Quote:
Originally Posted by MAURICE BLENDHEIM
Ron... The coil spring is the most important factor in your problem, what you have doesn't appear to be holding up the front end of the car. Honestly, stock coil springs would probably net you better results. It is easier to change coil springs then the trick bushings and cheaper. You don't necessarily need the trick bushings yet, use what you have in the car for now. What you have can be tweaked to get you going. For starters we need to know what have you done so far. How tight are the bolts that retain your upper and lower control arms? Are the rubber snubbers still in the upper control arms? In the rear, how tight are your leaf spring bolts? Like Alan mentioned it appears the rear is bound up. Do the leaf springs have centering pins? If so, do the lower rear end retaining plates have slots? How much clearance in the sliders?(you did say leaf spring, ladder bars and slider) My smaller carburetor comment refers to torque, heck I'd even try a good 780 vacuum. One more question, 1/4 or 1/8th mile? We will probably start asking engine questions soon. Just trying to help.
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I'm willing to do whatever it takes to make the car work on marginal tracks. I started looking at Global's control arms and then I thought about calling Kenny Keir to see what it would cost to make it right. The Santhuffs and Calverts made it leave better and the front end is much looser.
The a-arm bolts are loose and the snubbers are gone. There are no pins in the springs. The bolts in the front and rear of the springs are tight. The rear of the spring has the box, but there's a worn spot in the bottom plate of the box that the bolt bushing rides on. So it has to overcome that indent. I hope you understand what I'm saying. This is an old SRD set-up. Coil overs are on the list as soon as my guy can get me in. I've never measured the clearance in the slider. Are you talking about the gap between the spring and the plate that rides against the spring? I race both 1/8 and 1/4, but the 9" tire thing is 1/8.