Winter Engine Storage Tips

[Mike Delahanty]

It's that time of year again. Let's hear some ideas, tips, tricks and products for prepping race engines to hibernate through the winter and awake fresh and ready in the spring.

[Ed Fernandez]

I took the engine out of the car for a new heart this year.But normally from year to year the car stays in the trailer and I have a block heater,freeze out plug type,that stays on from Nov-March.I hand turn the crank every two weeks and run the water pump twice monthly also.The engine stays at about 90 degrees.I've never had condensation up under the cover ever.
And it keeps the trailer at about 45 degrees all winter.

[Jody Lang]

Pickle motor with 2 stroke oil/gas mix. Back rockers off. Also some anti freeze for lube and freeze protection.

Draining water doesn't always work. I know of 2 racers that drained water out of their motors only to find a cracked block the next year.

[mannymen]

Jody u don't me personally,but make that three. My 427 had 2 nice cracks in it this spring. Didn't know until after my first pass when testing. Overheated and that was all she wrote.

[Jody Lang]

Both ones i know of were filled blocks. The blocks cracked just above the filler by the back 2 cylinders.

[Doug Blackley]

And pull the carb and headers off to seal up the intake and exhaust ports helps too. Pull out each plug and spray WD-40 or equivalent into each cylinder then put the plugs back in. A little more work put the extra protection is worth it.

[Ed Fernandez]

Almost forgot.Also put a few green tree fresheners in the car.:>):>):>)

[rallye bob]

I have used "the dryer sheet trick" for many years...
Throw several dryer sheets around the interior of the car, to keep unwanted rodents from moving in..... It has worked for me.......

[mannymen]

Jody the block was filled also. Supposedly the water was drained and replaced with anti freeze, but I'm not sure if the anti freeze was put in before the cracks occurred. The garage never drops below 50 degrees, but maybe my temp gauge is bad. Expensive crack which is why one run was made on the car this year

[Greg Barsamian]

A trick I got from that "Bub" guy: pour a small-portion of Marvel Mystery oil down the carb while the engine is running (when you see white smoke) shut the motor off. it will coat the valves, guides, cylinders & machined interior surfaces in the engine to protect it against moisture.

Plug the header collectors, cover the carb, and back off the "lash" on the valves,

If you have a "filled-block" make sure to replace it with 100% anti-freeze, run it thru the motor & water pump. The benifit is it lubricates the water pump, prevents freeze-plugs from rusting & leaking, and in the event that theres any water left in the block it will prevent it from freezing & cracking!

For non-filled blocks remove the factory plugs on the sides of the block & drain the water jackets, then install radiator drain cocks in place of the plugs for convenience in the future!

If left in a garage, leave the car on Jack stands, if left in a trailer remove & place the racing tires & battery into a warm environment, the natural oil in the rubber compound doesn't like the "sustained cold" of winter, (thanks Marvin)
Batteries will last longer in a warmer environment especially with the use of a battery tender

Lastly I was told to "drain-down and relieve the fuel pressure in the fuel lines,
(especially F.I. applications) if left fully pressurized all winter it has an "effect" on the rubber interior of braided fuel lines, and prevents "bleed-down" thru the system!

For vehicles with full interiors, Moth balls on Pie pans a MUST!
Mice hate the smell!