question on rings ?

[joe cool]

I do not post often but I read everything on here. I read on a post where someone liked to use inexpensive rebuider cast rings and someone who used Moly . Would anyone like to inform me as why and when either would be used. ? Would the bore fiinsh be done any differently? Thanks for the help .

[Tim H]

Rebuilder cast rings are not as particular about cylinder finish and typically break in is fast. I believe Billy Nees posted recently that sometimes he has used rebuilder rings with decent results. IIRC

[GTX JOHN]

I have used Cast Ring in many bracket cars the last 50 years
with good results where optimal seal and performance are really
not that vital. The cast piston and rings have been in my
high 10/low11 Pro Class 440 Valiant for the last 13 years.

[Dave Noll]

Originally Posted by Tim H

Rebuilder cast rings are not as particular about cylinder finish and typically break in is fast. I believe Billy Nees posted recently that sometimes he has used rebuilder rings with decent results. IIRC

Originally Posted by GTX JOHN

I have used Cast Ring in many bracket cars the last 50 years
with good results where optimal seal and performance are really
not that vital. The cast piston and rings have been in my
high 10/low11 Pro Class 440 Valiant for the last 13 years.

Hmmmmmm .................... These give me an idea.

[joe cool]

thanks, fellas, would the finish on the bore be different for the cast rings?

[Billy Nees]

Cast rings are so soft that they don't much care about wall finish. If your combo has a 4" bore, look into "claimer rings".
Understand that there's all sorts of ring packages that will pick your combo up but to get started you can't beat them. And these ain't no "50 runs and done" rings either. If you're just starting on a combo or just building a car that will need a lot of testing laps OR if you're going to (heaven forbid) Bracket Race the car also then check them out.

[engineguy]

The coating is much different on grey cast iron top rings versus Ductile iron top rings.
First of all the Ductile iron (or steel) top rings are much stronger and will provide much more service life than the grey iron rings will. Grey iron and Ductile iron top rings are both available with Moly face material, but the difference is that the gray iron ring has a groove machined in the face and then this groove and surrounding ring face is filled with molten Moly and then finished to size.
Good quality high performance top rings will be Ductile iron with plasma-sprayed Moly, then the ring faces are finished to size and barrel-faced in a manderal. The moly material on the top ring adds some lubricity and will allow the ring to conform more closely to the cylinder finish, but the moly applied to the grey iron ring is prone to being hammered out under severe usage, especially the slightest hint of detonation or pre-ignition.
Save yourself some frustration and purchase good quality rings with sprayed plasma Moly top rings for any high performance application.

[joe cool]

Once again I thank everyone for the help. I have a 57 Chevy that is being assembled to appear like a 1960s Jr. Stocker . I do not have the Talent or Money to field any competitive car so I attend the $10 test and tune night at the local track. I guess being a bracket racer would be a step UP for me.
I read everything I can find on the old days, I am living in the past. It suits me fine ,Thanks again for the help

[Coleydog]

Cool, after awhile you'll be hooked and then the fun starts, big time!
Mike

[Adger Smith]

If you do use a stock ring you might try doing some back cut work to make them lower tension. remember the second ring is there to wipe oil... Just how much oil will be there, esp. if you use tight wall clearances and low viscosity oil. You might also do some work on the oil rail expander and cut drag way back. there are all sorts of ways to make stock rings work well. You can spend the big bucks for the trick rings or do some work and build your own set. Drag out the old fish scales to check drag... Let the fun begin...