Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Taylor 3601
I had a guy who had me bore 360-390 block .080 and build as 428,as far as I know it's still running and it's been 20 years ago last saw him couple years ago was told me still had it.
I look at it like this they make pistons .060 if you go .080 cylinder is only .010 thinner on each side,and I don't believe .010 difference on cylinder is going to make or break it,if it fails @ .080 it was most likely going to @ .060.
I agree with who ever said to sonic check cylinders, they have been rusting 20 more years since I done that and I may have just been lucky.
Mike Taylor 3601
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I have to say that you got lucky. I have split numerous cylinder walls on my race 428s, that were only .030". Unless its a low stress application, like a Thunderbird cruiser, I want at least .125" sonic check numbers, but after all these years, not a lot of "cherry" thick(ish) wall FE blocks left. HardBlock helps for a race engine, but not much good on a streeter.
Some of the 361-391 FT big truck engines had thick, 406-428 bore capable cylinders, but I think any 40+ year old factory FE block should be sonic checked for any performance use. Also, be sure to inspect the blocks bulkheads between the cam and crank bearing bores. Not uncommon for cracks to develop there, especially on the 2nd and 4th bulkheads. One of my 428blocks cracked badly enough that the #4 cam bearing lost its press fit, and walked foreward enough to uncover the annular oil groove behind the cam bearing. The only clue I had was the oil pressure got low at idle.