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#1 |
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Join Date: Nov 2008
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I have a 68 Mustang that I bracket race and it is VERY hard to push in Neutral. Just looking for suggestions as to what the problem could be. I know you stocker guys are masters about free things up so i figured i would ask here.
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#2 |
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Location: Liberty City [East Texas]
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a few easy checks, with the front wheels raised, do they spin freely?
Next, are the rear brakes completely released? Also, try pushing with the drive shaft removed. These experiments will let you tune in on the problem system. Post your findings after performing the above checks.
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Larry Woodfin 471W |
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#3 |
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Good suggestions by Dragsinger, particularly the one to disconnect the driveshaft.
If your brakes aren't binding and its still hard to push, good chance you have a bent rear axle housing. I've seen this once before and heard of several other cases with the same root cause. Good luck and please do post your findings. |
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#4 |
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If you have front disk brakes you might start there. My 67 had problems with the factory setup.
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#5 |
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If the car has a spool in it, the rear can be bent causing the car to loose ET. That's if all the other standard stuff doesn't work.
Casey Miles 248H |
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#6 |
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If the rear is bent how much ET could it be costing me. I only run 1/8th mile and the car runs 6.80's.
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#7 |
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My old stock eliminator '73 Duster 340 had the stock disc brakes on it
and I never could get them to spin freely. I understand the new aftermarket disc brakes solve this problem. My currant bracket car also has stock disc brakes (all new pieces) and it does spin freely, so I hope I have eliminated that problem area.
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Phil Saran Parker, Colorado |
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#8 |
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You should try pushing some comp cars. I work turnaround at the Houston nats and most of those cars are a )(*^^ to push.
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Next time wave all of your fingers at me. |
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#9 |
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Any car with a spool and big tires is hard to push when the wheels are turned. Most comp cars roll on there own, You have to keep and eye on them so they don't take off on there own.
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No prep is king |
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#10 |
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When you free up any brake issues, and remove the shaft try this. (wheels off...housing on jack stands)
1. place a 3 ft. straight edge (put a mark @ 18 inches) on the axle flange with your mark at the center of the hub. Use a plum-bob to mark a spot on the floor off of each end of your straight edge. Repeat that on the other side, now measure the distance between the front two marks on the floor and compare that to the distance between the back two marks. If your housing is bent, the measurement in between the front two marks will be less that the rear marks. That is an easy first step as apposed to taking the rear out for an alignment bar. 2. Do the straight edge thing on the front also, but this time place the straight edge along the tire (actually with a small spacer, place the straight edge against the wheel because the wheel should have less run-out for a more true measurement) with the car at ride height. Also check the camber with a level at vertical. A toe-in or toe-out issue is most likely your problem. 3. Check all suspension points for worn parts, they will cause you suspension settings to change without notice. 4. Align your front with consideration of ride height under acceleration (down track) |
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