Marconette]

What black pipe are you refering too? Water pressure in schedule 40 pipe exceeds 150 PSI 24/7 365. In hospitals, industrial and high rise buildings, if the pumps are located in the lowest point in the building, they have to overcome the height of the building to get to the highest systems. So the lowest points would have the highest pressure. A 300 ft vertical pipe filled with water would have 129.9 PSI at the bottom while static. And more to push the water higher with a pump. We pipe pneumatic air lines, chilled water, hot water and steam for hospitals and industrial in black pipe since 1919. It depends on the application as to what schedule of pipe that is used.

What ever you do NO PVC, or CPVC PLASTIC.

Sean

[FED 387]

SEAN--ditto on Plastic stuff--- I know guys that try to plumb their garages with black or galvanized plumbing/gas pipe and put in excess of 175-200 maybe more pounds thru it ---suicidal!!!!--- I'm no engineer but there are alternatives to do it safely--keyword here safely--- if you feel that galv/black pipe will safely work at the 125-150 pound range fine just don't get carried away with higher pressures--You seem to know so I respect that but some guys have a 60 gallon Sears oilless compresser and others have a big humongeous2 stage 5 HP 150 gallon Ingersall Rand industrial compresser--I tend to lean to the conservative side on things like this--FED387