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Old 03-29-2025, 08:05 AM   #1
Ed McLawhorn Jr.
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Default Harmonic Balancer bolt

Looking for options on turning sbc super stock motor by hand. Pretty much have used a high grade 7/16? fine thread bolt in the past, but with today?s spring pressure, and not wanting to always remove plugs my comfort level using just a bolt is not high. I?m concerned using a long bolt with 5/8? socket head going thru pulley for alternator, crank trigger wheel and balancer is super stressing threads. Is there something out there that?s keyed with large nut to relieve stress on threads? What are others doing to turn by hand? Thanks. Ed
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Old 03-29-2025, 08:26 AM   #2
tavirace
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Default Re: Harmonic Balancer bolt

I recently picked up a Chevy 350 for race engine build , it has a good standard crank but someone in the past had stripped the bolt and redrilled it to 1/2 fine thread. I think it looks ok but machinist didn't like it , felt it would weaken it in that area.
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Old 03-29-2025, 08:45 AM   #3
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Default Re: Harmonic Balancer bolt

That bolt should be torqued somewhere in the 65-70 lb. range - if it takes more than that to turn it over, that would be a bigger issue. Spring pressure really doesn't come into play unless you only have some of the springs installed.
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Old 03-29-2025, 09:25 AM   #4
Kevin Panzino
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Default Re: Harmonic Balancer bolt

I use a stud and 15/16? nut kit that Callie?s sells. The large nut has a bunch of surface area to grip on the balancer. Never had an issue and it?s very nice having a stud and nut for the snoot threads rather than a bolt.
And yes, big springs do make it harder unless you have roller cam bearings, because the cam is down hard on the Babbitt with no hydrodynamic wedge yet while just turning by hand.

Kp

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Old 03-29-2025, 12:46 PM   #5
Ed McLawhorn Jr.
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Default Re: Harmonic Balancer bolt

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Panzino View Post
I use a stud and 15/16? nut kit that Callie?s sells. The large nut has a bunch of surface area to grip on the balancer. Never had an issue and it?s very nice having a stud and nut for the snoot threads rather than a bolt.
And yes, big springs do make it harder unless you have roller cam bearings, because the cam is down hard on the Babbitt with no hydrodynamic wedge yet while just turning by hand.

Kp
Kevin, hadn?t thought about a stud. Yes, I have babbitt bearings and it?s harder to turn.
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Old 03-29-2025, 01:47 PM   #6
Kevin Panzino
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Default Re: Harmonic Balancer bolt

Yes, its a very nice setup. They make them in a bunch of lengths, so you will have to do some measuring to get the correct length. I have heard ARP makes these for Callies, but I am not sure. I can tell you, its not Chinese junk, (speedmaster etc). I've had the same one for probably 15 years now and its as good as new. Black Oxide isnt even barely worn off of the threads.

Link below.

https://www.callies.com/components/stud-kits/


Kp
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Old 03-29-2025, 01:55 PM   #7
Mike Pearson
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Default Re: Harmonic Balancer bolt

I have the ARP balancer bolt. Works fine for turning the engine by hand. 350 seat pressure on my springs. I do have roller cam bearings and that does make hand turning a bit easier but has no real performance gains.
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Old 03-29-2025, 05:46 PM   #8
T Ames
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Default Re: Harmonic Balancer bolt

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed McLawhorn Jr. View Post
Looking for options on turning sbc super stock motor by hand. Pretty much have used a high grade 7/16? fine thread bolt in the past, but with today?s spring pressure, and not wanting to always remove plugs my comfort level using just a bolt is not high. I?m concerned using a long bolt with 5/8? socket head going thru pulley for alternator, crank trigger wheel and balancer is super stressing threads. Is there something out there that?s keyed with large nut to relieve stress on threads? What are others doing to turn by hand? Thanks. Ed
Jones Racing Products makes an aluminum hub that bolts to your balancer and accommodates a large keyed nut (and custom drive pulley - you choose diameter).
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Old 03-31-2025, 09:38 AM   #9
Mike Taylor 3601
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Default Re: Harmonic Balancer bolt

I use the ARP balancer bolt that has the 1/2 drive hole, just stick long 1/2 ratchet in and turn..
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Old 03-31-2025, 01:23 PM   #10
Dirk Olson
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Default Re: Harmonic Balancer bolt

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Originally Posted by pmrphil View Post
That bolt should be torqued somewhere in the 65-70 lb. range - if it takes more than that to turn it over, that would be a bigger issue. Spring pressure really doesn't come into play unless you only have some of the springs installed.
Not sure about that, on a SS or Comp Combo @ 390 on the seat and @ almost a 1000 over the nose it is a struggle to pull the motor over by hand especially with the plugs in. we always bump it with the starter when checking valves. As far as a bolt goes use a ARP bolt, should good to go.
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