Quote:
Originally Posted by J&S Racing
At some point we plan on runing some type of data recorded. I was told it will let you know when the cluctch is needing adjustment before it's felt.
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It is hard to chunk out the cash for a racepak or similar unit. At the very least find and old playback tach or get creative. I have even mounted an i phone in a spot to record the tach and gauges in a car with no playback.The feedback is very helpful. Also, I think there is more clutch damage done in the burnout box then on the track. Make sure you have a spotter to get you in the water properly. Have a hand signal process worked out. Sometimes a newbie stick racer will absolutely roast the clutch in the water box and the tires aren't turning.
Also, don't shift in the waterbox. Some do, but I have bought a lot of basketcase transmissions from racers that went 2-3 boom.
Get a real good understanding of the throwout bearing to finger clearance.
The fingers, levers, really move a lot. Especially when counterweight is involved. It was mentioned, but it is worth mentioning again. If the fingers touch the levers, the clutch will slip. The response of putting more clutch in to counteract the slip really makes it worse. Then the clutch hits too hard at first, then slips as the rpm goes up and the levers hit the throwout bearing. It is really like you were riding the clutch pedal, but you are not.
Don't assume your racing buddies that race automatics can help you. If they raced a stick in the 70's, god bless them, but it is a much better deal now. Find a current or recent stick racer mentor to help you check stuff out. I met one guy that had a brand new A Stick car. All good stuff, big money engine. Could not get down the track! He had asked his probracket racing buddies what tires to get. Their choice? Radials! Stuff like that can make your early experiences challenging.
Racing a stick is waaaaaay more fun than an automatic and the parts are decent. Spend money right on drivetrain up front though. Welcome to stick class racing!