Re: Wheel Studs
 

Never more than 90# with aluminum wheels! Never less than 75#. 110 is too much stress on the studs. Jim


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Re: Wheel Studs
 

I think its possible to over torque wheels that have an inner spacer. After they have been over torqued they begin to rattle when off the car or when being rotated or even rotate where the universal bolt pattern will not align up then if the shank or shoulder does not protrude thru the wheel and the inner spacer has been crushed due to over torqueing when it gets torqued then the nut bottoms out on the shoulder and it may be a little loose allowing it to snap them off ! I like mine torqued at 85ft.lbs for the rear and 65ft.lbs on the fronts also helps keep the rotors from warping from over doing it

Re: Wheel Studs
 

https://www.weldwheels.com/wp-conten...ifications.pdf
https://arpinstructions.com/generaltorque.html
ARP says 125 ft. lbs. Weld says 85-95 ft. lbs.

Re: Wheel Studs
 

First you have to find out if they're braking or shearing off. The clamping effect between wheel and axel flange has more to do with the wheel staying on. If it slips, gone. A 6D common nail has about a 2000 lb shear force, I would think the 1/2 stud would be stronger.

Re: Wheel Studs
 

Thought that Moser Studs were higher quality than Stock Studs.
Hence tightening to 110# for better clamping force.
Plus advice from another racer that did the same.

When the left wheel came off the Studs were supposed to be at 85#.
From Coleydogs post....Breaking or Shearing?
They look like they broke, one had fallen out without me knowing it.
Plus did not check them in a couple months, which I do now often !!!!!!!
So that would indicate they were loose. Correct?

Bought new Studs and Axles from Moser as the Splines were even bent.

Adding one more experience.
After installing the new axles and studs they were Clamped to 85#.
At the track checked them and they were loose and reset them to 85#.

Made a few Q runs and they were loose again.
This time clamped them to 110#.
Checked after the race they were at 110#

This last week pulled all the wheels off and examined the.
Discovered some of the Steel Washers were deformed.
Cleaned the surface of the holes in the wheels and replaced all the Washers and few Lug Nuts.
Never had Steel Washers deform like these did.

Going to contact ARP to learn what Steel Washers they have.
Think I need a better quality.

Are Studs from ARP, Moser and others are made by different Manufacturers?

Dan

Re: Wheel Studs
 

Not that it applies in this case but I'm just saying that over my years of working drag racing I have found that when I've been called to the starting line to look at broken wheel studs, a lot of times there is a wheel spacer involved.

Re: Wheel Studs
 

Dan , what size wheel studs are you using , are they pressed in or threaded in the axle flange ? It is interesting that you had them loosen up , sounds like something was not seated properly .


I have always used Mark Williams 5/8" drive studs , which has an 11/16" shank which fits snuggly into the lug holes in my Weld Wheels . Never have had a problem with that setup . If you buy new axles , I would recommend switching to that setup .

Re: Wheel Studs
 

Thanks
YEAH agree about the seating.
When the new ones were pressed in they appeared well seated.

At the track checked them with a torque wrench to 85#.
The torque wrenched clicked but did not feel seated the Lug Nut kept moving.

So tightened to 110# where the Lug Nut stopped moving.
Loosened and retightened, it likes 110#.

Dan

D

Re: Wheel Studs
 

https://i.imgur.com/xi93WCy.jpg

3880 lbs. 60 foots 1.30s, best of 1.28. Moser axles and 1/2" studs, torqued to 100 lbs. never broke a stud, thousands of passes and still in service.

Re: Wheel Studs
 

check your torque wrench better yet use another one to compare to yours ---somethings not right---We tighten/torque our Weld Aluma Star wheels on a Comp Eliminator dragster to 50 pounds check em after every pass never had one loosen up so far