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#1 |
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Location: shelby, ohio
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Im getting ready to assemble my stocker 455 motor and im new to the the buick motor! Any tips at all would be great but i have a couple quick questions. As far as the oil punp springs go whitch one do i go with the 40 or 60 pounder? and is it possible to and if so where to get a seal to do away with the roap seal! i realy have no idea what im doing with a buick motor, have done many motors never a buick! Im very familiar with stocker racing, and know some of the tricks but not very many! thanks up front for any help.
Mike Dean Dean Family Racing G/SA 3870 |
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#2 |
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Mike,
The AERA www.aera.org has a list of rubber seals to replace rope seals in various engines. They show that the seal from a Ford 200 will work on the 455 Buick. The Fel Pro part number is BS30135 The only thing you need to be careful of when replacing rope seals with rubber type ones is that sometimes the "groove" in the block and cap is not as nicely machined as you would like it to be. Make sure to check the fit of the seal very carefully. Also a good idea to polish the grooved area where the seal rides. You dont need to remove the grooves, but make sure the surface is pretty smooth. Hope this helps,
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Bill Koustenis |
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#3 |
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Dean, The rear main seal from the Ford 6 cyl. CarQuest(Victor) #JV730p works, Also you can replace the front cover rope seal with a National Seal #450446. You have to drive the inner rope seal retention ring out of the front cover to install . As far as oil pump relief springs I've used both the stock and stage1 spring, if you only have the stock spring you can add a round head sheet metal screw (same O.D. as spring) between spring and cover nut to boost oil pressure. TA Performance also make's an adjustable relief valve cover nut so you adjust your oil pressure. I run my oil pressure line out the left rear lifter gallery plug : oil pressure I have is 60 psi cold - 20+psi hot 30w conventional (brake-in runs) at idle and 10lbs less with 20w synthetic (race). JKeihn 3954
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#4 |
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One thing I found on ours was after you cut the heads to min. spec - the dowel pins would bottom out and not allow the head to sit flush. Make sure without the HEAD GASKET the head sits flush on deck. Ours also loved a 3" X-pipe, talk about snappy. Good luck!
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72 cutlass |
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#5 |
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Mike, contact Tom Rix he is on this site and you can send him a PM. He is " THE MAN "
when it comes to Buicks... Luke SS 311 |
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#6 | |
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#7 |
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thanks to every one for the help its been a battle and sure still will be, you are all helping a ton! What about rocker arms? aliminum or steal?
thanks again Mike Dean Dean Family Racing G/SA 3870 |
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Bill Edgeworth 6471 STK |
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#9 |
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I have used both steel and alu none made a differance on the dyno, they all will punch the pushrod end out once in a while
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Joe Demarais SS |
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#10 |
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I use the bop seal in my engines and they are great!!
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