[Mark Yacavone]

Originally Posted by tgriffith

how dnagerous would it be to have a spool in the front????

on the cam being advanced??? I wouldnt think so even though I cant say for sure. I bought the long block from napa in 2001,,,,,,at the time, they installed the cam for me. The used a stock timing chain (or belt) and stock gears. They didnt advance it. Im not sure but Im thinking if they got it off a tooth, it wouldnt run rite at all....OR would it????? it sure does have the symptoms of being too far advanced

I tryed different computers thinking it might have been something there but same result on the downtrack ET not matching with the short time ET. The cam itself is one of those "out of the box" compu cams that crane used to sell with an advertised .423 lift.......and a mega 204 @ .050 in duration (LOL). There has never been any issues with idling,,starting, and appears stock except its loud,,,,,so this is the reason Im thinking its not off a tooth

I know with MSD, if you wire the crank trigger backward, it will be 10 degrees off or so but it will run fine,,,,,,,because some of the wiring had been hacked up when the digital MSD was installed,,,, I reverse the trigger wires........It fired and went "BANG",,,,,so we wont do that again

Ed,,you are correct about running it in bracket mode,,,My only issue with that is,,,,if I slow it down too much,,,,I will run out of dial in since its so slow down track.....and even though Bristol isnt the best hookin gplace in the world,,,,it was fairly good with the new guys at the helm AND the car wasnt making the HP it will at rockingham.......Rockingham is marginal at best, when the pro stuff is over,,,,,so if one gets lucky and makes it to 3 rd or so,,,its going to be problems...but at the rock, the car has ran 14.9`s so I would have some et I could kill

What about those lower A arms being bent out of shape????? I think I have come up with a way to add a traction bar using the lower motor mount (dog bone) and using the motor roll to shove the front end down when it launches,,,I had also seen somewhere (maybe on a neon) a type of ladder bar with 2 points connected to the A-arm and one point connected under the radiator,,,,,it didnt seem to actaully cause the car to hook but only served to keep the A-arm from twisting. A friend of mine today told me that he thought earlier cavaliers might have had a steel lower A arm...wasnt sure it would fit..


anyone know how much leaway Ihra/Nhra will tolerate with FWDers???

Trust me ,you don't want a spool in a FWD car. Very hard to steer ,except straight ahead. It''ll break your arm if you're not holding onto the wheel tight and you turn sharp .Especially on gravel of grass.

That mild cam explains alot. That's why it wants to run with less gear (tall tires) on it . You're making it hard to hook too, with that torque down low.
Tire pressure : We always ran the 173 Cimarrons with very low t/p. 8-9 lbs. Only way they'd hook .Everybody thought I was getting a flat all the time, with all that frontal weight.
I'd get rid of the alum a-arms . They're not helping you any .
Pretty sure those Caddys had steel lowers. They were 87-88 pilot cars. Maybe Jim Wahl will comfirm that.
Not done. Tired of typing tonight .You got a long way to go ,bud.