anti roll question
 

i just installed new 4 links, with lower bars x welded together, also a antiroll bar on the rear, should I set the preload with the 4 link and then hook up the antiroll? also do I need to scale the car to set the 4 links? on my ness car all I ever did was let the rear hang and take out the slack in the upper pass. bar, that's how ness told me to set it, this car I built back in 2001 and I think I had it on scales with the driver in the seat, but I don't recall for sure. any help out there?

Re: anti roll question
 

I always set preload with the antiroll unhooked. Also I adjust with chassis on wheels and with weight in. Someday I'm going to compare with the hanging method.

Re: anti roll question
 

Chuck, the hanging method works on a perfectly square and straight chassis if the rear is also perfectly straight and square .
Also ,don't forget the Pro cars adjust corner weights with weight pucks bolted all over the car, and launch straightness with rear steer .
I do all my chassis with the car on the scales,make sure the rear is square in the chassis ,driver weight in and anti roll bar disconnected .
Reconnect the anti roll bar in a neutral condition after preload is set .
Super Gas racing this year or going brackets ?

Re: anti roll question
 

Tom, Have a new to me 96 Beretta and will run SS/AS. Hope to make Gainsville. Question: I realize that it's not always possible but in a perfect world would you want equal weight on each front as well as the back?

Re: anti roll question
 

Chester,
ANYTIME a 4-link adjustment is made the ant-roll should be unhooked. At least on the passenger side. If I have an issue with the car leaving or going down the track straight I'll do the following:


I have a set of stands that I set the car up on just like it is sitting on the starting line going to make a hit. Here is my ritual I go thru:


I check the "ride height" on the rear with the Anti-Roll hooked up.
Then I'll check the "ride height" on the rear with the anti-roll unhooked. (To see if it was in a bind)
I put the scales under all four tires, full of fuel (No Driver). Right Down settings for RF, LF, RR, LR
With scales under all four tires, full of fuel with Driver. Right down settings for RF, LF, RR, LR
Then with scales still under all four tires full of fuel, Driver, Front & Rear air pressure set and shock settings set. I loosen the jam nuts on the "top" four link bars only. Both bars should turn back and forth free. Then put a little pre-load in the passenger side by "shorting the bar."
When all done I hook the anti-roll back up. The bolts should slide freely thru the turn buckle ends.


Now I have a reference/starting point if something doesn't seem right to fall back on. Like when the springs start to get weak and the ride height changes.


Good Luck.......

Re: anti roll question
 

thanks guys, I thought the anti roll had to be disconnected, I will borrow a set of scales from the dirt guys and set it up, should the rear weights be the same or one side more than the other?? thanks chuck

Re: anti roll question
 

Chester,
With the anti-roll hooked up and the car sitting on the scales with "Fuel" and "No Driver" the rear settings should be within a few pounds of each other. For example: mine was LR/512lbs. RR/515lbs.


With the anti-roll hooked up sitting on the scales with "Fuel" and "Driver"
mine was: LR/644lbs RR/550lbs

Re: anti roll question
 

now I am confused, did you set the weight with the antiroll hooked up or unhooked?

Re: anti roll question
 

tom, I will be racing super gas starting with the gators with the old guys crew, I will see you at maple grove, i'll send tim over for cocktails, chuck

Re: anti roll question
 

Chester,
Hooked up like I stated.