Crankcase Ventilation
Any thoughts on this subject for Stock Eliminator applications?
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Ya, put a dry sump, and vac pump on. Just don't get caught. No, seriously, someone who actually knows the answer will chime in.
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Good ring and valve cover seal with a sealed crankcase breather, and its worth it on my car. There is a thread about vacuum check valves, that is worth searching for.
Sean |
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I can only pull a vacuum in the crankcase by using manifold vacuum. When things are right, I can get about 6" of negative pressure. If I just use the headers, I get no movement on my vacuum gauge. I recently discovered that my oil separator breathers weren't getting all the oil out of the vacuum line to the carb. I could see some oil residue on the carb gasket under the carb (see picture 2). I'm hoping a vacuum pump style separator will cure the problem. I use the old Jenkins/Moroso pan evac system. Does anybody still use this system?
[IMG]http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...eCapitol-1.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...sket4500-1.jpg[/IMG] |
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I've seen engines with a shop rag taped around the valve cover breather tube. What's up with that?
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I played around with a vacuum balance system on my stocker back
in 1975. Bill Jenkins was experimenting with it and the guys at SRD who were neighbors ,were selling some of the components to make systems. I still have some of the origional parts that I got from SRD. I ran a vbs for a short time ,but I never really gave it a good test.In theory they are supposed to improve H.P. ed |
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How about the use of PCV Valves?
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I doubt you would have gotten away with anything more than an OEM type PCV back then.. Unless you were just using a Stocker for testing purposes ? |
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What I'm personally attempting to gain and learn from my initial question, having very limited knowledge of the subject in general and it's application to Stock Eliminator rules is, what is the current set up for the heavy hitters?
Also why does N.H.R.A. not allow valve cover breathers to be evacuated into the header collectors in Stock? |
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I doubt you would still pull any vacuum at the end of a run though.That's why you need the header hoses and valves. Of course,..not legal in Stock |
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Thanks Mark.
I found this image; http://www.aa1car.com/library/pcv.gif My primary interest in this subject it to maximize ring seal and of course not waste any of those valuable shop rags! |
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I wanted to try an old style road draft tube. Never got a chance. Of course it wouldn't do anything until you're moving, but I thought it might be worth experimenting a bit.
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how about a brake booster check valve for vacuum and ventilation???
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other openings closed up and on the other side I used an anti backfire flapper valve that I got from SRD, there were no openings in the system and the crankcase would hold a good vacuum at idle . I did not and could not run hoses to the headers. This may not have been an optimum system,but I did experiment with it a couple of times. From what I remember I didnt see any improvement ,that didnt mean it didnt have potential though. ed |
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I tried the hoses to the collectors at the track (not this car) when that stuff first came out. Never found a thing. I tried a slick little check valve with two PVC valves and a closed crank case on the dyno. Pulled good vacuum to about 5000, then it went away. No pressure as high as we were pulling it then (7700) but no power gain. Finally went to one PVC on one side, and a breather on the other. It's a legal vacuum leak, so you may as well use the highest flowing PVC valve you can find. LOL No more condensation in the valve covers that time of the year either. Didn't back-to-back-to-back it, but appeared to be a couple above 8000. Guess it depends on how well yours would like a larger TB.
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Late 60's-early 70's GM Power brake check valve on the valve cover & then hose to the intake manifold and DO NOT forget to turn the main seals around!!!-- FED 387
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I tried a road draft tube on my 340 about Fifteen years ago and first race they
made me pull it right off!! |
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ed |
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Anyhow, I thought about that after I posted that. Our car was a '71, so I guess it wouldn't have been legal, either. |
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Yes, yes it's all comming back to me now ! Was that for the single ring piston that was being experimented with. I believe one of my friends went to a Manley seminar back then and thought this new style ring ,piston combination was going to be " to die for" ed |
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It's ironic though, the stuff that's allowed these days, and you show up with a draft tube and yer out! |
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I have tried several theories at the track and confirmed some of them on the dyno. Brake booster valves are not created equal. There is dyno proven power here if you work for it. Mine will suck the bottom of the pan up against the pickup. You have to "release" the vacuum for the oil to drain. Then you'll know your close!
Wade |
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would love to have some feed back or "hint" on the correct brake booster check valve!!!!......late 60's???.....early 70's????......I need this junky 275hp 327 of mine to pick up!!!!:D:confused:
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The brake booster valve I'm using is a 1970 GM version. It just allows air to go in one direction. I don't know why one would be more beneficial than another, but I'll look into it.
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i think your refering to a check valve that is screwed into your header.......brakebooster check valve is plastic and similar to a PCV valve in size
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Wade,
Please expand on your comment of "releasing the vacuum for the oil to drain". Quote:
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I was guessing this is mostly extra carburetor cfm, just not using hollow bolts n things. |
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Also, be very careful while playing with this, it does affect the oil pressure. If you use thin oil and low oil pressure, it messes with the bypass valve in the pump. Wade |
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Wade,
Thanks, that's a great story, and it seems that you have found the system that works for you. This is a subject that merits serious consideration. |
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I've spent a lot of money on PCV valves; trying different applications that I wont go into detail on. But yes, some work, some work better than others..and some don't work.
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I've never run a PCV valve, just the sealed Moroso breathers. Does this setup appear wrong? How do I keep oil from being pulled into the intake? http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/g...ck/panevac.jpg |
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not being a hydraulic engineer or anything like it, but don't pumps need a certain amount of atmosphere pressure to pump? brake booster check valve and a sealed crankcase, sounds interesting. Use the manifold vacuum to pump the crankcase down. |
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believe it or not if they are set up right ya can actually hear the air hissing a little(of course with the engine shut off) also pay close attn to any oil being sucked into the intake it will/could coat the top of the pistons and create detonation !!!
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Back in the 70's we ran the single ring pistons in modified eliminator. The key was to have the engine sealed. Not having access to a vacuum pump we would take the vacuum off the running tow car to test the engine seal. We would try to have in maintain vacuum for one min. Today they make double lip crank seals we used O rings back then in the front and rear seals. We always had vacuum gauges in the cars. The system we used was the moroso setup on both headers as well as one going to the intake under the carb. We used the same mopar check valve that was used on the headers. If the motor was sealed you had small traces of oil in the intake after a run. With the oil separtors available today that should know longer be and issue.
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