Lifter ? sbc Hydraulic/stocker

[danny waters sr]

As i cannot afford the schubec (spelling?) hyd lifter or any of the other "trick" lifters, what would be a decent lifter for my 283 stocker engine ,399 lift spec cam ?
Had a comp cam lifter come apart on me this weekend and luckily i did not hurt anything..
These lifters are pretty old and a good amount of runs on them, but when freshened engine everything checked and looked good .Guess they are old and weak.( and now broke).....Thanks in advance.......

[Lew Silverman]

Danny,

I bought a set of the 91112 Howard's hydraulic lifters from Competition Specialties. From the catalog.....

The Max Effort high output lifters were designed specifically for higher revving applications. Perfect for race applications which require a hydraulic lifter or high performance street applications that need an extra edge. These lifters can show a noticeable increase of power from 5,000 rpm and up. Important: pre-load must be set at .002 -.004 (warm) to achieve performance levels.

I really haven't had a good opportunity to test these claims, but Howard's has a good reputation.

Lew

[Alex Denysenko]

Danny, you have a PM.

[Dave Ribeiro]

Danny,
You have a PM......

[Jim Woods]

Danny, let me know what you find out, i'm looking also

[brent flynn]

Same here... curious is to what you have to do on break-in on lifters/cam without using schubecks... remove inner springs? I hope when the time comes, i can get some schubecks... whats the difference between CHev and Pontiacs? is it just the Oil band? And will the stocker cam survive without schubecks and how much spring pressure will have to be sacrificed? thanks...Brent

[Alan Roehrich]

The Comp high end hydraulic lifter is okay if you're on a budget. Nitriding the cam helps, it's well worth the investment, especially on a cast core. Trend is supposed to be working on a short travel tool steel hydraulic. Performance Research Inc had one in the works as well. The tool steel lifters are not as expensive as the Smith's.

DO NOT use DLC coated lifters on a cast core camshaft. EVER.

Yes, you need to remove your inner spring for break in. Your open pressure needs to be below 300 for break in, 250 or so is better. A good 50W mineral based oil, with GM EOS additive, and careful break in is a necessity. I use a premium moly paste on the cam and lifters, and as an assembly oil, I use a mixture of Brad Penn 50W, with GM EOS, and the Comp red lube, if you need to to really stick for a while, during storage, you can mix in STP, but you have to really mix the stuff real well, or it does not work. That stuff really sticks to bearings, cams, and lifters. Just do not ever put it on rings, cylinder walls, or piston skirts.

If you are going to run high spring pressures without using the Smith's (Shubeck) style lifter, then you need to keep your idling time to a bare minimum, and keep your idle above 1200 RPM. You're not going to be able to run the real thin modern race oils either, you'll need to be running the 10W/40 at least, if not 20W/50, the thin stuff simply does not generate the hydrodynamic oil film the budget lifters require to survive. At that point, grooving the lifter bores to feed oil directly to the cam and the edge of the lifter is probably necessary.

[BlueOval Ralph]

DO NOT USE any thing with MOLY in it when you have DLC coatings it (moly) will attack the DLC.

Originally Posted by Alan Roehrich

The Comp high end hydraulic lifter is okay if you're on a budget. Nitriding the cam helps, it's well worth the investment, especially on a cast core. Trend is supposed to be working on a short travel tool steel hydraulic. Performance Research Inc had one in the works as well. The tool steel lifters are not as expensive as the Smith's.

DO NOT use DLC coated lifters on a cast core camshaft. EVER.

Yes, you need to remove your inner spring for break in. Your open pressure needs to be below 300 for break in, 250 or so is better. A good 50W mineral based oil, with GM EOS additive, and careful break in is a necessity. I use a premium moly paste on the cam and lifters, and as an assembly oil, I use a mixture of Brad Penn 50W, with GM EOS, and the Comp red lube, if you need to to really stick for a while, during storage, you can mix in STP, but you have to really mix the stuff real well, or it does not work. That stuff really sticks to bearings, cams, and lifters. Just do not ever put it on rings, cylinder walls, or piston skirts.

If you are going to run high spring pressures without using the Smith's (Shubeck) style lifter, then you need to keep your idling time to a bare minimum, and keep your idle above 1200 RPM. You're not going to be able to run the real thin modern race oils either, you'll need to be running the 10W/40 at least, if not 20W/50, the thin stuff simply does not generate the hydrodynamic oil film the budget lifters require to survive. At that point, grooving the lifter bores to feed oil directly to the cam and the edge of the lifter is probably necessary.

[Alan Roehrich]

Originally Posted by BlueOval Ralph

DO NOT USE any thing with MOLY in it when you have DLC coatings it (moly) will attack the DLC.

Interesting, since the vast majority of racing oils now contain a fair amount of molydisulfide additives.

I have had various DLC coating applicators tell me not to use certain motor oils, but they've never said anything about moly disulfide in the oil, and have in fact suggested oils with a fair amount of moly disulfide in them.


That's certainly a subject that requires a lot more investigation. I look at DLC coating as being problematic, at best, it often appears to create almost as many problems as it seems to solve.

[Chris1529]

Originally Posted by Jim Woods

Danny, let me know what you find out, i'm looking also

Jim, why mess with success?