Re: 79 Mustang project U/SA
I haven't done it myself, but have read about it on Thecorral.net. It sounds like it's a b**** on a Fox. Maybe search over there to see if someone has a good method?
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Re: 79 Mustang project U/SA
Thanks Mark and BS 428. I didn't realize that it's that easy to get the car under weight. I think I will leave them for last. I'm in strip it down mode and figured i'd pull them out too. I weigh 165 so making it light might be easier than I thought.
Mark, thanks for the help too. I for sure will call you as i progress in the project so I don't make any costly mistakes. |
Re: 79 Mustang project U/SA
Robbie, you know you will be racing that fast Maverick in the Graham stable.
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Re: 79 Mustang project U/SA
Remove unneeded wiring, all sound deadener, carpet insulation, and anything not needed. You will be surprised what that adds up to. It's all in the details, and adds up quickly. Get the weight off the front so you can put it where you need it in the back. Find an aluminum front bumper.
There is mastic that glues the door skin to the crash bars, so don't just start prying and pulling on it, otherwise you will do a number on the door skin. My 78 Zephyr, the crash bar had to be cut in half to get it out of the doors A cut-off wheel is best, and whatever you do protect/remove the glass or you will be replacing it. The grinding embers will pit the glass. |
Re: 79 Mustang project U/SA
Drop one of the factory seats on a scale and compare the difference with a racing seat. Whole bunch right there.
If you come heads up to Brian Seaburg's U/SA Comet at a Lucas Oil Series race, get up on the wheel. Dale |
Re: 79 Mustang project U/SA
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Re: 79 Mustang project U/SA
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Re: 79 Mustang project U/SA
I recently removed the door braces on my son's Mustang. They weigh about 30 lbs together. The doors in the early fox bodies have large braces in them. The ones from about 90 on have much smaller bars.
Each bar had to be cut in three places. One cut in the middle and a cut on each end. The only tool that worked for me was a cut off tool. I used both a small straight cutter and 90 degree cutter to get it done. I was going to try a plasma cutter but it just didn't seem like a good idea. I put an 1/8" thick, 8" X 8" sheet of of aluminum between the bar and the door skin where I made the cuts in order to avoid hitting the door skin. Once you see the aluminum stop cutting. You need to remove just about everything in the door to make the cuts and get the bars out. It's a pretty big job but well worth it. The doors close so much easier and the weight can be moved to a better location. Use long sleeves and wear gloves. |
Re: 79 Mustang project U/SA
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Now that I think about it , I probably used the slice and dice method on it. Yes, it was a SOB Just left a little bit of a tab on the ends.I didn't want to get into the jambs on that style door. The above described method works better on the 2nd Gen Firebirds and Camaros |
Re: 79 Mustang project U/SA
Mark, I look toward to racing BJ. She is a cool lady. Seeburg is a badass. I hope to get my car as fast as theirs. I'll take my time and get it right the first time.
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