mopar valve adjustment
 

going from non-adjustable rockers to adjustable on my 400 stocker hydraulic cam, using hydraulic until new motor is ready, how do i adjust them? back in the days (small block chevy) ran engine backed off until they clicked then tighten one turn,
put a pushrod thru stamped steel rocker

Re: mopar valve adjustment
 

Been awhile, but on hydraulics, we always just went to zero lash. Preload beyond that made it possible for the lifters to "pump up" at high RPM and prevent the valve from fully closing.

Might be a hillbilly way to do it, but we would run the valve adjustment just like a mechanical cam, but would loosen the adjustment a touch until it had clearance, then spin the pushrod with fingers while slowly tightening the adjustment. When the pushrod got snug, stop. Done.

Like I said, been awhile.

Re: mopar valve adjustment
 

Turn the adjuster until they are zero lash, and then add 1/2 to 3/4 turn.

Re: mopar valve adjustment
 

You could pull the lifters out with the heads on, shim the lifter to very limited or no travel reinstall and set as solids. That is if you have stock heads.

Re: mopar valve adjustment
 

First know how much preload works best for your application. Second divide the number of threads per inch of your adjuster into 1. that tells you how much preload per turn off adjuster. as an example if you have a 20 tpi adjuster that's .050" per turn. if you want .012" preload that would be 1/4 turn past zero lash. hope this helps. Dan

Re: mopar valve adjustment
 

First thing I would ask is what height solid are you using to check the cam lift with?

Re: mopar valve adjustment
 

I would do Zero lash plus 1/4 for that set up.

Re: mopar valve adjustment
 

Years ago 440 with hyd cam in a bracket car. After making a lot of adjustments and a lot of runs, zero lash then 1/4 turn was best.