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#1 |
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Building a 1970 challenger and working on front suspension, and would appreciate some advice. First the old direct connection books recommend an .840" dia torsion bar, which as far as I can tell isn' t made anymore, or if it is, it's pricy. I'm considering turning down my originals to that diameter. I can't think why that wouldn't work. Thoughts ? Question 2, strut rod bushings. I've read the previous posts on it, and I didn't see a consensus on bushing/bearing. I'm looking for a good working suspension, not the most expensive solution. I do all my own work and can fab most anything. Thanks in advance.
Brian
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Brian Carpenter Stock 1358 |
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#2 |
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Contact Firm Feel
http://www.firmfeel.com/b_body_mopar_torsion_bars.html They make an .820 drag racing torsion bar. If they are a little pricy then look for a 6 cylinder bar for an e-body. I don't think it would be a good idea to turn down a torsion bar. You would ruin the integrity of the properties of the bar itself and it would probably snap under load like coming down from a wheel stand. Just my two cents.
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Fred Palumbo 1025 STK |
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#3 |
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B and E body, same torsion bar...B-body might be easier to find with a slant 6
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#4 |
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Larry Hill posts on here all the time. He has a 70 Cuda that works pretty well. Send him a pm, he might be able to help.
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Greg Hill 4171 STK |
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#5 |
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Thanks all for the tips, I'll PM Larry. Any other ideas, please post or send a PM. thanks
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Brian Carpenter Stock 1358 |
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#6 |
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What combination do you plan to run. Weight will determine how much stored energy you will need to transfer the weight to the rear tires.
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#7 |
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Plan is to run the 383/335
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Brian Carpenter Stock 1358 |
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#8 |
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What class?
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#9 |
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Back in the day Ed Hamburger's team cars had the torsion bar diameter ground down in increments and track tested to fine tune the spring rate. I remember a very generous radius in the hex to bar diameter area when lower class cars were involved. I wouldn't think a 383 combo with todays rear suspension technology would be in this category. I'd be pretty sure with 4 wheel scale numbers and feedback from this forum you could get a stock bar that's pretty close to what you need. Don't forget there's left and right....Reversing the side can end up with a bar snapping at unopportune times. The 3 digit number at the end of the bar is even for right and odd for left. (ie, 774 is right and 775 is left.....780 is right and 781 is left, etc.) The bars are thicker as the paired number increases.
Last edited by Jim B; 08-05-2014 at 08:22 AM. |
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#10 |
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From what I've seen, it's a natural F car. The T bars that came with the car are .940", it's a factory 383 car. The car is being painted now and I want to get the front suspension done and installed on the k-member while that's happening. I guess the bars can wait a while.
Jim, thanks for that info
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Brian Carpenter Stock 1358 Last edited by GallopinGhost; 08-05-2014 at 08:48 AM. |
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