Drag Pak window jumper plug? or mod?

canuk426hemi · 08-20-2010, 02:16 PM

Does anyone have an extra plug or instructions ? to help me raise and lower windows in my Drag Pak car.. I was too busy looking at the car when Roush lowered the windows.
Thanks DT

GUMP · 08-20-2010, 04:30 PM

You were supposed to get that harness with the car. They had to go back into the building to get mine.

Jeff Teuton · 08-20-2010, 08:14 PM

email me @ jefft@southlanddodge.com and tell me what you need.

canuk426hemi · 08-22-2010, 10:21 AM

Thanks guys for the info..
DT

DonatoEng · 08-23-2010, 08:33 PM

Jeff, if you can't help let me know. I should have extra connectors and the pin out.
John

NewHemi · 08-23-2010, 10:45 PM

Funny that this question came up....

I just posted a bit about this on the newhemiracing.blogspot.com build blog....

But first some basic info that I din't post on the blog since I already knew it..

The window motor connector is part of the nightmare they call a wiring harness. The wires for the Can bus which controls the windows are fairly easily separated from the rest of the wires, most of which you really don't need.

The wiring diagram in the Drag Pak Manual, is a simplistic look at what is needed, and your best shot is to ignore the stock wiring harness you got with the car, and wire it, or get it wired as simply as needed. There is really very little, except for head lights, tail lights and door modules connectors that is useful there..

The connector on the window motor has six pins, but the two that need voltage to cause the window to go up opr down are the two pins fartheest from the motor. +12v to one (call it pin 1) , and ground to the other (call it pin 2) causes the window to go in one direction of the other, and ground to pin 1 and +12v to pin 2 causes the window to go the other way. A couple of small alligator clamps on the pins without even a wiring harness, and 12 v battery charger or boost box will give you a quick up or down if you need it.

The can bus wires are only needed if you retain the stock window controllers...And I suggest that you remove the stock window controller for reasons made clear below.

So, here goes... Caveat in advance... my comments are based on taking the car to 5 different tracks and actually running at some of them, needing to have the windows up and down, but these are my opinions, so your mileage may vary...

There are two issues with the windows:

1. The polycarbonate windows are not worth the trouble.. Each time either window is put up, someone needs to push the window as it goes up so that it will go into the upper window molding...

Replace them with factory glass that will only cost you about $200 total, and is really only 5-10 total pounds heavier, and the driver can handle the windows alone.....

If you have a pretty girl handling this task for you, (Mandie handled pushing on our windows at most races), I can understand why you don't want to give that up. So you be the judge...

2. The factory window controls operate by CAN bus communicating amongst the door latch sensing open and close, and the window up/down itself. Even when it gets hooked up right, it still needs to "relearn" how to handle the up/down, down a little, up a little movements...each time you cut main power. You can't legally leave power to your electric windows when your main power is off. And if you power down in the staging lanes, or even waiting to burn out if there is a delay ahaead of you, you again need to "reset" them, or have them relearn.... and it seems to me that a driver ought to have better things on his/her mind at that point.

So, dump the controllers, wiring, connectors, etc (total 3-5 pounds - so you get back a bit of what you gave up with the glass windows...and install a simple circuit with a reversing DPDT ON - OFF - ON toggle switch, which with a bit of careful work - no cutting on the plastic - will fit into the stock switch position, and operate logically e.g. push forward to raise window, the switch springs back to off, and pull it back to put glass down... etc..

Caution: Be sure that you do actually stop pushing or pulling the switch when you goal of up, or down is acheived. But common sense is a big help here, and when the window gets where you want it, you tend to release the switch.

If you use three switches, two in the driver's door and one in the passenger door, you have it all covered, it looks very neat and "stock", and then you don't need to worry about whether the power was just off or not.

I have a part number for the switches I used, and can even provide a simple schematic if anyone cares to have it.

David
The New Hemi Guy

canuk426hemi · 08-24-2010, 09:57 AM

Thanks for the info, How many of you will be racing at Indy?
DT

NewHemi · 08-24-2010, 06:57 PM

We will have the MegaManiac at Indy with a new big bad bullet engine...

The trailer will be parked on Sunday in the holding area. So we should be in pretty early on Monday.

David
The New Hemi Guy

canuk426hemi · 08-24-2010, 07:51 PM

I'll see you guys on Wed/Thurs
DT

DonatoEng · 08-25-2010, 07:24 AM

If you readjust the window track to provide additional preload to the window the poly ones will close.

08-20-2010, 02:16 PM	#1
canuk426hemi Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Belle River Ontario Canada Posts: 34 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Drag Pak window jumper plug? or mod? Does anyone have an extra plug or instructions ? to help me raise and lower windows in my Drag Pak car.. I was too busy looking at the car when Roush lowered the windows. Thanks DT

08-20-2010, 04:30 PM	#2
GUMP VIP Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Shelby, NC Posts: 1,817 Likes: 2,146 Liked 2,326 Times in 546 Posts	Re: Drag Pak window jumper plug? or mod? You were supposed to get that harness with the car. They had to go back into the building to get mine.

08-20-2010, 08:14 PM	#3
Jeff Teuton VIP Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Houma, LA Posts: 2,717 Likes: 2 Liked 325 Times in 50 Posts	Re: Drag Pak window jumper plug? or mod? email me @ jefft@southlanddodge.com and tell me what you need. __________________ Jeff Teuton 4022 STK

08-22-2010, 10:21 AM	#4
canuk426hemi Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Belle River Ontario Canada Posts: 34 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Drag Pak window jumper plug? or mod? Thanks guys for the info.. DT

08-23-2010, 08:33 PM	#5
DonatoEng Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Milford, MI Posts: 147 Likes: 12 Liked 8 Times in 5 Posts	Re: Drag Pak window jumper plug? or mod? Jeff, if you can't help let me know. I should have extra connectors and the pin out. John

08-23-2010, 10:45 PM	#6
NewHemi Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Ohio Posts: 472 Likes: 0 Liked 1 Time in 1 Post	Re: Drag Pak window jumper plug? or mod? Funny that this question came up.... I just posted a bit about this on the newhemiracing.blogspot.com build blog.... But first some basic info that I din't post on the blog since I already knew it.. The window motor connector is part of the nightmare they call a wiring harness. The wires for the Can bus which controls the windows are fairly easily separated from the rest of the wires, most of which you really don't need. The wiring diagram in the Drag Pak Manual, is a simplistic look at what is needed, and your best shot is to ignore the stock wiring harness you got with the car, and wire it, or get it wired as simply as needed. There is really very little, except for head lights, tail lights and door modules connectors that is useful there.. The connector on the window motor has six pins, but the two that need voltage to cause the window to go up opr down are the two pins fartheest from the motor. +12v to one (call it pin 1) , and ground to the other (call it pin 2) causes the window to go in one direction of the other, and ground to pin 1 and +12v to pin 2 causes the window to go the other way. A couple of small alligator clamps on the pins without even a wiring harness, and 12 v battery charger or boost box will give you a quick up or down if you need it. The can bus wires are only needed if you retain the stock window controllers...And I suggest that you remove the stock window controller for reasons made clear below. So, here goes... Caveat in advance... my comments are based on taking the car to 5 different tracks and actually running at some of them, needing to have the windows up and down, but these are my opinions, so your mileage may vary... There are two issues with the windows: 1. The polycarbonate windows are not worth the trouble.. Each time either window is put up, someone needs to push the window as it goes up so that it will go into the upper window molding... Replace them with factory glass that will only cost you about $200 total, and is really only 5-10 total pounds heavier, and the driver can handle the windows alone..... If you have a pretty girl handling this task for you, (Mandie handled pushing on our windows at most races), I can understand why you don't want to give that up. So you be the judge... 2. The factory window controls operate by CAN bus communicating amongst the door latch sensing open and close, and the window up/down itself. Even when it gets hooked up right, it still needs to "relearn" how to handle the up/down, down a little, up a little movements...each time you cut main power. You can't legally leave power to your electric windows when your main power is off. And if you power down in the staging lanes, or even waiting to burn out if there is a delay ahaead of you, you again need to "reset" them, or have them relearn.... and it seems to me that a driver ought to have better things on his/her mind at that point. So, dump the controllers, wiring, connectors, etc (total 3-5 pounds - so you get back a bit of what you gave up with the glass windows...and install a simple circuit with a reversing DPDT ON - OFF - ON toggle switch, which with a bit of careful work - no cutting on the plastic - will fit into the stock switch position, and operate logically e.g. push forward to raise window, the switch springs back to off, and pull it back to put glass down... etc.. Caution: Be sure that you do actually stop pushing or pulling the switch when you goal of up, or down is acheived. But common sense is a big help here, and when the window gets where you want it, you tend to release the switch. If you use three switches, two in the driver's door and one in the passenger door, you have it all covered, it looks very neat and "stock", and then you don't need to worry about whether the power was just off or not. I have a part number for the switches I used, and can even provide a simple schematic if anyone cares to have it. David The New Hemi Guy Last edited by NewHemi; 08-23-2010 at 11:22 PM.

08-24-2010, 09:57 AM	#7
canuk426hemi Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Belle River Ontario Canada Posts: 34 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Drag Pak window jumper plug? or mod? Thanks for the info, How many of you will be racing at Indy? DT

08-24-2010, 06:57 PM	#8
NewHemi Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Ohio Posts: 472 Likes: 0 Liked 1 Time in 1 Post	Re: Drag Pak window jumper plug? or mod? We will have the MegaManiac at Indy with a new big bad bullet engine... The trailer will be parked on Sunday in the holding area. So we should be in pretty early on Monday. David The New Hemi Guy

08-24-2010, 07:51 PM	#9
canuk426hemi Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Belle River Ontario Canada Posts: 34 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Drag Pak window jumper plug? or mod? I'll see you guys on Wed/Thurs DT

08-25-2010, 07:24 AM	#10
DonatoEng Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Milford, MI Posts: 147 Likes: 12 Liked 8 Times in 5 Posts	Re: Drag Pak window jumper plug? or mod? If you readjust the window track to provide additional preload to the window the poly ones will close.