[alejan1975]

here's a few pics of what i hope will turn into a k/s entrant for this spring.

So far, have done the following:

- acquired running stock 5 sp lx w/ weld wheels and some extra parts for 1,000, and sold off about $400 worth of stuff i didn't need (i have the carpet and interior pieces, they were pulled to install the roll bar) She’s purdy!
- added 33 spline axles, spool, 4.56 gears, c clip elim and alum rear cover, rear control arms (adjustable uppers), air bag in right rear spring to the rear. (all parts used from corral.net or craigslist). Question – what should I set pinion angle to to start?
- had Autofab install 8 point chrome moly bar, subframe connectors (tied into roll bar), and reinforce torque boxes.
- got new mt et streets and skinnies mounted/balanced on the weld big n littles
- bought cheapo fiberglass racing seats, racing seat belts - to be installed
- bought nice used set of kooks 1 5/8 long tube headers, used lakewood bellhousing, aluminum SFI flywheel, spec stage 2+ cluthch, BBK shifter (i know i'm playing w/ fire - got some good advice on here about the trans setup being wrong, but i already have it and will be an experiment on how long it lasts!)
- tore down the stock motor out of my 89 coupe that I pulled when I put a motor in it, dropped it off at the machine shop w/ ARP rod bolts, summit sfi balancer, .040 hyper stock replacement pistons (cheapo!) stock repl bearings, rings (low tension were factory installed, sealed power moly coated), main studs for windage tray, and stock heads. Will have them bore/hone, balance, resize rods, fit pistons, grind crank, zero deck, align hone, wash, add cam bearings/freeze plugs. I will assemble
- Heads will only be washed, resurfaced to clean up, guides checked/lined as needed. i may have the intake valves back cut 35 deg, not decided on this may do some more research. I have an old kwik way valve grinding set i picked up and with the help of a very knowledgeable machinist, try my hand at a 3 angle valve job and assembly (my friend can bail me out if I get in over my head).
- sent stock cam off to Mike Jones @ jones cams in NC to see if it can be reground to add 20 or so degrees of duration, and more "dwell". I don't think i'm ready for an all out race cam, i need to get this thing built and on the track before i tackle crazy duration and all the tricks that go along with managing valve train. Also got comp cams limited travel roller lifters, stock replacment valves (not the best but were new in the boxes and couldn't pass up the price), stouter valve springs, retainers and locks. I plan to run stock rocker arms, and will figure out what pushrods to run once i get things assembed. These aren't all out "trick" parts, but should be fine for a moderate cam
- orderded a schuman low vol drag pump, will attempt to add some baffling/scraper to stock pan
- got a used moroso elec water pump and used eibach front drag springs
- will ditch power steering, and block off the fittings for the rack (will keep the ps rack for now)
- will have it dyno tuned w/ an SCT chip – there is a shop about 10 min from me that is a dealer. Ultimately may pursue stand alone system, but for now this is an inexpensive alternative.

once i get the stuff back from the machine shop, i'll provide some updates, pics etc. My hope/plan is to stay within in my budget (hence the MAJOR shortcuts taken with the motor), show lots of detail on this build, get out to a few races next season, and see what can be done w/ a "low dollar" approach. Maybe not a dime rocket, this might be a "quarter rocket"! I don't not have delusions of running 1 sec under the index with this approach. I expect to have my head handed to me on a platter if i have to run heads up. But, i can always get a “real” class motor built later, along with appropriate trans/clutch, etc. From what I have been told, read, etc, a LOT of success is figuring out the car, getting the chassis dialed in, etc. I am a complete novice, so I feel there is much to learn just on the car without worrying about a top notch motor combo. I am also concerned I won’t be consistent enough with the stick, although I’d really like to keep it a manual. Slapping the shifter on a c-4 is booorrrring IMO. I think it will take me a few years to get the car dialed in, experienced actually putting the car down the track, and will have some fun seeing what I can wring out of the combination. If I can run .30 under I think I’d be pretty happy (although if I can just run the index, I’d be happy!).

There are some things I still need which I will continue to keep my eye out for - adj drag shocks, solid motor mount. Thanks for all the support, advice so far – I hope this is an interesting build for those to follow!