CLASS RACER FORUM - View Single Post - 12 bolt R.E. housing question--

SS Engine Guy · 12-15-2012, 04:06 AM

Like others said, I have never seen a 12 bolt failure there that wasn't caused by something else coming apart first. Sounds like you are building a pretty good piece. On a hard leaving car I have the axle tubes replaced with thicker walled tubing to help keep the tubes straight. Even on lower powered stockers the tubes will bend and toe in the rear tires causing drag and drag from the axles not running perfectly straight. Any time I can't pull an axle out by hand or a very slight tap, I find that the tubes are bent and have to be pressed back into shape or replaced. Another good procedure is to replace the bearing caps with Mark Williams caps and good studs. This will require an align hone thru the new caps and housing. Also, if allowed, a good girdle with bolts pressing on the bearing caps is extra insurance. Don't tighten the bolts pressing on the caps tight as this can deform the caps. Snug with wrist pressure is all that is needed.
This may sound excessive, but over the years I have learned to overbuild and then don't worry about it. You will be way ahead later on down the line in terms of money spent and agravation. Also will be a small piece of the puzzle of how to make the car roll easier. ie: free up available hp.

12-15-2012, 04:06 AM	#4
SS Engine Guy Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: usa Posts: 256 Likes: 1 Liked 1 Time in 1 Post	Re: 12 bolt R.E. housing question-- Like others said, I have never seen a 12 bolt failure there that wasn't caused by something else coming apart first. Sounds like you are building a pretty good piece. On a hard leaving car I have the axle tubes replaced with thicker walled tubing to help keep the tubes straight. Even on lower powered stockers the tubes will bend and toe in the rear tires causing drag and drag from the axles not running perfectly straight. Any time I can't pull an axle out by hand or a very slight tap, I find that the tubes are bent and have to be pressed back into shape or replaced. Another good procedure is to replace the bearing caps with Mark Williams caps and good studs. This will require an align hone thru the new caps and housing. Also, if allowed, a good girdle with bolts pressing on the bearing caps is extra insurance. Don't tighten the bolts pressing on the caps tight as this can deform the caps. Snug with wrist pressure is all that is needed. This may sound excessive, but over the years I have learned to overbuild and then don't worry about it. You will be way ahead later on down the line in terms of money spent and agravation. Also will be a small piece of the puzzle of how to make the car roll easier. ie: free up available hp.