Weight box options?
 

Looking for a weight box for removable weight, I wanted the 10"x10" Ken Keir box but he's 3-4 weeks out. Does anyone know of any boxes in stock and available now?

Re: Weight box options?
 

Todd--- Contact Mike Pustelny he has them not sure of cost or lead time tho---cant u fabricate something locally must be a steel or aluminum guy near by

Re: Weight box options?
 

I'm trying to just buy one so I don't have to build it. Just a time thing at this point.

Re: Weight box options?
 

Definitely worth calling Mike Pustelny. He builds a really nice box and I wouldn't be shocked if he had one on hand. 810-798-8998.

Re: Weight box options?
 

Pustelny!

Re: Weight box options?
 

Thanks for the replies everyone, Mike's weight box lookes great but it's too wide to fit where I need it. I ordered a box from Calvert, it has a slightly smaller footprint.

Re: Weight box options?
 

I have a Moroso - are they still available?

Re: Weight box options?
 

I saw those, I think they double as either a battery box or a weight box.

Re: Weight box options?
 

Calvert box for the money is a good choice.

Re: Weight box options?
 

Anything John Calvert builds is an excellent
product and fairly priced!

Re: Weight box options?
 

How about steel flat bars as an option? Two 1/2" threaded rods mounted and stack up multiple pieces as needed.

Re: Weight box options?
 

Re: Weight box options?
 

Now thats a weight box.!

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A friend who runs a 390 Mustang did this. Just bolted on steel plates until he had enough weight to move out of the cars natural class that he shared with Brad Burton.

Re: Weight box options?
 

It's okay for a start, but the bolts/ nuts have to be welded.
But one needs a weight box for the ability to fine tune.
Look at the scale variation that occurred last week.

Re: Weight box options?
 

Have to disagree here. No welding required unless it's mounted as permanent ballast. As removable ballast, plain nuts to secure are fine. Iv'e used 10 lb bars to fine tune quite easily.

Re: Weight box options?
 

I'm at a loss here, bud. I haven't had a rule book in years.
The way I remember it, weight attached to frame is considered permanent i.e. welded.
Removable weight goes in the box.
Now, just because you've been doing it your way, doesn't mean a whole helluva lot as of late. ;-)

Re: Weight box options?
 

Just checked with a preeminent NHRA tech man.
Nuts have to be tack welded on ballast attached to the frame.

Re: Weight box options?
 

My rule book says: Removable weight must be securely mounted to the frame or frame structure by a minimum of two 1/2" diameter steel bolts per 100 lbs, or one 3/8" steel bolt per 5 lbs, all other weight bars, pucks, etc. must use 1/2" diameter SAE grade 8 bolts for attachment. Every Comp car or Pro Stocker has multiple places to bolt weight in and the nut has no weld.

Re: Weight box options?
 

if you really want to be safe use double nuts or NYLOK nuts on each bolt/stud where you are using removable weights--- you can also use bolts with a hole drilled in it and put a spacer(few washers) run the nut down tight then put a hairpin clip(cotter pin) thru the hole to keep the nut from backing off--REALLY -If you follow NHRA guidelines and use the required bolts etc. you should be OK do not understand why they do/would not accept that method ------weight boxes are for "loose"" ballast like bags of lead shot, loose lead bars etc.iron pieces--.not something that is "securely" fastened down

Re: Weight box options?
 

Okay. Is that under general regs.? What does it say under S/SS?
Not a safety rule ,per se, but the idea is so that one couldn't easily pull out a bunch of weight for qualifying, etc. ,as I recall.
I realize that Comp cars put weight in all over the place, hose clamps and all, but we are discussing a Stock Eliminator car here.

Re: Weight box options?
 

BALLAST
Weight box permitted. Only 100 pounds removable ballast permitted, including box (two-box maximum with 50 pounds each). Must be attached to frame or crossmember with minimum of two 1/2-inch bolts. May not be attached to roll bar or cage. Additional ballast must be permanently attached to frame or crossmember, i.e., bolted with at least two 1/2-inch bolts per 100 pounds, with nut welded to bolt. See WEIGHT. See General Regulations 4:2.

Re: Weight box options?
 

There are two types of ballast to consider here. Permanent and removable. If you need to add more than 100 lbs total, then any weight other than that 100 lbs is considered permanent and the nuts are to be welded. Now you can use a box or bolts to secure the removable ballast, up to a 100 lbs.

Re: Weight box options?
 

Hmmm, you make a good point. It says weight box permitted, not required.
On the Monte, we have to empty the box and remove it from the vehicle in order to make the minimum. If we had 5 strips of steel instead, I don't see what difference it would make, except we'd have to crawl under the car every time we wanted to adjust + or - 20 lbs. Seems a lot easier to have a few T-bolts on the lid of the box.
Good luck with that , Hackie...In fact I'd probably argue your side in tech, if I wanted to do it the hard way ;-)

Re: Weight box options?
 

I do the stacked plate version for weight adjustments, I have two 1/2" studs protruding into the trunk and stack however many plates are needed. I've been to several decades of races and have never been told this is not legal. The only thing I have ever been told is that the total weight of the stack of plates needs to be 100# or less. If over that weight, the nuts need to be tack welded.

Jim Caughlin
SS 6019

Re: Weight box options?
 

Me too...except for the "several decades" part, haha. Each plate is 35 lbs in my case, and I'm planning to make a few smaller ones over the winter for fine-tuning.

Re: Weight box options?
 

All good ideas here.
I just like the box thing, where you can throw whatever you want in it in a pinch..Tools, chains, whatever.

I meant to post this earlier, but got side tracked.
I'm not what you call a bubblepak racer, so I build my own boxes. You don't need to be a super fabricator or welder either.
I'd just find a local steel supply in town that will sell "drops" and will shear stuff for you.
Figure out exactly what fits in your car. Lay it all out on paper, and then have your six pieces sheared. Butt each corner up and tack with your Mig on the inside of the seams. Square it up and run your beads on the inside of the box.
A couple of angle tabs facing in , with the 5/16 nuts welded underneath, and you've just about got it.
If you do it right , you won't even need to break out your H/F 5" grinder, this way.
You could be done before happy hour the same day, instead of waiting 2-3 for Buster Brown to show up ;-)