283 chevy ll
Was curious if any one has run this combination with any luck. And is this combination worth messing with?
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Re: 283 chevy ll
Tim Nicholson,Robin Brown, Gene Bichlmeier and others have had a bit of success with this combination.
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Re: 283 chevy ll
Ed,
I think he is talking about Stock, not SS. |
Re: 283 chevy ll
Sorry about that. Several stockers out there as well.
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Re: 283 chevy ll
Jim Woods and Phil Combs have done VERY well with the small-motored Chevy II. Danny Waters Sr. also has a wealth of knowledge on that combination, having been very successful with his two-door post.
Could be a lot of fun! Lew |
Re: 283 chevy ll
Ed you always have them stick cars on your mind, there are a few auto SS cars that ran OK too.Just given you a bad time. As far as stock there is a chevelle that runs very well with a 283. I am sure a chevy II could run good also. Marty can not remember his last name had a very fast K/SA chevy II back in the day he was from Div 4. Tom
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Re: 283 chevy ll
So what should someone do in my situation who can't just throw a lot of money at a car all at once? Do I buy a complete 283 and start from there or would it be best to buy in pieces at time thats in the nhra parts acceptance list? I know all intakes and heads are not created equal so would be best to buy multiple items and fine tune which ones I gain the most HP?
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Re: 283 chevy ll
Start with what you can afford and the type of vehicle that inspires you. You are the one that has to be happy with your choice. Chevy II's are my soft spot since that was my first race car. If a Chevy II is the car for you, do you already have it or are you looking for one? If you have it, do a complete analysis of the car and decide what the best bang for your buck is going to net you the most increase on the track? You can start small with a motor that runs the index then save and build one from scratch with all the best pieces and your opinion of the best engine builder (there are plenty of very good builders). For me, when I first started rehabbing my car, I went with the driveline change over. I netted 40 lbs in rotating mass and 80-100 in overall weight. Started at the front suspension, rotors, brakes then moved to an aluminum driveshaft, then to a rollerized transmission, then from rear drums/dana rearend to a Ford 9" and rotors/brakes and all lightened internals. I picked up .25 in et.
Whatever you do, in my opinion, deal with the hand you are dealt with and save for the right pieces and do it once. No matter how long it may take you. While you are enjoying yourself, you will be able to get out there and mix it up. This will also give you an opportunity to meet some of the great racers and you will learn a great deal by osmosis more than you may have initially planned. Best of luck |
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