Re: alternator
 

Hmm, more to think about then. I guess the next train of thought would be the more engine hp the less hp loss. I know my 64 Savoy with a 440 never had any different ET on or off, (small crank pully and big pully on the alt). As far as consistency, I ran 7.59 with a 1 or 2 all day, alt on, just a bracket car.
By the way, loved Jr Stockers back then.
Mike

Re: alternator
 

Powermaster makes a single wire alternator with and adjustable regulator. I run mine at 15volts, not enough to hurt the battery because its not running that long. If I remember correctly 750 watts equal one HP. So a 100 amp alt. at 12 volts is 1,200 watts less then two HP.

Re: alternator
 

Not disputing your math, but turn that alternator on & off the engine, sitting there running, certainly would speed up & slow down as the alternator was turned off & on.
ET slips certainly showed more than I would expect from 2 hp.

Re: alternator
 

On the one wire alt. if your battery is in the back how are you wiring it? I run a powermaster one wire, been on the car for almost 20 years and had to replace the regulator once. I've spoken to Powermaster,Mechman and East Coast electric and they say to run direct to battery, not the cutoff switch. They said that shutting the power off while the car was running could hurt the alternator and they don't recommend it. Called NHRA and they were very vague about having power at the alternator all of the time even with the main power switch off. I know many tracks when they tech will shut the car off from the cutoff switch as their test.
I'd say shutting off the power to a 1 wire alternator at WOT would not be recommended by the manufacturers.

Re: alternator
 

Jr Stockers were not allowed to move the batteries. Still under the hood. Ten gauge wire to Batt +.

Re: alternator
 

OK, I understand about if the battery is in stock location you don't need a cutoff at the back of the car.
You mentioned cutting alt. power at WOT with a 1 wire alt. Doesn't matter where the battery is cutting power to a running 1 wire alt. is not recommended and can hurt the regulator.
If the load of an alt. is enough to warrant cutting it off the easiest way is with an alt. wired like the factory did it. On a GM style all you need is the heavy wire like a 1 wire and a wire powered by ignition feed with an idiot light in the circuit or a diode to prevent feedback which would keep the ign powered.
Generally the only reason an alt has much of a load is if the battery is low or you're running a lot of accessories. My car is a bracket car and I charge between rounds while cooling mostly to eliminate the draw on the battery. This way the alt. only has to replenish what is drawn from starting the car and what the ign and possibly the taillight draws.

Re: alternator
 

2 Electric fuel pumps ( did not have the pumps we have today), and the ignition system. Small, light weight battery up front. Much more stock than today's Stock 265" engine. Not sure what you don't get. And, no, we did not have battery cut offs at the back of the cars then.

Re: alternator
 

I had to go check my rulebook to make sure that I haven't been reading it wrong for the last 40 years....

Section 11A Page 4 2018 NHRA rulebook

FAN, GENERATOR, WATER PUMP
Alternator or generator must be engine-driven and functioning.
Belt must be tight enough to drive equipment in a satisfactory
manner without excessive or noticeable slippage. May be
relocated. Aftermarket pulleys permitted. Electrically driven fans
and water pumps permitted. Water pump must bolt on, with no
modifications to block. Use of “smog pump” or air pump for
crankcase evacuation
prohibited.

Re: alternator
 

Yep that alternator functions. Want to check it at WOT? Sure.....stand really close right there!:rolleyes:

Re: alternator
 

There ya go!!