Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

My combo is a 1 off weird duck 2.2L/135 C.I. single point TBI 4 cyl w/ a hall effect distro. 3 wire magnetic pickup 4 blade rotor (original upright Bosch Throttle body). Am currently in process of using the published and printed 271R960A Holley EFI MPFI Main Harness wiring diagram and custom tailoring/adjusting as necessary to make it work w/ the sensors I have (changing to updated sensors, adding some it never had and deleting some on the diagram I cannot add). I am creating/building and terminating the engine sensor harness myself. The harness is within 70 percent completed (completed as far as this stage...Terminator X ECU mounted under dash on board, Power harness mounted and hung all the way to the battery, crimps still need to be finished at the battery for clean fused power supply. (Deleted from the diagram are the following sensors (Any knock sensors and the other 7 injector connections, though I used the called for wire gauge sizes in all instances, and the EFI fuel supply system (with return to cell line), installed 18 months ago, and tested now a full season plus, is fully known working great (a JEGS 500 HP 5 Gal. Cell, Pump, Pre/post filters running Sunoco 110 Standard through properly sized lines I have many different High Impedance Injectors to choose from, current 1 on it now is a 24 -26 lb per hr.(and all have been flow tested from 40-PSI up to 70 PSI with charted in 5 PSI increment increased results)- and I am willing to purchase any Holley or other Injector(s) necessary to get the best results once we know that all sensors and the ECU are giving great data), currently running at 50 PSI (without the vacuum port signal connected, an adjustable FPR mounted on the Throttle Body (though I could reinstall the vac hose if needed or even switch back to the vac adj Stk FP regulator if needed. My Radiator fan is switch operated and controlled manually, as is the Moroso Water Pump Drive at the present time and I wish to leave that so at this time as I like race temp control solely in my hands before staging the car. The system is setup cold blooded, and It now performs best and is most repeatable and consistent if I stage the car at 135-140 degrees (if it is too cold it does not perform best), the thermostat is not currently installed and a very large washer w/ the hole the size of a nickel is used in its place). No matter the wait or rush at the ready line to staging is a process I can easily and quicky achieve so I want to leave that as is at present for easy repeatability. (It can be changed if necessary later once we have data to compare).

The J1A and J1B connectors have been fully populated in the correct pinout order for both the J1A and J1B connectors and every single wire in both connectors were meter tested the entire harness starting length of 15' of wire length for clean voltage and resistance signal (to alleviate any future issues before cutting and terminating any single wire in the entire harness). All engine/chassis grounds and shared sensor grounds in the harness were performed so far and fully tested (added a couple grounds to the Intake that share Chassi grounding points to match the original engineered/designed grounds scheme and make sure that is not a future issue). My 2.2L is solidly and rigidly mounted (using my combo wt/box/ torque strap in the AC mount), but also still contains/is mounted w/ the 3 point rubber engine mount system. So, those multi ground points must be utilized to have good know engine to chassis grounding. It works great right now, so I figured maintaining and matching that was best. The wiring diagram does not call for any Alternator connection, so I have not planned for 1, but should include that a 90 AMP Alternator is installed, and great known working condition and the battery is new. Currently the timing is set right now static at 46 degrees all in, all the time, a bit hard cranking but I have tested it higher and lower, and it is just 1 of those strange creatures that is just happiest/fastest at a certain point and this one loves 46 degrees. .430./.430 measured lift cam currently installed and dialed in 3 degrees advanced. Same thing. I do have multiple cams avail. (though they are not currently in my hands...are at Bullet Cams but will be back soon enough).

I have the following completed both J1A and J1B 12V Switched will be under dash inside car. Relay is mounted near battery under hood. CAN connection including USB 10' cable for laptop near Term. X, Inputs/Outputs completed and terminated at an 8 cavity Deutch connector. I have run the future Holley Dash Wiring, coiled it near ECU in case future expansion choice is used...no plans for the added dash at the moment. The Fuel Pump wiring is installed and run and ready for termination/connection at both ends...The Relay and an under dash stock mercury type tilt/rollover fuel pump auto cuttoff switch and the fuel pump wiring from dash to rear is good known and currently working fine from passenger dash side to rear of car now where pump is mounted.

More in next post below.

Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

I feel your pain!

I don't have a one-off duck combo & have a wiring harness for my sbc.

I'm having issues with software & firmware in bench testing. I think I'm getting it figured out.

We are installing the ecu & harness starting this weekend. The motor is out of the car for time changes & freshening. Once installed I'll bench test the issues in the car.

Sorry, I'm not an expert on this stuff. I fumbled my way through the Sniper set-up I had, but Holley doesn't support that system anymore.

Your best bet is to go on the Holley forums to try & get help.

1700/781L :)

Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

So far on engine bay side of the firewall :

Holley does not make or have an off the shelf harness kit so I have been forced to build/create, and terminate my own based directly off of the above referenced Holley Multi-point Fuel injection wiring diagram and the 1 existing injector. I really only need help from a wiring expert to see if what I envision and have concerning the Ignition portion of the install, cam and crank synchs that this vehicle engine combo did not come stock with will work, or if a conversion to an MSD style ign. box is necessary. I have the stk 3 wire 1 magnetic pickup distro, and have a same type double plate 2.2L turbo style distro/2 magnetic pickup (3 wires each and the pickups are offset more than 90 degrees and 1 is mounted up for the 4 blade hall effect rotor, and the other is mounted on the underside of the pickup plate with a single 180 degree single blade that may be trimmed to any size so leading and trailing edge can be tailored any way we need it to be. And I have access to machining experience and the means to fabricate what we need if that distro can be used for cam/crank signals. The existing (before Holley Terminator X install), ignition is currently a Chrysler Chrome Box electronic ign. module and harness from a 1983 Carbed Dodge Omni edition, fed by the 3 wire single pickup hall effect distro plate and an MSD Blaster ign. coil.

The Terminator X is mounted and has an internal MAP sensor, I will also of course attach the existing vacuum hose to the nipple but have excluded any external wiring in the engine sensor harness as called out for in the wiring diagram referenced since I assume, it is internally mounted and wired. The Split style 2 hole firewall grommet is installed, Power harness is installed. The engine harness is ready to install and is covered at least 50 percent and already terminated using Deutch connectors Oil Pressure (Scarletts Solutions 0-100 PSI Transducer), ready for install and connection. 2 wire split grounding points at the intake manifold, 2 wire AIC, 3 wire TPS, and a 2 wire MAT sensor (the 2.2L did not come stock w/ a MAT sensor, and the intake does not really have a bung or mount point where the sensor can be installed without being directly sprayed with cold fuel so I will be mounting it not directly in the intake air stream but very close to the intake air inlet of the throttle body). The very limited small throttle body inlet (and the only opening I have, tells me not to even think about interrupting the inlet stream or risk creating any air turbulence, so near is better than in the air stream in my case...some data is better in this case than no data at all...if there are other ideas I am open to any real honest suggestions from others with experience, in this case on a sensor and others of course. I also have questions on the IAC as my existing and integrated1 is rear mounted as a part of the upright Bosch throttle body and is only 2 wire 12v type (and the wiring diagram calls out for a 4 wire solution, and currently I used the J!B pins B! and B2 though could use some help here also in case I need to move to a PWM solution for the IAC. Next in line is the switchover from the existing 1 wire stk simple (non- wide band) Bosch O2 sensor to the Bosch style LSU4.9 WBO2 sensor I have been supplied with (which has 5 actual wires and a six cavity plug, but the Holley wiring diagram has 8 wires as does my install cable have seven plus the shield. So I need help with that issue as the WBO2 sensor wiring colors vary and are very different from the Holley WBO2 wiring colors though the connector plug I have is the correct 6 wire male/female type. (do I need a 6 to 8 wire converter, etc?) I have seen 1 available for purchase online.

I have yet to complete and cut, terminate, and cover the sensor harness from center of the firewall (engine side), to the battery, relay and ignition, distro, coil points (and will be completing it as I go)...Up next is the Water Temp sensor (switching on that one wire, to a 2 wire CTS), the Oil Pressure (adding again another 3 wire 0-100 Scarletts Solutions Transducer), then whatever Ignition solution (we can come up with together to complete the harness (all the rest will be terminated, hung/installed within the engine bay and covered as I complete the installation and first fire up, and the testing and learning procedure is completed. The existing original wiring at this time is remaining all in place, the existing ECM/PM and affected sensors will remain and will be ready to reconvert at this time within a few hours back to the way it is running right now should a problem exist since I do not have a spare Holley ECU. Total car weight is not an issue at this point as I have ballast I can remove to adjust the total vehicle weight easily. Once the system has proven it's worth with the new ECU, I can remove the un-necessary wiring, but am keeping the other wiring headlights to taillights at this point.

Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

I still have 1 bracket race week this season at Thanksgiving and (if I can complete the install before then, I can test is and begin it learning), as I have a very good idea (though no expert by far), of the Holley software setup and settings (I have the software downloaded and updated on the laptop, have not updated the ECU yet, but have begun setting up the software w/ the required settings. I am a almost 30 yr IT Tech and computer repair tech, but am not an electrical engineer by any means. I need expert help, am willing to pay a reasonable amount for your time on a T&M basis of course as just the initial consult will take a lil' time since I need to communicate in pics and conversation by phone, texts, or whatever other means, fully what exists now and what results we hope together to achieve, and I know that takes more time than just bringing it to someone and saying complete it please. I love to learn and solve issues, and gain the knowledge, so later I can also diagnose my own issues too. So I do not just want to hand it to someone to just do it for me.

If I can just get it completed, up and running/learning (it is not street able, it is an NHRA Stocker as slow as it is), before that last bracket racing week (as the car is still in storage in L.V.), then after the last race week I will be taking it to someone in the Las Vegas, NV or Lake Havasu City, AZ area for Dyno Tuning time in December to make it again race ready for the 2025 season.

Anyone with suggestions or names and numbers (of the wiring expert I seek), please PM me.

Thanks

Gary.

Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

Thanks 1700, that is my next stop of course I have probably 30 tabs open right now in the forum just am still reading everything out there I can.

OK, have you downloaded and installed the latest software version. and the latest Hardware Firmware Version? If so that is right up my alley and I can talk you through getting the 2 updated. So, PM me if you need help there for sure and put your phone number in the PM and I can call you and talk you through that.

Mainly I am looking for someone that can confirm a few things and mainly the ignition setup, and going with what I have available, or what they think is the best option.(I do not want to send the right voltage to the wrong place). And ummmm, let that magic smoke out.

Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

So far no real pain here except the small cuts on my hands from installing the power harness/relay, etc. at the track in the pits Saturday while I had the room to open both doors full wide and enjoy a decent fall weather day in Vegas and heal and sooth my slightly hurt feelings from a great plan gone awry a bit resulting in a tough 1st rnd loss motivating me fully to up my plan of finally finishing the upgrade now and not wait until the car is home on December 1st. Get that stupid but absolutely necessary project completed.

Eventually after it is done I will move on to take advantage of the 2 step capability it provides. The plan w/ a zero caffeine.-.002 R.T. in Q1, was to simply go caffeine free first rnd and reduce the
Stage stall speed just 200 RPM and tear down the tree while only affecting the E.T. what I was dialed for.

I did just as planned, pre-staged as usual, looked down at the tach, reduced the stall 200 (I could hear and see the 200rpm reduction), looked up and (oh crap the car behind me was already doing his burnout, I could no longer hear my car at all), I bumped in within 3 bumps shallow....And light was right but felt slow and lazy. L. Emmons easily had a better run, deserved the win light.

The time slip showed 5 hun slower than all 3 of my prior Q passes that were all
pretty much matching and very slow but
consistent 2.32 60' times and once you are off that far in a slow car it is pretty much over and cannot be made up.

My tattle tale tach showed the 200rpm reduction, then another 300rpm drop while bumping in and that is my issue to resolve, and 2 step capability will do so.

You cannot take 500rpm out at stall and expect the light or 60' time to still be there. But, at least now I know what caused a great race to turn south, and the solution to not have that happen again. And now have the motivation to do now what I planned on doing a little later and get it live tested at my last event racing this season.

I just need a little expert knowledge to get it done.

Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

Thanks Gary! I shouldn't need your assistance. I had the V2 software loaded & transferred my tune there. Then somehow discovered when bench testing the system. I needed V3 build 100 software & couldn't find it on Holley.com; I did find build 110 & that's what I have loaded now.

Now, it's telling me a need some other update & I think it's the data card. I'm not at a point to do the update with a bench test. Getting ready to install the system in the car.

Thanks again! I should be able to get this figured out.

Good luck with the Thanksgiving race(s)! I was planning to run that race(s) & the SCSN race the weekend before. The motor is out, installing the Terminator X system & doing other changes/updates. Plans change!

1700/781L :)

Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

Looks like you are covering all the bases. If you have specific questions I might be able to help.

I have decent amount of experience with the Holley systems.

Robin

Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

I know you do Robin, and were the exact expert I was looking for actually. May I bounce a few ideas off of you, then ask you about the best solutions please?

At this point everything appears ready to go if we can solve the Ignition, cam/crank synchs issues (my engine currently has neither of the last 2 sensors in stock form), but I will post the pics of what we think may be able to serve as both. (My engine is not a Turbo Edition, and has a single plate 3 wire hall effect distributor currently installed), but I also purchased a 2.2L/135 CI Turbo distributor that has a double 3 wire Hall Effect P.U. plate. and the upper P.U. is off the upper 4 blade rotor, while the lower is offset more than 90 degrees and has a single blade nearly 180 degrees but can be pretty easily machined/trimmed as necessary to achieve a leading or trailing edge in whatever size is necessary. (I need to resize the pic's before posting, but will do so immediately after eating dinner).

I really appreciate you responding & asking Robin I know your knowledge with the Holley EFI systems is extensive. There are a few other questions also, about the O2 and IAC.

I certainly have very specific questions Robin.

My IAC is attached to the rear of the upright Bosch throttle body, bolted to but fully integrated into the T.B. (so, I must use that IAC), but it has only 2 wires Brn/Wht and Tan. (so far I have only run 2 wires (J1B (Pin B1 IAC Lo, and Pin B2 IAC HI) within the harness for the IAC, though I can rectify that if necessary if I need to switch it to wiring it by the PWM method, by switching the J1B cavity spots I am using, though it looks like the PWM method also calls for 4 wires, so I not sure of anything except I must use my stock IAC on my stock Throttle Body and it only has 2 wires (I can certainly back probe the connector and get voltage readings from it though to provide).

My original stock narrow band 02 Sensor is a 1 wire Bosch sensor and I am replacing it with a 2.9 Bosch (going a lil' cheaper as I am using Term. X, leaded race gas, and will need to carry spares and change them often possibly, though I am not fouling the single wire I understand the heated WB02 sensors are more prone to failing using leaded gas). Ok, the wire colors on the sensor are different (White, Red, Black, Yellow, and Blue I think, there are truly only 5 wires and a 6 cavity plug on the sensor with 1 of the cavities blocked off, (I also purchased the matching other 6 cavity female plug), I show and have attached the actual 8 wire WBO2 (7 wire plus shield cable to the harness all the way back to the J1A proper pinout cavities), diagram shows 8 wires (I have seen an 8 wire to 6 wire conversion extension I think it was on Summit, but is there an easier simpler way to wire it in properly? 5 on the WB02 sensor, 6 at the plug, to 8 Holley Term. X pinouts?

I do have a complete set of the 1984 Dodge Daytona Dealer Service Manuals and the as built complete wiring diagrams for the car if necessary and can forward pics of any subsection if needed for reference. If it makes it any easier to research the necessary solutions.

Other than that, I have deleted the knock sensors (I have zero provision on the block...unless you think I can and should add 1 somehow a lot like I am attempting to add the MAT that did not exist near the throttle body intake. And the MAP is internal in the Term. X of course. So I deleted the wires from the harness or just did not fill the cavities in the J1A Connector.

Thank you for responding again and offering your help Robin. (I will post pics soon tonight). Speed is not the most important element at this point as the car is currently 100 miles away from me right this minute.

Accuracy of the right/best solutions to attempt is, as I can easily make a trip back up to Vegas and finish terminating and installing the Main J1A/J1B engine harness as I am now down to the Ignition (I am not positive I can use my Chrysler/Mopar style Electronic Ignition Module and Coil, or if I need to switch to an MSD or not?)

The WBO2 and IAC, and connecting everything else as all the rest is terminated properly and tested as far as conductivity, resistance, and wire colors, pinout maps, grounds, etc.

Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

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Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

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Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

The pics I posted so far, pic 1 (the Chrysler 5 pin Electronic Spark Control module and harness is from a 1983 Dodge Omni. (We took spark control away from the ECM/PM stock package and it currently is set at 46 degrees static all in all the time and runs happiest at that albeit very high setting. Have tried higher and lower.

It is harder starting, but never fails to fire up. I don't know if we can even use it w/ the Terminator X..more than willing to go to an MSD or Daytona CD1 based Ign. box if not but need best suggestion on what to buy if so.

The second pic is the Bosch upright throttle body w/ the 2 wire IAC on the rear of it (I have 2 of them, a brand new 1 is on the car now, and the stock 1 I have rebuilt and the following pics are the throttle body rear without the IAC attached showing the air passage ports top and bottom. I have 1 of the original Chrysler diagnostic tools which has a function setting wherein after plugging it into the ECM diagnostic connector at the passenger strut tower you can run through 5 cycles of each EFI function like IAC, injector firing, etc.

That 2 wire IAC when running the service diagnostic tool just cycles open /closed, so very simple.

Really just need wiring pinout there Hi/ Low?...the Holley wiring diagram calls for 4 wires. Or do we need to go PWM?

Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

The next set of pics is the 84 Turbo edition dual hall effect pick up distributor w/2- 3 wire connectors (the 1 distributor currently on the car has 1 -3 wire connector, and 1 hall effect P.U., Just the top of the plate that is fired by the 4 blades under/attached to the rotor underside), the Turbo distro has 1 under as seen and that large 1 inside the distro body can be machined or trimmed easily enough if needed, in addition to the top P.U. used by the rotor.

I only have 1 single injector and as Gump has pointed out to me in a PM, we may not even need a double synch as long as the Holley ECU sees absolute TDC for the crank signal since it is single point injection?

On that distro, the pickup wires on each of the 2- 3 wire connector(s) are red/green/black if the connector is cut off. The green wires are the centers w/ the white trace markings. The balance of the pics are the Chrysler chrome box 5 pin elect. control module and single Mallory coil.

I will get a new 5 pin connector if we can use the existing spark control module. If we switch to MSD or another CD type, then best unit to use I am up for recommendations before I buy it. I do want 2 step functions soon.

Next up I will find and resize and post the WBO2 pics am having issues on how to wire that up as there are 8 holley wires (7 plus the shield), then the Bosch 2.9 WBO2 has actual 5 wires to a 6 pin connector-1 is not a pin. And the wire colors do not match between the shielded cable and the sensor. The 8 pin Deutch connector I will next install on the cable I have the diagram pinout locations on it, it is from the main harness connector (8 cavity),
to the 6 cavity female connector or do I need /should I buy the 8 to 6 conversion extender I saw at Summit for the 2.9 Bosch WBO2...or scrap it all and need the Holley WBO2 to solve that connection issue?

All other connections to all sensors have been accomplished. (Inputs/outputs, CAN, future dash if needed), fuel pump, relay, the main power for the Terminator X, fuses at the battery and at the mounted Term. X, MAP is internal, TPS, additional 2 Manifold ground points added & connected to the loose black main ground. Injector, Fuel Pressure, Oil Pressure, MAT, Water Temp, (engine does not have knock sensors, so those cavities in J1A were left unpopulated, plugged), car does have a speed sensor on it, I have not run anything to that sensor), I did not see any provision for that in the MPFI

Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

Wiring Diagram has no provision for it.

The original stock ECM/ PM is a (Speed Density based EFI system). Pretty crude, but worked simply by tables and on/off flag settings. The ECM coding at the time was never released per EPA regulations and nobody ever was able to burn performance chips for them as only the rebuilders had access. (I did get a look at a later 85 model turbo one that was hacked but just the tables could be viewed via a custom cable plugged into the diagnostic connector allowed access to change a few flags. A preset safety of the 84 TBI shuts off the injector at 4800 rpm in low gear only that I now know is triggered by the existing MAP sensor it a major limitation. I had a higher lift al lot of overlap and duration Reed cam in the car a year ago, that would have zero vacuum until 3,000 rpm where it just started building any vacuum allowed the engine to bypass that safety (no vacuum for the MAP sensor to trigger the ECM, and in low on an 1/8th mile legal street track setup allowed it to scream right up to 7K rpm in low gear. That cam was pulled out. But, getting rid of that safety w/ the Holley Term. X is the key. Currently short shifting 4,600/6,200 in D, to stay away from that injector cutoff safety that leads to a lean pop condition and massive loss of et if you get anywhere near exceeding 4,800 rpm in low gear only. That cure is what I need to finish installing. It runs great at sea level, at elevation tracks it is very rich, and Currently no provision or tuning capabilities to lean it out any further at elevation.

Ty for any input you may have on the ignition, IAC, and WBO2...and anything else I noted above. And if you need any other info I can provide it ASAP.

Thanks again Robin I appreciate any input or help you can provide in helping me with the completion and any other suggestions you may have to get the best options installed.

Gary.

Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

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J1A/J1B, CAN & 10' CAN to USB cable, 12V Switched, Inputs/Outputs, (future Holley dash Loop).

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Fuel Pressure

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MAT, TPS, IAC, 2 Intake Manifold Grounds, 8 wire-7 plus shield WBO2 cable drop, 1 Injector.

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The covering currently ends about where CTS, & Oil Pressure are next up to terminate, and then the Relay/Fuse/Battery/Fuel Pump/Ignition/Coil and main ground all will terminate but I want to install through the firewall grommet first after deciding which ignition/distributor solution to use.

Each wire remaining for the balance of the harness is populated, tested and labeled, trimmed and covered as I complete a section. The under-hood Relay is also mounted near the battery. And the Main Holley ECU Power Harness is mounted, hung and ready for connection at the battery.

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Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

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Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

Adding some research into further wiring diagrams. Some were collected directly from the Service Manual I have (and both of the models 84 2.2L TBI Z model as built wiring diagrams and the 84 Turbo Edition). As I have both distributors available. And I have noticed that the Shelby edition of the TBI and the Turbo Edition did have a Detonation Sensor in the top rear of the Valve Cover (I could certainly add 1 as the sensors are available, and I am using the Turbo Valve Cover, so I could add a bung to it easily enough).

Adding the appropriate wiring at this point to the harness would not be difficult either if it would help the Terminator X in tuning later. Are Detonation sensor and Knock sensor interchangeable in The Holley nomenclature? I am assuming they mean the same thing of course.

The single plate EFI Distro P.U. wiring connector is seen in the E.F.I. (right side, 3 wire round connector in a triangular pattern), and on the EFI Turbo P.U.'s (2) it shows up as 2- 3 wire round connectors, each keyed differently in the connector housing shape internally as 2- in a triangular pattern a little more left on the right page. I also took pics of both the key switch and fuse box wiring diagrams, and the speed sensor (I know this can be very confusing (multiple wiring diagram images but, there are multiple distro choices, as there are multiple Ignition choices), I am just looking for the choices that boil down to working out the best.

I also took a few pics from a couple of sources of the crude hand drawings (and better), of the 3 types of historical Chrysler ignition using the large type ballast resistor (mine does not have 1 unless it is very hidden somewhere). And my Chrysler Ignition Module does not have the usual external transistor mounted on the cover. I have reviewed an online resource on YouTube to test the module, coil, etc. using a test light, meter, and external old school spark gap tool.

I am posting the wiring diagrams now that I resized 800 X 400 pixels below in case they help us get the 12V switched connected to the best source under dash (or elsewhere), so we can see the 3 wire and 6 wire different distro plugs, the optional Detonation sensor choice, and optional Speed Sensor 2 wire connection/routing (though I do not know if there is even Holley Terminator provision for that at all...Possibly input/output? Or if it would even add anything to the equation, but it exists).

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Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

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Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

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The Vacuum Routing Diagram is also attached (much of that no longer exists as the Original Gas Tank has been replaced with a fuel cell, the charcoal vapor recovery system deleted, and only the attached Power Assist Brake Booster, PCV, and Map Sensor vacuum line are still attached (IAS of course on the rear of the throttle body passes metered air from top to bottom and around the single throttle body blade when opened). The vacuum solenoids (2), are still mounted under hood near the passenger side front strut tower , and are electrically still attached (plugged in), so as not throw codes via the stock Logic Module currently (and activate the Power Limited Dash light system), all vacuum ports otherwise are capped at said solenoids'. That vapor recovery system by the stock L.M./P.M. orig. operated only at full throttle, and after 2 seconds of full throttle, repeating every 2 seconds, and activated the vapor recovery solenoid causing issues during full throttle low vacuum situations. Cured by deletion and disconnection of the vapor recovery system, and the addition of a fuel cell, and an updated EFI fuel system upgrades. (I included it only to add as much info as possible to understand the original stock systems setup and the changes so far).

As of Monday 2:17 PM AZ Time (MST), Robin I have received your PM to call you (now that I have resized the above pics and added them for possible reference, I will text you first (as I do not wish to disturb your busy dyno work), and when you find a convenient best time for my call please simply text me back and I will call then. The car is still in Las Vegas in storage 100 miles north along with the not yet completed harness.

Again, I really appreciate any help I receive.

If we make progress on possible solutions this week my plans are to go back up and install it next Sunday/Monday as I will be bracket racing it 1/8th mile only Wednesday-Sunday of that week. If not, I will race it as is, and finish the install after I bring the car home Dec. 1.

Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

And then, since I do not have the car right here in front of me, and we are now ready for the beginning of phone calls, I looked at pics taken just a little over a week ago as I started the Holley Power Harness install, and started a pretty crude drawing of exactly how we installed that Mopar Ignition box back in the Spring of 1995 and exactly how all the related wiring is connected right now. I realized I could draw and relate all the existing connections (except exactly which wires, are connected to which of the 3 cavities in the existing 3 wire distributor connector- lower left in my crude diagram), as I will need to actually get back to the car and go to that connector and peel a small amount of silicone off the end of the connector and peel back the corrugated poly covering to see the 3 spliced wires and their colors and how they match up with the 3 White/Black/ and Orange wires in the harness going from the existing Distributor to the 5 pin Chrysler Electronic Ignition Module to add to my diagram. And that currently is missing info in my crude drawing posted below. (The Green/Wht trace wire powering the + side of the coil comes directly from the stock Alternator feed which actually has that Ballast Resistor built into/attached to the rear of the alternator instead of most older Mopar's having it on the firewall).

We picked up key on power to power the Ignition box from the Logic Module Diagnostic plug as it was conveniently right there a few inches away from coil and box and supplies battery power at all times as long as the key is on...(that Blue wire supplies 12V power to the Diagnostic Tool when it is plugged in for Code Reading/Clearing of the Logic Module/P.M., and repetitive testing of all EFI Functions like Injector, IAC, TPS, etc.), and the other plugged in connection there next to it is simply a toggle switch to ground (a controllable jumper), that when switched to on, when key is in on position...engine not running (usually gets a 3 second pump prime of the EFI fuel pump, then shuts off allows me to shut off engine, turn key back on at fuel ck...and allows me under hood to take fuel samples and have full control of fuel pump on/off functions. It simply turns the pump on/off (usually is in off position unless taking an under hood sample, in my case no longer needed, unless required, since my sample valve is in the rear of the car and no longer requires using the fuel pump...much safer), and it is a diagnostic test function of the fuel pump and full return fuel system loop, found in the service manual. (Draining the entire fuel system can also be accomplished under hood- disconnect the T.B. feed line, add a hose over the fender to a fuel jug, turn on key and flip the switch and the entire system contents will end up in the jug w/ complete control just inches away).

Attachment 71750

Attachment 71751

Attachment 71752

Attachment 71753

Attachment 71754

Attachment 71755

I am guessing a smarter man than I (more experienced with Mopar Ignition boxes), could easily figure out the missing info at that 3 wire distributor plug connection using the service manual data I also listed above. And If I had the 1983 Dodge Omni (Carb Edition), wiring diagrams, I would have no need to go look at the car to fill in the missing info. That install was done in 1995 and a much smarter man at electrical ignition connections than I performed the operation and it works (TY Bernie Cunningham), but it still allows very limited tuning options.

I am just attempting to relate what is it right now, so we can make fully informed decisions of what it needs to be for best future results. This old horse needs that fresh new much improved (Holley EFI), heart A.S.A.P. (but what else does it need as Ignition to jump start it best and allow it to take advantage best of all those new tuning functions, while also getting rid of all those designed in stock EFI limitations added to an overly smogged up & underpowered lower emissions 1980s street driving turtle?)

Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

Greg Hogue and Robin Lawrence...We have success and I could not have done without you both! Thank you both bigtime!

Fire in the holes after the Holley Term. X Upgrade.. It was a long haul as it was no kit out of the box but we have success and I have a lot to learn, but have learned a ton along the way.

Last item I needed to order from Holley a High Impedance injector. On the way. 13 days until 1st Test n Tune of 2025 at Vegas. Will the cold air hold out?

Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

That's good to hear Gary!

I hope my new installed Terminator X works out well. I didn't have all the challenges you had, but I did have some. I was able to transfer the majority of my Sniper tune to the X. I've been told by one expert that there will be differences in the tune.

As for the 1st TnT, we should have the quad out & maybe the bike. I pick up the motor for the car tomorrow, I doubt it will make it out.

1700/781L :)

Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

Great to hear you are getting yours finished up soon too 1700, there was no wonder I could not find a step-by-step vid. on the net to add the Bosch WBO2 lsu 4.9 to the pin map in the Terminator X since that is the only one it works with. They do not appear there in the fixed pin positions but it is on and heating properly. Spoke w/ Robin yesterday. And my injector is in town and arrives between 2:30-4:00 PM tomorrow so will be making happy noise and already warned my neighbors.

Software gauge setup and calibrations completed and still 7 days to Vegas testing so plenty of time for leak testing and a bit of learning to get in.

This was not really trouble as much as it was a real deep dive into the unknown, as it was risky and worrisome taking it from finally working well and coming off the first win to all apart (it has been a need to do forever), to get the car to at least live up to its potential.

That first time end to end shifting it out and going through the traps at what it should be capable of will be fun. And it won't be on the first pass, but it will come soon enough.

The Terminator X will be only managing fueling (and getting rid of the safeties and limitations coded or flagged into the old ecm/pm speed density efi system), at this point (still using the 5 pin Mopar Ign. Ecu for spark), so there is still room to upgrade the car to allow the Holley
system to manage timing and a 2 step, but I have spent enough on the major upgrades this Winter.

Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

Well, my trials and tribulations continue, but I think it is just an owner knows nothing about how to actually set up the software issue...so, I am now seeking out pro help to educate myself on the issue. Installed the new High Impedance injector Friday night after it arrived at 7:30 PM and same result. Worked all day Saturday and 2 things stand out...No RPM signal, no actual firing of the injector, and have determined it may be a pinning issue. A Bosch Noid light on the injector clip only shows a single flash during the pump priming at initial key on and no other flashes.

So, will wash the car, load it up on a trailer and take it to Lake Havasu this week after the Holiday Monday and go see a couple of experts and teachers. It is very close to running but I need some quick education to get there.

So, I have fully tested the put it all back to the ancient 84' EFI tech for the first time by Reinstalling the Old ECM/PM, switching out the O2, temp sensor, injector, coil wiring, and plugging back in the old sensors (tps, AIC, fuel pump, etc), throughout the still installed stock system wiring and 2 hrs 45 mins later it was up and running with the new Term. X system just unplugged. Just like the last month never happened.

I can at least drive it on and off a trailer and the switch over will take less than 2 hrs there as I can unplug rather than remove the 2 major parts (the old ecm/pm). At least I am learning a lot. Lol.

It will make for a long day or 2 maybe, if it is not just a simple software, configuration fix.

Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

Gary,

Hope you get it all sorted out in Havasu!

Sounds like you might have it out for our 1st TnT this coming Saturday. I should have time to come over & introduce myself.

The only thing we are testing is the drag quad. Hope to fire the Camaro tomorrow to put a heat cycle on the engine. We'll see if I did the install, software set-up & tune correctly on the Terminator X.

1700/781L :)

Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

Looking forward to it 1700, it is definitely ignition related (not yet getting a square wave rpm signal), and I just do not yet know what I need to know about the software yet. With no square wave signal the single injector will not fire. Everything else is working. Spark and air is great, but you also have to have fuel to make noise and power. (I ordered a couple of parts to see if we can accomplish getting a square wave patterned signal from a different distro p.u. that will be in after the first test and will take that completed once in to the local community College lab (where my wife is a faculty member and do a drill spinup test on a lab scope, as that may just resolve my issue. Not giving up, just delayed a tiny bit. A digital ignition box is the easiest cure, but wanted to wait on that next improvement. The total costs so far rose pretty fast even doing all the work myself.

I will be there on Saturday to test either way, as the car is currently right now back running on the old ecm/pm, and need to test all the other improves and move the car back to Vegas storage end of day. We certainly will not be complaining about the crisp cold air! It is cccccoooooold out!

Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

Well crap...MSD makes a simple $129 buck ($140 w/tax), Part # 8509 Module that converts the V sine signal of a magnetic p.u. to a square wave signal that works with either the white points output wire of an MSD Ign. Box or will work w/the crank/cam signal wires.

Ordered it last night so it can easily be installed by next week's test day, and bracket races 1&2. While I was out searching for the best solution it was available on the Holley website all along.

At least I am getting the conversion time between old and new systems down to about 2.5 hrs or less. That could help in a pinch. And I am learning.

Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

Good meeting & chatting with you today in the lanes. Hope you get everything sorted out for racing next weekend!

1700/781L :)

Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

You also 1700, so (funny story about the harsh environments we race our cars in popped up last night), I got 5 test passes in yesterday and car runs right, working on the tree attempting to trim the stall correctly am happy with the test.

I move my car over to the storage unit 10 miles from the track and mark, take pics and remove my simple distributor to bring it home and I can barely move by hand the shaft of the distributor. How often once we find the sweet spot in timing, do we actually remove, clean and adjust 1 of the hardest working parts of our car?

How many actually de-pin (remove the roll pins), disassemble the unit down to the bare shaft, grease and reassemble it if it is working right? It was right just 2 seasons ago, but has been through a lot. I could turn it, but just barely by hand.

In the center of the shaft is a grease groove, and a machined spiral that drives any oil that may climb the shaft back downward in the normal direction
of operation, that was packed with dirt, hardened and solidified grease (and plenty of dirt track clay it appeared that was bound up between the shaft grooves and the brass shaft bushing).

I actually had to drive the shaft out if the
bushing and use carb dip to dissolve the
old grease and clay. It was a new part just 2 seasons ago. (1 really dusty event though in November 2023 at Vegas though when we needed to use leaf blowers to blow off cars and pit surfaces. The body was full of clay dust below the HEP plate. A nasty black powder.

The old saying if it is working don't touch it does not fly. It had to be robbing HP period. Lessons learned. But, hard to do, mess with timing once you find that sweet spot where it works right. Until it just doesn't.

It was borderline, and was about to cause major issues. If it were not for solving the square wave signal issue of the Holley ECU, that would have not been found until it bound up solid.

A blessing in disguise. And I already have the replacement. And a new item to add to the "maintenance it more often list" whether I want to or not.

That part is only 2 seasons old. A simple hall effect distro. But it works hard and has lived in a filthy windy/dusty environment and the charged ions internally attract dust, dirt and grime and has plenty of holes engineered into it to vent out those ions. And a spiral machined groove to drive the oil southward back into the block.

The smallest things can easily be overlooked.

Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

I bet your car picks up a good tenth give
the HP level you are working with Gary!

Seriously, I have never encountered that particular
problem in the 60+ years I have been racing.

Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

I had not either John, I was shocked it would barely turn and had not twisted the shaft yet.Attachment 71975 It had galled the shaft and the stuff left in the bottom of the distro was definitely clay dust from that dirt track. There are 4 venting holes in the bottom and a big vent in the Cap to let out the charged ions, but it also lets in dust and dirt.

My guess as bad as it was bound up will likely be a tenth too (in the first 60 feet maybe)...we shall see again in just 5 days. You can see where the 2" bushing sleeve wear was in the pic above. The first shaft I have seen though w/ that spiral oil groove and that drives oil downward, but also dust and dirt too that finds its way in, packed it all tight into that machined grease groove. The stuff in that groove was like concrete until I put it in Berryman's Carb Dip. Then I could scrape it out easily w/ a pick.

Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

Picked up a 10th and a half due to just the fixed distributor. Spare Distro body is having a Pertronix Ignitor P.U. installed within. And appointment set in Havasu to finish my (Holley Term. X), install and get it pro-tuned soon to start me off right. Patience and persevering pays off I guess.

Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

Still running on the Stock ECM/PM so far, but ran in the 16's at Phoenix vs mid. 17's at Vegas in The Summit Series. Car has a drop-off appt. on the 10th of March with Matthew Goade of RAD (River Auto & Dyno in Lake Havasu City, AZ), to check out and finish it all up and get it right the first time, which will help me learn the software portion he says I will learn it faster if it is right to begin with. Things are harder when it is an odd combo that nobody has done much with before.

Looking really forward to improving the Q-sheet position(s), makes the wait with it though the recent car changes has already improved basic performance of the driver over the last few months and made us both somewhat more competitive, so I am really looking forward to getting the next step completed. One large step at a time.

Matt has seen the car run a couple of times now and is familiar w/ the combo (at least the year, make, & model and knows the perplexity of the upgrade fully, and bonus is he is only 35 mins.
S.W. of me, so he is local and has seen the job and I have an 8 day break in my race schedule we scheduled the completion of the project drop-off for.

I really wanted to complete it myself, but I will learn quicker this way, and it will be right, right outta the box (giving me a tune I can always fall back on if I screw things up later, and I will have I believe a shorter software learning curve). You could fit in a thimble what I really know about the Holley Software right now, but as a longtime computer repair and IT
Tech, it won't take long given a great starting point. We shall see soon.

Where I lack right now was that there are strange differences in nomenclature between the wiring diagram and the software pin mapping (they flat out do not match up, and as a guy who is not an electrical engineer by trade, I simply do not know the exact type each wire on the WBO2 is beyond + or - , some do not even give you that much info, and unless you know offhand the exact type to enter into the pin mapping stage of hardware/software/wiring setup), you cannot get past wire 1, to even enter 2-8). YouTube videos are not detailed step-by-step enough to muddle through, phone call tech and tuning help is good, but direct hands on help with dyno time will yield better results.

Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

Above I have thanked a few along the way, I will thank the man now who took the mess that I was actually unqualified to even begin (making my own harnesses, because there was not an off the shelf solution available.

It now runs, it idles, it is now set to learn (there are things yet to do on the punch list I brought it home with, and plans in the near future to make all of the Holley Terminator X features available to use. Those things will come in due time.

I need to thank Greg Hogue for talking me into it and providing parts for the project. Robin Lawrence for stepping up and answering the call for help and encouragement, info, experience, data and providing a couple of parts I needed further. Holley for delivering purchased parts timely. The Irving's, 1600 Camaro, Billy Nees, and Yac.....all for not discouraging me (when they could easily have...I am no electrical engineer, and a robot or computer is not a race car), and actually encouraging me by not doing so (or in Billy's case giving me very valuable
free advice and great options, I chose to finish what I started...with expert help to clean up my mess, and I know that had to be the most frustrating 9 hrs he has ever soent chasing gremlins), and John Irving for actually not scoffing at my industriousness, and just saying "Well that is Very Ambitious of you" when explaining to him I was installing "in the pits" no less, the Holley T.X. harness I built.

I turned the project over to Matthew Goade owner of RAD River Auto & Dyno on Monday afternoon very hastily no less after being late 3 hrs. for my appointment set 5 weeks ago), due to a Tow Rig Truck breakdown on Sunday (we just cannot plan those, (I proceeded to wound the car and began a switch over from stock electronics working car to Holley system not running (I hsd planned to hand it over ready to begin easier, and we together both just ran out of time), I left to head back to Vegas then home after returning a rebted truck and trailer. It was a hasty exit, car was mortally wounded (old ecm/ pm in boxes in the hatch, and the turnover was not completely done). He spent 9 grueling and no doubt frustrated hrs
chasing down and fixing my errors (also I, unknown at the tine to me, had installed a non-working but new WB02 sensor), and charged me for only 7.

Just Tuesday evening he called me, car is up and running on The Holley, there is work left to do, I will give you a minor list, car has a base tune in it, WB02 needs replacement, Header collector needs extending for WB02 sensor, but it runs and idles fine...He was out of time, fully understood, as he also has other jobs lined up, other customers have appointments and need work done, and I picked it up early Wednesday AM (with his recommendations and punch list and happily paid the invoice with my apologies as follows.

Matt I fully dropped off a not finished buggy installation I understand now, that I really was totally unqualified to begin myself, but that is how we learn. And I will let all in the sphere of my influence know exactly who (frustratingly of course), tracked down & solved my issues and got it running!

I did not actually know Matthew Goade until 6 weeks ago, though I see a lot of RAD prepped cars at Vegas and elsewhere, and they fly...now I know why, and am super glad I met him when I did.

I know I frustrated you big sir, but I am sure glad right now, that you said you would take on the job, and actually delivered a running car. Sry from my soul that it frustrated you...But, you also were
up to the task...Now, I know what you did for me. And now I need to follow the advice and show off what you did to complete the project.

Don't be like me, take it to RAD...River Auto & Dyno first in Lake Havasu City, meet Matthew Goade and friends. He can work miracles.

I flat hated those ancient rudimentery electronic EFI elements that came stock in that car. And now they are in boxes in the hatch. That is where they will stay until I have a spare Holley branded ecu. But, I bet I sell em all to a rebuilder (before I ever put them back in that car).

I drove it on and off the trailer 1.5 days after delivering it to Matt! That car has not idled like that since 1997 Matt. And hearing from you that it will shift at 6,800 RPM all day long. Music to my ears brother! I think before I left I explained why...and you both understood why. I hope our identical guesses on the p.u. are spot on.

If so, we are right onto half of Billy Nees suggestion number 2. And doing so by doing number 1.

Thanks to everyone listed above in the thread, special thanks to Matthew as he made it all come alive w/fire in the 4 holes (first turn of the key in his shop), after working his magic by correcting my mistakes! Thanks Man...let's go racin' boys. See you next weekend in Vegas!

I want to show you what ya did for me.

You think you were frustrated sir, you should have tried to race it with those old Dino bones installed...I think I explained it a bit. Frustrated me for decades now, and now they are all boxed up, almost ready for sale...all 7 ecm's and 3 power modules om my garage shelf. (I am actually going to get to use all the available horsepower of that Engine I rebuilt 3 yrs ago...finally).

Thank you all! You know who you are.

I appreciate all of you. Having a blast, but it will be even more fun soon.

Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

I know Billy, "less typing, more wrenching"...I just took a break to say thanks where many Thank You's are due. It is really important to do so.

Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

Edited out.

Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

Edited out.

Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

Tested the car last Friday (Tuner Matthew Goede with RAD present and working his magic on the keyboard. Through a Muffler and long pipe extension. Ran the same ET from week before at 2,000' higher corrected DA. No more 4,800 rpm safety in low gear from the old ECM/PM, still driving in D...but adjusted the shift point a bit higher and 5600/5600/4,500 at tge stripe. Car wanted more, more, more fuel. Matt gave it more each pass for 4 passes.

Final 2 passes 60' matched , 330 matched to the thou. 660' within a couple of thou.....but the quarter was slower each pass.

Entered for Saturday/Sunday but Matt looked at the logs overnight and we are waaaaaay to lean (no damage though, but need to locate a 120-125 lb/hr injector High Impedance Bosch EV1 style on Saturday in Vegas, I had to withdraw my paid entry (first time in my racing life), and searched all day Saturday all over the Vegas Valley...no go. Changed plugs, inserted the camera into all 4 cyls, nice and clean in there as were the plugs removed, no piston or valve damages...whew! Packed it up, asked by note at 5AM Sunday to withdraw from The Sunday Race too. That really sucked, and put the car away in storage...ordered 2 injectors from fuel injectorclinic.com by Robin Lawrence contact Monday AM (TY again Robin!...)

The injectors 1-1,400cc/min and 1-1,700/min. Shipped Monday at noon. Due in Thursday/Friday. The Spring Fling 1/8th mile races 15K, 30K, 30K, 30K, Million starts April 1 @Vegas. It will need some tuning, but it will have the correct amt. Of fuel after a quick injector change and a 2 wire AIC repinning
switch. It is going to be ready.
I just hope it takes all day to get a couple of rounds done, I am deadly after dark there.

We shall see soon enough. Thank you Matthew/RAD...your time, advice, and tuning magic are valued highly! (It killed me not to race it, but you were right, it is not worth hurting it by any means), I was long gone in the dark of early morning before even the Juniors started up Sunday. I had to get off the premises before I heard the first motor start up....
I have the drag racing bug really baaaad!

Things are about to get a lot more fun racing a bit faster class racing turtle. Stay tuned, while it gets tuned!

Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

Gary,

Hope your system continues to improve & you meet/exceed your goals!

Mathew Goede worked his magic on an issue that had been plaguing our Terminator X tune, that had gotten worse. He hooked up to my ECU 4 times making changes.

My 60's & reaction times were 1.43s & .1xx, after his changes I was in the 1.37s & .01x. I had him stop with the changes because I had to start racing. I'm sure there's a little left in tuning for quicker 60's. We have been in the 1.20s with the old system.

1700/STY/781L :)

Re: Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.
 

Will not give away too much yet...But Matthew Goade of RAD (River Auto & Dyno), Lake Havasu City is a magic man on the keyboard tuning me throug a bucket list Spring Fling when we had to start all over fresh with a much larger injector. I could dial and go rounds a .002, a .017, a string of .030-.038 1 early deep red, and 1 foolish bet with Peter Biondo on an .003 for 50 bucks that was my worst light of the week...contained a 3..proceeded by an.08 (Note to self do not get wise with the seller of the boxes and parts you do not use), the lord gets even, sends a message and pride goes before the fall...but when he asked what my light would be I wasn't going to say .083 I said almost same thing it was at this time yesterday (.002), and padded it by a thou he said if it was he would pay 50 bucks...it wasn't. He collected a buyback and I got a free ice cream. Lol.

The tuning though was amazing (had three mechanical little things needed immediate attn. over 3 days, all fixed), and he said it was also 1/4 mile ready on the tune, everything looks good...Drive it hard, drive it like I stole it! So, that combined with a famous last file, last pass breakout off the throttle fully and on the brakes (against an unknown trip zip .000 8 thou total pkg in the other lane behind me....and looking up to see I was broke out .08 on a .25 in dial in an 8mph, gusting to 17-18 mph headwind at almost 2,500 corrected D.A.....that last file loaded is fast and I am looking forward to my first Nat. Event quarter mile Q-pass session on the 11th, eve, in D and through the muffler. Really looking forward after some data soon fir a sneak up but full wring out shifting it fully.

Following the advice of a great Tuner though, and that day will come soon enough!

TY huge Matthew Goade (RAD)! Racing and crewing fir Scott McClay on his Comp Elim. Entry these next 3 again (⁴ wides plus LODRS double at Vegas), will be interesting and busy. Adding a generator to keep it all charged up and aired up helped a bunch.

May will bring more fun as racing goes away until a bracket double in June, heading out to Texas to see some old and new friends and add a bit faster slow car to a Div. Double that rarely has a slow entry show up there.

Only been there at The Motorplex once in 1995 (a rain out after qualifying), and never got to return (Used that entry in Baton Rouge, LA a month later in the season). So, looking forward to that and finally meeting Greg Hogue in Aledo too!

We shall see how much faster (under index at least), we can work up to by races 4/5 on the new Holley Terminator X.

Thank you again MATTHEW. I know it has been a pain, unicorns are like that, but it is getting faster and sounds better than ever...those plugs are amazing looking for a car that was forever slow and phat!

Anyone in need of a fantastic Tuner (all types of systems, in person, in shop, or remote), or overall car design, build, etc.

MatthewGoade RAD (River Auto & Dyno), Lake Havasu City, AZ @riverautodesign
1435 Countryshire Ave.
Suite 101
Lake Havasu City, AZ 86403

Do not cheat yourself out of a great experience. Call him! Look him up on social media as he is active and you can see his work there too!
(928) 538-8599