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Adger Smith · 06-19-2011, 07:04 AM

Ben,
I second the thought that the wear on the outside of the mains is because of crank taper. Might have a lot polished off the center of the journals and the OS be tight. Check the size very carefully from one side of the journal to the other. Don't just let someone throw a Mic. in the middle of the journal to check the size. I also agree with the tight timing chain causing the front cam bearing wear. With .003 clearance it should have had a small oil wedge between the bearing and cam. When you re-assemble it put an indicator on the cam sprocket and see if it is running true. It might have had a load, un- load situation taking up the clearance. You can also put the indicator in a vertical (CL of cam to CL of crank) position and pry up on the cam gear and read the amount of strech the chain allows for bearing clearance. I've experienced tight chain sets before. I would also provide an oil path to the front of the block/cam gear/torrington bearing area. There are several ways to do it and they all work. Like: use a triangle file and slot the block under the cam bearing.... or use a very small round file and slot the bearing from the hole out to the back of the cam gear/bearing. (my preferred method) or drill a small .060 hole into the face of the block just below the bearing, intersecting the oil hole. From the picture the drain magnet isn't much of a problem to me. It looks like ring fuzzies from new engine break in.....
If the oil had that Golden metal look check the retainer/spring interface. New parts, either spring or retainer or both could have a fit problem and be wearing into one another. Spring dampers have a nasty habit of cutting up retainers and spring shims. You might have had some valve float to aggrivate a situation like that. Soft spring shims can make metal, too. I have found that dual interference springs generate a surprising amount of metalic (gold) on initial break in. You got some good input on this thread, most of the problem areas are covered.
I know it is human nature to look for or expect the worst first, but it might be something as small as dist. gear wear.....causing the concerns.
Good luck with your build and I hope you get comfortable with it.

06-19-2011, 07:04 AM	#22
Adger Smith VIP Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Texarkana Ark/TX Posts: 2,446 Likes: 575 Liked 880 Times in 311 Posts	Re: Metal in the Oil Ben, I second the thought that the wear on the outside of the mains is because of crank taper. Might have a lot polished off the center of the journals and the OS be tight. Check the size very carefully from one side of the journal to the other. Don't just let someone throw a Mic. in the middle of the journal to check the size. I also agree with the tight timing chain causing the front cam bearing wear. With .003 clearance it should have had a small oil wedge between the bearing and cam. When you re-assemble it put an indicator on the cam sprocket and see if it is running true. It might have had a load, un- load situation taking up the clearance. You can also put the indicator in a vertical (CL of cam to CL of crank) position and pry up on the cam gear and read the amount of strech the chain allows for bearing clearance. I've experienced tight chain sets before. I would also provide an oil path to the front of the block/cam gear/torrington bearing area. There are several ways to do it and they all work. Like: use a triangle file and slot the block under the cam bearing.... or use a very small round file and slot the bearing from the hole out to the back of the cam gear/bearing. (my preferred method) or drill a small .060 hole into the face of the block just below the bearing, intersecting the oil hole. From the picture the drain magnet isn't much of a problem to me. It looks like ring fuzzies from new engine break in..... If the oil had that Golden metal look check the retainer/spring interface. New parts, either spring or retainer or both could have a fit problem and be wearing into one another. Spring dampers have a nasty habit of cutting up retainers and spring shims. You might have had some valve float to aggrivate a situation like that. Soft spring shims can make metal, too. I have found that dual interference springs generate a surprising amount of metalic (gold) on initial break in. You got some good input on this thread, most of the problem areas are covered. I know it is human nature to look for or expect the worst first, but it might be something as small as dist. gear wear.....causing the concerns. Good luck with your build and I hope you get comfortable with it. __________________ Adger Smith (Former SS)