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Tom Broome · 09-30-2017, 07:32 PM

Ed, all good points, especially shocks. Good cars deserve good shocks. My modified Camaro, in 1987, had Koni shocks all of the way around, double adjustable in the rear. Big money back then for a guy bolting motors together for a living.
These tires nowadays seem to want the car to do it's thing a little smoother, locking the front end travel down (like the old days) seems to just shock the car when the travel stops. The car pitches forward and gets a big bounce. Good shocks let you control the travel to the limiters without snapping the rotation too fast (allowing more total travel). More total travel lets the car settle more smoothly from a wheelstand without that big bounce.
With a stick, we have to put the clutch into the equation. Got to control the clutch and tire slippage at the hit.
I agree about the control arm bolts and serrations Ed. I'm pretty picky there. For the Camaro (1st gen) Nova front ends I'll green loctite the upper shaft bushing bolts just as the washer begins to drag on the rubber bushings. I want to use full shoulder bolts on the lower pivots and not crush the frame on the bushings when I tighten them. I'll use full metal lock nuts to control how hard I'm squeezing the subframe.

But, I expect that some of the "new style" control arm bushings are probably less finicky than what I'm used to. I don't build as many race cars anymore. I am going to try some pretty soon.

As an aside, if you happen to be putting together a street car (think restoration). I don't recommend tightening the upper and lower control arm pivot bolts (with serrations) until the car is assembled and at ride height. Those serrations can add or subtract some ride height/spring rate.

09-30-2017, 07:32 PM	#5
Tom Broome Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 144 Likes: 80 Liked 88 Times in 43 Posts	Re: Ladder bar leaf spring guys Ed, all good points, especially shocks. Good cars deserve good shocks. My modified Camaro, in 1987, had Koni shocks all of the way around, double adjustable in the rear. Big money back then for a guy bolting motors together for a living. These tires nowadays seem to want the car to do it's thing a little smoother, locking the front end travel down (like the old days) seems to just shock the car when the travel stops. The car pitches forward and gets a big bounce. Good shocks let you control the travel to the limiters without snapping the rotation too fast (allowing more total travel). More total travel lets the car settle more smoothly from a wheelstand without that big bounce. With a stick, we have to put the clutch into the equation. Got to control the clutch and tire slippage at the hit. I agree about the control arm bolts and serrations Ed. I'm pretty picky there. For the Camaro (1st gen) Nova front ends I'll green loctite the upper shaft bushing bolts just as the washer begins to drag on the rubber bushings. I want to use full shoulder bolts on the lower pivots and not crush the frame on the bushings when I tighten them. I'll use full metal lock nuts to control how hard I'm squeezing the subframe. But, I expect that some of the "new style" control arm bushings are probably less finicky than what I'm used to. I don't build as many race cars anymore. I am going to try some pretty soon. As an aside, if you happen to be putting together a street car (think restoration). I don't recommend tightening the upper and lower control arm pivot bolts (with serrations) until the car is assembled and at ride height. Those serrations can add or subtract some ride height/spring rate.