underhood working on the 93 up Camaro/Firebird

[Dragsinger]

Since I am beginning with a clean paper, just how tough is the 93 up F body for under hood work? I am building an IHRA Crate Motor combo, small block with carb. Let me hear from racers who are doing under hood work on these cars.
Thanks

[Jack Matyas]

Seems I've had a few of these..........not too bad to work on but forget about taking the pan off easily.

[Dragsinger]

Jack,

What about engine R & R? What about valve spring changing? What about header & spark plug access?

[Rob Petrie E395]

Originally Posted by Dragsinger

Jack,

What about engine R & R? What about valve spring changing? What about header & spark plug access?

engine r&r is alot easier once all the junk is gone, I can change mine in a couple of hours. For valve spring changes buy the tool from comp cams. It slides down over the rocker studs then you tighten a bolt and it pushes down on both retainers at the same time. Take the keepers out and change both springs at the same time, you will understand better when you see the tool. I have not yet found a good tool for checking valve spring pressure while in the car to to the long cowl overhang. as far as spark plug access its a breeze with headers just get one of the shorty sockets I like the one snap on sells best.

[Michigan Skip]

Originally Posted by Dragsinger

Jack,

What about engine R & R? What about valve spring changing? What about header & spark plug access?

Camaro sites will show threads about a "Happy Hooker" that allows you to pull the engine out the top. As far as spark plug removal, if you have access to a lathe, you can just buy a 5/8 plug socket, cut down about half of the socket, and bore the square drive out so the plug runs thru it. then use a 3/4 wrench,socket to remove the plug. With headers it's not real bad at all. Passenger side is the tightest as far as spark plug and header R&R. Like was mentioned, remove the heater stuff and you'll free up a lot of room on the passenger side. BTW, running a carb, usually people knotch the cowl overhang enough to access a distributor and the carb. You'll find pics of all that stuff over on cz28.com if you search the LT1 section.
Have fun

[mtkawboy]

No cz28.com, found a z28.com , is that it ?

[Michigan Skip]

Originally Posted by mtkawboy

No cz28.com, found a z28.com , is that it ?

http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/

try this one. Sorry!

[Rob Petrie E395]

Bone stock they can be a absolute nightmare for some jobs I think book time is close to 3 hours for plugs and wires. But after you get all the junk out that you take out of a racecar they are pretty easy to work on. I know the factory service manual reads that you have to drop the k-member and take the engine out the bottom, But I have changed many of these engines in both factory street cars and in my racecars with aftermarket k members and I have yet to remove the K member to do so. Like I said before once you get all the junk out they are easy to work on start by taking the heater assembly out it frees up a ton of room to work on the passengers side.

For oil pan removal I use a tool that is designed for working on front wheel drives. It lays across both stut towers and then you hook a chain from it down to a header bolt on each side. After that just remove the engine mount bolts and the bolts holding the K member and pry it down to get enoughf room to slip the pan out. Its a little tight but a whole lot faster than pulling the engine