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#1 |
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Kingman, NW AZ. in the middle of the longest stretch of Route 66
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putting together a Gen 1 327. block decked .018, heads trued at .019.
the china wall to intake end gap is less than 1/8". 2 ?s then. 1. at what point does the intake gasket side need to be milled? 2. what brand/type of silicon do you use at the china wall, which really works. and how long do you let it set before dropping the intake? thanks Rod in AZ |
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#2 | |
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Glendale, Arizona
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Use Permatex Ultra Grey as a sealant in lieu of a gasket or rubber seal. Wait a few minutes until it gets tacky and place the intake carefully. |
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#3 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2020
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When in doubt, before gluing anything together I put my favorite intake gasket ( with masking tape ) in place and check the alignment of the gasket and bolt holes. If the Intake manifold bolt holes are higher then the bolt holes in the head, then the manifold needs to be milled. I would then remove one gasket and use feeler gauges to get an idea of the amount needed to to get the bolt holes lined up. The difference of thickness between the two clearances should be the approximate of material needed to be removed. Remember the manifold "settles in " while being tightened down so you might have to compensate a little. The Grey Silicone Glue is very good on the China Walls. I hope this helps you out, have a good day. Respectfully, Henry Kunz 1534 H/SA |
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#4 |
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Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Inver Grove Heights, MN
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I use a thin layer of either Ultra Black or Ultra Gray around all water holes on both sides of the gasket, and a thick bead of the same along the end rails of the block.
I've never really waited for the stuff to set up at all before setting the intake on.
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S/ST 51 S/C 53 |
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#5 |
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: NJ
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Any silicone rated at 300 degrees or above. Lay a bead and put the manifold on. Clear will dry quicker then a silicone with color.
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