Oil additive?

[art leong]

I am still wearing out the tips of my valves and the rocker arms.They are sliders not rollers.
I've tried cryo and rem, Even went for brand new rockers and brand new stainless valves.
I'm wondering if oil is my problem? I'm running Mobil one 10w 30 and no additives.
The valves and rockers are not showing heat so they are getting proper oiling.

[Tom Meyer]

Try some zinc additive most new car oils now days have all the zinc removed {plugs up the cats on the new cars]. With your metal to metal contact, it could be your problem. I would get a good race oil and be done with it. Tom

[Signman]

The key would be to find out why Mobil 1 is giving up therefore needing the Zinc.

[Greg Reimer 7376]

Check your valve train geometry. Could be improper push rod length causing an improper contact pattern between the tip of the valve stem and the tip of the rocker. We've had numerous discussions here regarding valve train geometry and push rod length.

[rawhide]

[QUOTE=Greg Reimer 7376;377255]Check your valve train geometry. Could be improper push rod length causing an improper contact pattern between the tip of the valve stem and the tip of the rocker. We've had numerous discussions here regarding valve train geometry and push rod length
Greg,
I believe that Art has an ohc engine.
regards, Roland

[Myron Piatek]

Originally Posted by Signman

The key would be to find out why Mobil 1 is giving up therefore needing the Zinc.

See if you can find a current listing of the ZDDP content of the Mobil 1 you are using. Everybody has so many different oils available for different applications at the same viscosity that it difficult to keep track of what's what.

I use Amsoil which has a variety of high ZDDP (zinc) oils available, including their Dominator, Z-Rod lines and some of their diesel oils.

Although some people do it, I wouldn't feel comfortable playing "chemist" and trying to modify an oil.

PM sent.

[Signman]

Was interested in this topic a while back and found a study on Speed Talk a racer / engineer did. His findings were based on testing about 60 off the shelf and racing oils in a machine that tests the compressive strength of each. If I remember correctly Mobil 1 5/30 was one of the top 5 oils on the list.

The discussion was on break in of flat tappet engines and the actual function of the break in procedure as it being allowing some wear or not. The novice would think that the practice would endeavor to protect surfaces from wear but actually it is about allowing some. The tests showed that break in oils actually had lower compressive strengths therefore allowing wear but had higher zinc to protect from failure.

The most interesting piece of information for myself was that actually zinc is added to protect the metal to metal contact area after the compressive strength of oil has been exceeded.

Another point of view would have argument for this and has but the interesting point to me was that the addition of zinc is actually a last ditch effort to save the parts after oil has failed.

Many flat tappet and roller engines seem to have oil related failures.
Many have none without using high zinc oil. Engine builders without failures in their racing engines consistently freshen to freshen attribute it to geometry and machining tolerance.

The shop that helps me out (Simonek Performance) has a relationship with Jesel. They worked with an endurance team running GM LS engines. New engines were installed and run. Engines were torn down after the race: Roller lifters were found to be heavily worn and near catastrophic failure. Jesel did research and testing with finding the "metal finish" was incorrect. Parts were processed and installed, after the next race inspection found parts were in great condition.

With this it seems that the compressive strength of oils is being exceeded causing metal to metal contact.
It has been known for a long time that adding zinc covers over much of the oil related failure.
But it appears that the cause of oil failure and therefore the need for zinc is machining tolerance, geometry and metal surface finish.

Really interesting stuff!

[Mark Markow]

why not look into D.L.C. coatings. ? this stuff is awesome for low oil situations. wristpins valves , whatever. it mat help.

[jmantle]

Originally Posted by art leong

I am still wearing out the tips of my valves and the rocker arms.They are sliders not rollers.
I've tried cryo and rem, Even went for brand new rockers and brand new stainless valves.
I'm wondering if oil is my problem? I'm running Mobil one 10w 30 and no additives.
The valves and rockers are not showing heat so they are getting proper oiling.

Art, I go along with Tom on this one, you need an oil with good extreme pressure characteristics. Some engine oil manufacturers publish 4 ball wear test results and although these are normally reserved for gear oils, they do apply with the type of wear you are seeing. You might find the following article interesting.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=1584948

Jim Mantle V/SA 6632

[njk53]

We run Mobil 1 with the Comp Cams Zinc Additive