Lower & Upper roller control arm bushings
 

Anybody had any good (or bad) experiences with roller needle bearing control arm bushings. I see the lowers listed: Summit brand & Allstar Performance. I don't see a listing for uppers.

Also, I read somewhere that needle bearings may not be the answer as the travel on a control arm is limited & wear will be only in that contact area increasing friction over time.

Should I go with the Del Alum set? Any thoughts? Trying to put the Nova back together as she had a little lean to her last time out!

Re: Lower & Upper roller control arm bushings
 

Boss,

after several buildups with different brands of control arm bushings when building the Super 10 I returned to the basics and installed factory style bushings.

With the upper bushings I removed the serrations then tightened the retaining nuts to remove all slack with a very slight pre-load. The upper arms move smoothly with VERY slight resistance.

With the Super 10 the lower bushings do not have serrations. [your Nova may be different] Whichever way yours are mounted the goal is change the attaching hardware as need to just remove slack yet have a smooth movement with little resistance.

In my opinion, because of advancements with tires and track prep the above suggestion is completely acceptable.

Re: Lower & Upper roller control arm bushings
 

I have just put allstar lower roller bushings,bushing goes in a-arm then rollers are inside of it,then there 2 inner bushing/race that goes inside of bearings and has thrust/needle bearing in each end bushing that goes inside of rollers appears to be hardened.
I couldn't come with up roller uppers,so I made some,took steel uppers from allstar drilled them and reamed to 13/16 (.812) for roller bearing and ground cross shafts in crank grinder from 11/16 down to 5/8 to fit ID of bearings,and cut a recessed place on each end for thrust bearings.
I think if it wore it would take a long time,they move very little compared to what the bearings are designed to do,they are made for shaft to rotate in,take a alternator as example the shaft spins thousands of rpm for 1000's of miles.
I am more concerned of busting needles or flat spotting shaft with hard landing.
I had the solid allstars before .
Mike Taylor 3601

Re: Lower & Upper roller control arm bushings
 

I have always used Moog replacement bushings when ever possible as the rubber in the bushing will give when altering the control arm to increase caster.
As said in previous quote reduce upper bushing by grinding off ends so it is slightly shorter than cross shaft. lube and tighten bolts and Lock them.GM's lower arms remove bolts lube and replace with thick washers both sides run down bolt and nut to just no play and will swing some what freely . Weld washers to cross members so holes do not wear in member. These bushings will give good service and will last for years in a race car and also on the street . It goes without saying much cheeper!!

JACK ARNEW SUSPENSION SYSTEMS

Re: Lower & Upper roller control arm bushings
 

I noticed that Competition Engineering still offers a polyurethane upper control-arm bushing (C3166) for most GM models. Would this be an adequate replacement for the stock rubber item? It sure would make removal of the serrations easier and the poly would tend to deteriorate less!

Thank you for sharing the installation tips, Jack!!

Lew

Re: Lower & Upper roller control arm bushings
 

Lew,

this is just my thought, I have no facts or testing to say one way or the other although some hard core test data would be nice. It is simply what seems reasonable to me

In my opinion, when considering the front suspension of a factory frame, factory a arm style set up a small amount of deflection or cushion may be beneficial. It might give just enough cushion to smooth out a landing and not upset the rear suspension.

And of course I completely understand the importance of shocks and also understand that shock control is primary.

I have a go to chassis and shock friend I will pose this idea to him and will post his thoughts.

Re: Lower & Upper roller control arm bushings
 

I have installed the solid bushings in the lower arms; they have an inner and outer part. Often the holes in the arms aren't in perfect alignment and you have to use a die grinder to open the holes in the arms to get them perfect, using a 1/2" rod through the steel bushings to check. Then you have to weld the outer sleeves to the arms, and re-check. Plan on taking 1-2 days to get it right. Hence Jack Arnew's recommendation to use rubber bushings because they will deflect to compensate for poor alignment of the holes in the factory A arms.

Re: Lower & Upper roller control arm bushings
 

This is a good post here....its all about precise control, that roller bushings give you,if you take the time to do it right, and...its what you need for $1200 dollar shocks. If you are using rubber you don't need $1200 dollar shocks.


Now, somebody will say they did this with that, but the fact of the matter is, its precision control you are after...otherwise prostocks wouldn't be blowing 18 grand on rear shocks


It all boils down too....what "level" do you want to take your project

Re: Lower & Upper roller control arm bushings
 

Bill, was that(somebody will say) coment aimed at me? If not great, but if so please remember 95% of my work is and was done for those who could not afford to run a car with high dollar equiptment. For those who could we used the best available at the time.

Re: Lower & Upper roller control arm bushings
 

See the June 1976 Super Stock & Drag Illustrated, p. 56 for a write-up of Jack Arnew's innovative and effective work, back when suspension science was very young.