Frame Connectors

[J.R. Haddad]

Is there a GOOD, effective set of bolt on frame connectors, that will work
WITHOUT any welding(trying to somewhat preserve a pretty nice car),
for a 78-81 Camaro. Thanks.

[Logus]

Go here, they will steer you in the right direction.

http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/index.php

[J.R. Haddad]

Guys, with all the Camaro & Firebird racecars out there, I thought
there would have been a lot of ideas on this subject. You're
help is appreciated. Thanks, Jim.

[Ed Wright]

Originally Posted by J.R. Haddad

Guys, with all the Camaro & Firebird racecars out there, I thought
there would have been a lot of ideas on this subject. You're
help is appreciated. Thanks, Jim.

I think wanting to just bolt them in is the deal. I don't think anybody just bolts them in race cars. Maybe some street car guys? I never would.

[Myron Piatek]

That's a popular topic with Mopars as well. While I'm sure it will help, a bolt-in frame connector will never be as effective as a weld-in. Welding the main roll bar hoop with "outriggers" to the frame connectors is also a big help - "triangulation". But obviously that won't work for you either.

I don't know if there any variations of bolt-in that are more effective than the others, but good luck!

[Dana Fitzpatrick]

JR, last year I had MPR put a cage and tie the frames in a 68 Camaro that had just had a rotisserie resto done on it. Mike closed off the rear of the front sub frames by welding on a plate and ran the same size round moly tubing that he built the cage with,off the plate back to the rear sub frame. The bars run an inch or so beneath the stock floorboards and curve up to the bottom of the rear frame.He then tied these to the main hoop. Welded, but easy to undo, if someone wanted to do so. This way might be an option on your year Camaro,also.,

[treessavoy]

Originally Posted by Dana Fitzpatrick

JR, last year I had MPR put a cage and tie the frames in a 68 Camaro that had just had a rotisserie resto done on it. Mike closed off the rear of the front sub frames by welding on a plate and ran the same size round moly tubing that he built the cage with,off the plate back to the rear sub frame. The bars run an inch or so beneath the stock floorboards and curve up to the bottom of the rear frame.He then tied these to the main hoop. Welded, but easy to undo, if someone wanted to do so. This way might be an option on your year Camaro,also.,

This is how Dvorak did all his cars. Weld a plate on the ends of the sub frames and connect with round tubing welded only to the sub frames, not to the floor.

JimR

[Logus]

Some reading

http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/search...archid=4060132

DIYs
http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showth...highlight=SFCs

http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showth...highlight=SFCs

[Doug Domm]

We are looking at the same type of deal as you. A ground up restify of an 81 z28 t-top car. NOT a race car. Just want to tighten the car up more because of the t-tops. We are looking at the Alston ones that are round tube and attach to the side of the subframe and conform to the floor pan making them almost invisible. The Hotchkiss stuff is square tube and attaches in the conventional manner as all the others but conforms to the floor pan and it too is less noticeable. I couldn't say which is more effective as a bolt in but certainly has to be an improvement over nothing. The key here for us is hiding them rather than something hanging down. On my race car they are welded and tied to the main hoop, wouldn't do it any other way on a race car.

[bigsixman]

Go to www.furoracing.com and go to the customers photo gallery and there is a white 79 t- top Z/28 owned by Paul Althoff. This may give you som ideas for your car.