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#1 |
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Red Oak, TX
Posts: 441
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OK, after one weekend of climbing in and out of my car, some changes need to be made... The guy that welded the cage in (me) really should have dropped the door bars down a little lower!
I want to put in a legal swing out door bar kit. Looked at several, and ART or Alston's look nice. I have 1 3/4" x .134" tubes. The Comp. Eng. kit that Jegs and Summit just dosent look as good??? Your thoughts? Who is using what? thanks, Ken |
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#2 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: York, PA
Posts: 241
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I used the Comp Eng. kit. Got it thru Jegs
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Bill Belden Retired Stock Eliminator [emailSTK1100@comcast.net[/email] |
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#3 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Liberty City [East Texas]
Posts: 1,760
Likes: 5
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consider this option; check with Alston Race Cars. They build a spring loaded latch that works great.
https://www.secureway1.com/alston/in...picture_id=133 |
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Southwest Florida
Posts: 263
Likes: 35
Liked 43 Times in 29 Posts
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S&W, it fits likw a glove
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Mark Ruset 2048 STK |
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#5 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Allentown,PA
Posts: 2,474
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I've used all of the above and they are ok, but the best kit I've found is the clevis type offered by Applied Racing Technology in Fla. ......Much stronger than anything I've used before............check it out https://www.appliedracing.net/ .......Tom
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Tom Goldman 1500 SG , 1506 STK |
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Henderson, NV
Posts: 583
Likes: 8
Liked 54 Times in 27 Posts
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I'm using the CE but would recommend it only with reservations. The main issue is the angle it can pivot. you just can't get a lot of "opening" with it. I put the stub on the floor so it went outwards a little at the top. That helped the bar go onto the GM A body frame and still clear the seat. It also gave me more opening angle as about half is going one way from straight, and the other half is going past straight the other way. I carefully contoured the ends to get the most angle I could. Of course, the top clamshell is no problem; all it has to do it go over the stub tube welded to the hoop. I have both clam shells on the removable bar, with Moroso quick release pins.
Some of the kits seem beefy (=heavy?) while the CE is at least doesn't weigh much. Some exotic ones have spring loaded catches, etc. |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Henderson, NV
Posts: 583
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I just looked up the ART kits (I am using their 6 point chrome moly roll bar kit; they custom bent the hoop for a perfect fit in my "unusual" car (Olds F85). Their kits go inside the tubing and the 1.75" OD tube kits are intended for .134" wall tubing, not .083" so be sure whatever kit you get will work with your side bar.
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 703
Likes: 127
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I've used all of the above and they are ok, but the best kit I've found is the clevis type offered by Applied Racing Technology in Fla. ......Much stronger than anything I've used before............check it out https://www.appliedracing.net/ .......Tom
I have a swing out bar in my car with the Applied Technology's clevis ends. It works great, the only thing is that you have to install a stop for the bar when it's closing, also drill some hole in the roll bars so that you can roset weld them. I can also take my whole bar out if I need to with in seconds with the use of push pull pins on both ends. Casey Miles 248H Stock? |
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