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#1 |
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I have an Old Super Stock Car and am redoing it for ET Racing. Although it won't be a Super Stock Class Car, I was hoping you guys could give me some pointers, as I trust your opinions.......
I just finished up redoing the rear Aluminum and Steel sheet metal Panels in my 1970 442 Drag Car. (New Steel Tubs, Steel 18ga. Panels around rear seat and 4-link areas & Driveshaft Tunnel areas, Aluminum 18ga. Panels on floor of trunk around fuel cell, etc. My question is concerning the proper "Rivets" to use on these areas?....Steel or Aluminum? I am using 1/8" dia. Rivets. Where should I use Aluminum Rivets and where should Steel Rivets be used?....Or, Do you just go with only "One" Material on the Rivets. Your Comments and suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Harold |
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#2 |
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I wouldn't use aluminum on a race car ..Too much vibration.
A pound or two isn't going to hurt you.
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#3 |
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Steel only .
aluminum rivets will quickly loosen from vibration and then wallow out the hole . Always use the correct length rivet for the thickness of the material and never join aluminum to aluminum without a backing washer if you want it to last. I also use larger diameter head rivets in high stress areas.
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Tom Goldman 1500 SG , 1506 STK |
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#4 |
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Thanks for the great information! You guys know your stuff.
The only real reason I had thought about going with Aluminum Rivets at all, was that I understand they are very resistant to corrosion. I'm not really too concerned about "weight" at this point. I knew Steel Rivets would be stronger, but read that they are the most prone to corrosion, especially if they are underneath the Car and subject to moisture (i.e., from the burn out box, etc.). I was also concerned that in the places where I had a painted Steel Panel mating to an Aluminum Panel, there might be a chance of galvanic corrosion, due to the dis-similar metals??.......Not sure if this is a real issue, or if the Steel Rivets are available in a "coated" or "plated" version to prevent the corrosion issue of a Steel Rivet?.......I may be a little mixed up on my thinking? .......I just don't want to have to "re-do" the entire job down the road, because I used the "wrong" Rivets. Any ideas on the Steel Rivet "corrosion" concerns. Thanks again guys! Harold |
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#6 |
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I use SS rivets but they are hell on rivet guns, rips the jaws out of them. If you are going to use them, buy a good quality rivet gun and assume it will not last forever.
Jim Caughlin SS6019 |
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#7 |
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If you use pop rivets often, this tool is a great investment.
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...?clickkey=5418 |
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#8 |
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THANKS for all of the great information! I really appreciate you guys....The true Racers!
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#9 |
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Dissimilar metals cause electrolysis. You can screw up your project.
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#10 |
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Yes, but this is more true of stainless steel and aluminum than regular carbon steel and aluminum. Water must be in contact with both metals to create this "battery" effect so I don't really think it's an issue with a race car. Using aluminum rivets on the aluminum panels would mean trading the risk of corrosion for the risk of vibration failure.
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Dale Shearon 68 Mustang 6394 |
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