Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Goldman
Your issue is not uncommon amongst EFI cars .
I have a lot of EFI stockers come thru the shop and it is something I've seen happen on several older built cars .
I am defiantly a proponent of dual batteries , the reserve they offer comes in handy when going rounds with minimal time to charge the batteries . ... . Running an alternator is a must with any EFI car to keep the voltage above 12.5 v.
Two areas that are overlooked are grounding and master disconnect switch .
I see many cars with no ground wire between the frame and engine or battery grounds bolted to the sheetmetal floor.
I have seen 2 cars this year with problems due to disconnect switches with high resistance /voltage drop issues. ….look at the amp rating of the most common disconnect switches with 3/8" studs ,most are only rated for 125-150 amps intermittent {starting} current . while the heavy duty ones from Moroso or Flaming river are rated for 1000 amps or higher intermittent current.
One last thought regards the wiring of the ECU itself . Holley in particular is adamant about having the ECU connected directly to the battery with no interruptions.
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Thank you, Tom. This agrees with what the Dragpak owner told me at the Noble divisional.
The master switch is a Longacre 2-terminal (not sure what that would be rebranded from) and the EFI is as Mopar installed it at the factory. Not sure if the disconnect is 52-45760 or 52-45754, but i'm thinking the former.
Both cylinder heads are grounded to studs on the firewall by factory mopar braid, and I added a #10 ground wire between studs and from one stud to the frame. I am not sure if there is a ground strap off the block or not. Battery is grounded to the frame with a #2 wire 18" long, again connectors are crimped and soldered. Battery itself has marine connectors on it.
I plan to completely re-ground the engine bay over winter to follow the procedure we normally have on our cars, with daisy chained #10 ground wires all the way around and back to the battery, redundant to the chassis.
I guess I'll also plan on adding a second battery.
1320, it's the factory late model Denso-style gear reduction starter for all Mopar platforms (not the earlier style that was the size of a watermelon).