SBC block filling ?

[rod]

i have a 60 over 327 to assemble. i would like to fill [hard block or?] this block to the bottom of the water pump holes. i understand you can put a plastic tube in the water jacket to use the lower block drain.
if anyone has personally done this, would you either explain here in detail or e-mail me.
also what brand is the best?
thanks rod in AZ
hugunin@frontiernet.net

[Alan Roehrich]

Of the commercially available block fillers, Hard Block is by far the best. I use Embeco 885 from White Cap Construction Supply, Darin Morgan of Reher and Morrison suggested it.

Yes, you can buy plastic tubing and stick it up through the drain holes. Some people just drill and tap the side of the block above the block filler, and drain it there.

[nolongerracing]

I hope your not going to fill a "ready to assemble" block.

[rod]

no, this block is still dirty. nothing done yet. however i do know a local guy who had his MoPar block all done and then filled it. sure messed up the cyl. walls.
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i do like the idea of changing the placement of the drain. i thought about that. i wonder if i could braze a 1/2" to 3/8" pipe bushing on the side. the block is not of sufficient thickness to get more than one thread.
thoughts on this?
rod in AZ

[Reed Granrt]

I am very sure that I did not say this, but You may want to consider rust stripping the block inside. If you pour the block with the rust layer that is there, you will set up 2 problems 1: the rust acts as a blockage to heat transfer out of the cylinders 2: You will have poor adhesion by the block filler. Make sure you de-acid with a acid that does not attack the base met. Only use acid that attacks the rust oxide. If you do not find out what that is, PM me and I can tell you (but I didn't tell you)
reed

[Mark Yacavone]

Originally Posted by rod

i have a 60 over 327 to assemble. i would like to fill [hard block or?] this block to the bottom of the water pump holes. i understand you can put a plastic tube in the water jacket to use the lower block drain.
if anyone has personally done this, would you either explain here in detail or e-mail me.
also what brand is the best?
thanks rod in AZ
hugunin@frontiernet.net

If you fill to the bottom of the w/p holes, then you don't need block drains. The water will run right out the front. Just pull the lower hose.

[rod]

that's correct mark. i have not thought all this through. rod

[pmrphil]

filling the block to the WP holes will still require a drain - the filler is not level with the ground, it's at an angle and will leave water in the block at the outside edge. I have drilled and installed 1/8" NPT drain plugs, plenty of room for threads.

[Ed Wright]

Phill is correct. Drill and tap it for new drain plugs. It's thick enough.

[Dwight Southerland]

Originally Posted by Reed Granrt

I am very sure that I did not say this, but You may want to consider rust stripping the block inside. If you pour the block with the rust layer that is there, you will set up 2 problems 1: the rust acts as a blockage to heat transfer out of the cylinders 2: You will have poor adhesion by the block filler. Make sure you de-acid with a acid that does not attack the base met. Only use acid that attacks the rust oxide. If you do not find out what that is, PM me and I can tell you (but I didn't tell you)
reed

Muriatic acid. Wash well and neutralize after.