Starting problem

SmBlkFord · 12-08-2013, 12:12 PM

How to do use go about checking amps drawn at the starter ? My relay clicks away sometimes , running 1 12volt and alternator , charging between rounds , last thing I try before using another battery .

Tom Goldman · 12-08-2013, 12:32 PM

Current draw would only be an issue if the starter was actually engaging and trying to turn the engine over .
The starter relay only clicking can be the result of several issues , the most common one I see is voltage drop across battery or starter cable connections , especially ground cables .
Start with fully charging your battery and having it load tested to confirm it is up to par .
Check for voltage drop at various points of both positive and negative sides , starting at the battery posts any working toward the starter .
You should test both at rest and while cranking .
Cable ends that have not been properly crimped and soldered are the worst culprits . Clamped or compression type lugs should be replaced with crimp and solder connections .

SmBlkFord · 12-08-2013, 09:21 PM

All connections are new crimped and soldered , what would be an average drop in voltage when cranking at the starter ? Thanks

Mark Ugrich · 12-08-2013, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SmBlkFord

All connections are new crimped and soldered , what would be an average drop in voltage when cranking at the starter ? Thanks

Usually .1 volt or less on positive cable and .2 volt or less on negative side would be considered acceptable.None of course would be better. Bad Ignition switch or wiring connections can cause a start relay to click also.

SmBlkFord · 12-08-2013, 11:53 PM

Both cylinder heads are grounded to the frame , I was told to ground them back to the battery ? Would 2 batteries solve the problem ? This car has just recently been re wired , but will check again . thanks

Mark Ugrich · 12-09-2013, 12:33 AM

If both heads are grounded to the frame, and the battery negative is grounded to the frame, you should be O.K. Two batteries are not required.

Run to Rund · 12-09-2013, 09:21 AM

Make sure the starter mounting to the block is clean and free of paint. That is the ground for the starter itself!

Bob Shaw · 12-09-2013, 10:43 AM

Have you tried bypassing the neutral start switch?

buzzinhalfdozen · 12-09-2013, 11:00 AM

All good replies, have you checked voltage at the "S" terminal of the relay? Should have B+ there. As mentioned make sure the starter is grounded properly. BTW what is the battery voltage reading during your issue? Personally I've found voltage drop to be the cause with a slow crank, not normally for a no crank but it's worth checking. I like to have a ground from 1 starter bolt to the frame, just to be sure. Good luck. Joe

Tom Goldman · 12-09-2013, 03:06 PM

Like Joe said ,check voltage at the S terminal for drop.
Also dont rule out the starter relay itself.
I've had a hot start problem ,and the volt drop across the solenoid was 3 volts when it got hot ! .
I cut it open to see what the problem and was shocked by how cheap it was .
This was an Echlin, but it was made in China.
I now use a AMETEK /Prestolite metal case solenoid with silver contacts.
The p/n is 15-108 , it can sustain 200 amps continuous ,and 600 amps intermittent.
the photo shows what most Chinese relays look like inside , pretty poorly built for our applications.

12-08-2013, 12:12 PM	#1
SmBlkFord Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Bensonhurst Posts: 43 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Starting problem How to do use go about checking amps drawn at the starter ? My relay clicks away sometimes , running 1 12volt and alternator , charging between rounds , last thing I try before using another battery .

12-08-2013, 12:32 PM	#2
Tom Goldman VIP Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Allentown,PA Posts: 2,473 Likes: 879 Liked 858 Times in 234 Posts	Re: Starting problem Current draw would only be an issue if the starter was actually engaging and trying to turn the engine over . The starter relay only clicking can be the result of several issues , the most common one I see is voltage drop across battery or starter cable connections , especially ground cables . Start with fully charging your battery and having it load tested to confirm it is up to par . Check for voltage drop at various points of both positive and negative sides , starting at the battery posts any working toward the starter . You should test both at rest and while cranking . Cable ends that have not been properly crimped and soldered are the worst culprits . Clamped or compression type lugs should be replaced with crimp and solder connections . __________________ Tom Goldman 1500 SG , 1506 STK

12-08-2013, 09:21 PM	#3
SmBlkFord Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Bensonhurst Posts: 43 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Starting problem All connections are new crimped and soldered , what would be an average drop in voltage when cranking at the starter ? Thanks

12-08-2013, 11:53 PM	#5
SmBlkFord Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Bensonhurst Posts: 43 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Starting problem Both cylinder heads are grounded to the frame , I was told to ground them back to the battery ? Would 2 batteries solve the problem ? This car has just recently been re wired , but will check again . thanks

12-09-2013, 12:33 AM	#6
Mark Ugrich Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: Auburndale,Florida Posts: 220 Likes: 29 Liked 71 Times in 38 Posts	Re: Starting problem If both heads are grounded to the frame, and the battery negative is grounded to the frame, you should be O.K. Two batteries are not required.

12-09-2013, 09:21 AM	#7
Run to Rund Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Henderson, NV Posts: 583 Likes: 8 Liked 54 Times in 27 Posts	Re: Starting problem Make sure the starter mounting to the block is clean and free of paint. That is the ground for the starter itself!

12-09-2013, 10:43 AM	#8
Bob Shaw Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Sedalia, Mo Posts: 435 Likes: 318 Liked 295 Times in 60 Posts	Re: Starting problem Have you tried bypassing the neutral start switch? __________________ Bob Shaw V/SA 515

12-09-2013, 11:00 AM	#9
buzzinhalfdozen Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Bellevue Ohio Posts: 984 Likes: 0 Liked 11 Times in 8 Posts	Re: Starting problem All good replies, have you checked voltage at the "S" terminal of the relay? Should have B+ there. As mentioned make sure the starter is grounded properly. BTW what is the battery voltage reading during your issue? Personally I've found voltage drop to be the cause with a slow crank, not normally for a no crank but it's worth checking. I like to have a ground from 1 starter bolt to the frame, just to be sure. Good luck. Joe __________________ Joe Buchanan SS/BX 3117

12-09-2013, 03:06 PM	#10
Tom Goldman VIP Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Allentown,PA Posts: 2,473 Likes: 879 Liked 858 Times in 234 Posts	Re: Starting problem Like Joe said ,check voltage at the S terminal for drop. Also dont rule out the starter relay itself. I've had a hot start problem ,and the volt drop across the solenoid was 3 volts when it got hot ! . I cut it open to see what the problem and was shocked by how cheap it was . This was an Echlin, but it was made in China. I now use a AMETEK /Prestolite metal case solenoid with silver contacts. The p/n is 15-108 , it can sustain 200 amps continuous ,and 600 amps intermittent. the photo shows what most Chinese relays look like inside , pretty poorly built for our applications. Attached Thumbnails __________________ Tom Goldman 1500 SG , 1506 STK