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alejan1975 11-27-2013 11:10 AM

89 mustang stock elim project
 
3 Attachment(s)
here's a few pics of what i hope will turn into a k/s entrant for this spring.

So far, have done the following:

- acquired running stock 5 sp lx w/ weld wheels and some extra parts for 1,000, and sold off about $400 worth of stuff i didn't need (i have the carpet and interior pieces, they were pulled to install the roll bar) She’s purdy!
- added 33 spline axles, spool, 4.56 gears, c clip elim and alum rear cover, rear control arms (adjustable uppers), air bag in right rear spring to the rear. (all parts used from corral.net or craigslist). Question – what should I set pinion angle to to start?
- had Autofab install 8 point chrome moly bar, subframe connectors (tied into roll bar), and reinforce torque boxes.
- got new mt et streets and skinnies mounted/balanced on the weld big n littles
- bought cheapo fiberglass racing seats, racing seat belts - to be installed
- bought nice used set of kooks 1 5/8 long tube headers, used lakewood bellhousing, aluminum SFI flywheel, spec stage 2+ cluthch, BBK shifter (i know i'm playing w/ fire - got some good advice on here about the trans setup being wrong, but i already have it and will be an experiment on how long it lasts!)
- tore down the stock motor out of my 89 coupe that I pulled when I put a motor in it, dropped it off at the machine shop w/ ARP rod bolts, summit sfi balancer, .040 hyper stock replacement pistons (cheapo!) stock repl bearings, rings (low tension were factory installed, sealed power moly coated), main studs for windage tray, and stock heads. Will have them bore/hone, balance, resize rods, fit pistons, grind crank, zero deck, align hone, wash, add cam bearings/freeze plugs. I will assemble
- Heads will only be washed, resurfaced to clean up, guides checked/lined as needed. i may have the intake valves back cut 35 deg, not decided on this may do some more research. I have an old kwik way valve grinding set i picked up and with the help of a very knowledgeable machinist, try my hand at a 3 angle valve job and assembly (my friend can bail me out if I get in over my head).
- sent stock cam off to Mike Jones @ jones cams in NC to see if it can be reground to add 20 or so degrees of duration, and more "dwell". I don't think i'm ready for an all out race cam, i need to get this thing built and on the track before i tackle crazy duration and all the tricks that go along with managing valve train. Also got comp cams limited travel roller lifters, stock replacment valves (not the best but were new in the boxes and couldn't pass up the price), stouter valve springs, retainers and locks. I plan to run stock rocker arms, and will figure out what pushrods to run once i get things assembed. These aren't all out "trick" parts, but should be fine for a moderate cam
- orderded a schuman low vol drag pump, will attempt to add some baffling/scraper to stock pan
- got a used moroso elec water pump and used eibach front drag springs
- will ditch power steering, and block off the fittings for the rack (will keep the ps rack for now)
- will have it dyno tuned w/ an SCT chip – there is a shop about 10 min from me that is a dealer. Ultimately may pursue stand alone system, but for now this is an inexpensive alternative.

once i get the stuff back from the machine shop, i'll provide some updates, pics etc. My hope/plan is to stay within in my budget (hence the MAJOR shortcuts taken with the motor), show lots of detail on this build, get out to a few races next season, and see what can be done w/ a "low dollar" approach. Maybe not a dime rocket, this might be a "quarter rocket"! I don't not have delusions of running 1 sec under the index with this approach. I expect to have my head handed to me on a platter if i have to run heads up. But, i can always get a “real” class motor built later, along with appropriate trans/clutch, etc. From what I have been told, read, etc, a LOT of success is figuring out the car, getting the chassis dialed in, etc. I am a complete novice, so I feel there is much to learn just on the car without worrying about a top notch motor combo. I am also concerned I won’t be consistent enough with the stick, although I’d really like to keep it a manual. Slapping the shifter on a c-4 is booorrrring IMO. I think it will take me a few years to get the car dialed in, experienced actually putting the car down the track, and will have some fun seeing what I can wring out of the combination. If I can run .30 under I think I’d be pretty happy (although if I can just run the index, I’d be happy!).

There are some things I still need which I will continue to keep my eye out for - adj drag shocks, solid motor mount. Thanks for all the support, advice so far – I hope this is an interesting build for those to follow!

JHeath 11-27-2013 02:47 PM

Re: 89 mustang stock elim project
 
MPG Racing Heads has a great windage tray ,for $100. should not be a problem running the index, I used a chip with the stock Ford ECU, mine ran the index on the third run, I had never run down the track in a stocker before, and ran 1 second+ under the index several years later, I also had the $100 hypereutectic pistons. you might need more gear, 5.14, I have Moroso solid motor mounts, they are cheap. you don't need a $10,000 engine, I had about $ 2,500 in mine, my big expense was a 9" moser rearend, and a new Jerico transmission, probably the best investment. Have fun, sounds like you have a good start!!

black88coupe 11-29-2013 12:55 PM

Re: 89 mustang stock elim project
 
Cool.

alejan1975 12-26-2013 08:12 AM

Re: 89 mustang stock elim project
 
Minor updates

Side polished the stock rods and am dropping them off today at the shop and picking up the heads to start the valve job.

Stock cam would only allow for about 10 more deg of duration at 50, so i am going to have a new one ground. I am currently working w ed at FTI to get one set up.

MICROMACHINE72 12-26-2013 10:37 AM

Re: 89 mustang stock elim project
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by alejan1975 (Post 410418)
here's a few pics of what i hope will turn into a k/s entrant for this spring.

So far, have done the following:

- acquired running stock 5 sp lx w/ weld wheels and some extra parts for 1,000, and sold off about $400 worth of stuff i didn't need (i have the carpet and interior pieces, they were pulled to install the roll bar) She’s purdy!
- added 33 spline axles, spool, 4.56 gears, c clip elim and alum rear cover, rear control arms (adjustable uppers), air bag in right rear spring to the rear. (all parts used from corral.net or craigslist). Question – what should I set pinion angle to to start?
- had Autofab install 8 point chrome moly bar, subframe connectors (tied into roll bar), and reinforce torque boxes.
- got new mt et streets and skinnies mounted/balanced on the weld big n littles
- bought cheapo fiberglass racing seats, racing seat belts - to be installed
- bought nice used set of kooks 1 5/8 long tube headers, used lakewood bellhousing, aluminum SFI flywheel, spec stage 2+ cluthch, BBK shifter (i know i'm playing w/ fire - got some good advice on here about the trans setup being wrong, but i already have it and will be an experiment on how long it lasts!)
- tore down the stock motor out of my 89 coupe that I pulled when I put a motor in it, dropped it off at the machine shop w/ ARP rod bolts, summit sfi balancer, .040 hyper stock replacement pistons (cheapo!) stock repl bearings, rings (low tension were factory installed, sealed power moly coated), main studs for windage tray, and stock heads. Will have them bore/hone, balance, resize rods, fit pistons, grind crank, zero deck, align hone, wash, add cam bearings/freeze plugs. I will assemble
- Heads will only be washed, resurfaced to clean up, guides checked/lined as needed. i may have the intake valves back cut 35 deg, not decided on this may do some more research. I have an old kwik way valve grinding set i picked up and with the help of a very knowledgeable machinist, try my hand at a 3 angle valve job and assembly (my friend can bail me out if I get in over my head).
- sent stock cam off to Mike Jones @ jones cams in NC to see if it can be reground to add 20 or so degrees of duration, and more "dwell". I don't think i'm ready for an all out race cam, i need to get this thing built and on the track before i tackle crazy duration and all the tricks that go along with managing valve train. Also got comp cams limited travel roller lifters, stock replacment valves (not the best but were new in the boxes and couldn't pass up the price), stouter valve springs, retainers and locks. I plan to run stock rocker arms, and will figure out what pushrods to run once i get things assembed. These aren't all out "trick" parts, but should be fine for a moderate cam
- orderded a schuman low vol drag pump, will attempt to add some baffling/scraper to stock pan
- got a used moroso elec water pump and used eibach front drag springs
- will ditch power steering, and block off the fittings for the rack (will keep the ps rack for now)
- will have it dyno tuned w/ an SCT chip – there is a shop about 10 min from me that is a dealer. Ultimately may pursue stand alone system, but for now this is an inexpensive alternative.

once i get the stuff back from the machine shop, i'll provide some updates, pics etc. My hope/plan is to stay within in my budget (hence the MAJOR shortcuts taken with the motor), show lots of detail on this build, get out to a few races next season, and see what can be done w/ a "low dollar" approach. Maybe not a dime rocket, this might be a "quarter rocket"! I don't not have delusions of running 1 sec under the index with this approach. I expect to have my head handed to me on a platter if i have to run heads up. But, i can always get a “real” class motor built later, along with appropriate trans/clutch, etc. From what I have been told, read, etc, a LOT of success is figuring out the car, getting the chassis dialed in, etc. I am a complete novice, so I feel there is much to learn just on the car without worrying about a top notch motor combo. I am also concerned I won’t be consistent enough with the stick, although I’d really like to keep it a manual. Slapping the shifter on a c-4 is booorrrring IMO. I think it will take me a few years to get the car dialed in, experienced actually putting the car down the track, and will have some fun seeing what I can wring out of the combination. If I can run .30 under I think I’d be pretty happy (although if I can just run the index, I’d be happy!).

There are some things I still need which I will continue to keep my eye out for - adj drag shocks, solid motor mount. Thanks for all the support, advice so far – I hope this is an interesting build for those to follow!

THIS IS WHAT ITS ALL ABOUT!! Don'y worry about hammering the index, just get it to the track! with a REAL class car racer!, not a bracket bomb. You will have time for upgraded once together. I'm doing a low buck build for Comp, and with the slight mention over on the yellowbullet I get hammered everytime with naysayers.. People get different things out of drag racing, I like to try and go as fast as I can with the least amount of money spent. Good luck, keep the pictures coming!

black88coupe 12-26-2013 09:18 PM

Re: 89 mustang stock elim project
 
Keep the updates coming.

alejan1975 01-16-2014 08:27 AM

Re: 89 mustang stock elim project
 
Finally got down to the shop and picked up block crank etc.

Ill start on the shortblock this weekend. First order of business is to grind the oil drainback at the front/rear (may have to drill the rear, i dont recall if sbf have a rear drainback) and pipe the drain back holes over the cam in the lifter valley. Stef's fabrication has a kit for $29 but im going to try some threaded brass tube frome the 'depot.

I also got a flowtech induction cam (ed curtis) coming my way, should have that in about a week and then i can try my hand at degreeing the cam and checking ptv. Will post pics

black88coupe 01-16-2014 08:30 AM

Re: 89 mustang stock elim project
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by alejan1975 (Post 416654)
Finally got down to the shop and picked up block crank etc.

Ill start on the shortblock this weekend. First order of business is to grind the oil drainback at the front/rear (may have to drill the rear, i dont recall if sbf have a rear drainback) and pipe the drain back holes over the cam in the lifter valley. Stef's fabrication has a kit for $29 but im going to try some threaded brass tube frome the 'depot.

I also got a flowtech induction cam (ed curtis) coming my way, should have that in about a week and then i can try my hand at degreeing the cam and checking ptv. Will post pics

Cool. Keep the updates coming.

alejan1975 08-25-2014 08:44 AM

Re: 89 mustang stock elim project
 
OK so the "get ready for spring" definitely did not happen.

Busy life takes priority!

I started work on the shortblock and didn't get very far. Opened up the oil drain back channels at the front/rear of the block and added vents to the 3 holes that would have oil drain on the rotating assembly. Crank is in, cam installed/degreed and that's it!

My plan was to try and do the valve job on the heads myself w/ an old grinder set i picked up, but i don't have the time to invest. I'm going to take them to the local machine shop and get a good 3 angle job. Nothing too trick right now, i'm not worried about the heads too much until i get the thing down the track, dialed in etc. I know it won't be super competitive, but baby steps . . .

Also, i'm second guessing using the stock valves i bought. i got a good price on a new set, but they are so dang heavy and the different retainer location on the exhaust valve will just complicate things.

Any recommendations for what valves to run for E7TE heads? stock size is 1.78/1.46. I think if i get a better set of valves and back cut the intake, even without putting a bunch of time/money into the heads, i shoudl improve the flow some based on what i've read.

already have springs that i think will work.

Thanks in advance

black88coupe 08-25-2014 09:29 AM

Re: 89 mustang stock elim project
 
Some progress is still progress.


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