Jumping in to Stock Eliminator
I want enter the stock eliminator life!
Im thinking of run my '86 Dodge 150 long bed 318 !!! Been researching on the 318 set up or even go with 360 Any class racers with info on these dodge truck running class I want the good and bad |
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This is the best advise you will ever get about getting into stock or super stock. Buy a vehicle that is already a race car. I am certain many people will co-sign with me on this. Cheaper, a lot less frustrating and in end a hell of a lot more fun. Buy what you can afford, learn, upgrade as you can.
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There are a dozen 360 combos that are good
in the Ram trucks. I have run 1.5+ under with them on a budget. The 318 combo are few and not very good. It is better in a F body Mopar. I do have a 360 Combo Truck N/SA for $9,500 turnkey or $7,000 rolling that is finished. |
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Good luck with what ever you choose and hope to see you at the races soon. |
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With a "built" vehicle, you can get right into testing, tuning, experimenting. That's what Stock is all about.
Used to be, you bought a used street vehicle and made it a race car. Now, it's classic car stock racing. To build from scratch, you'll either have to spend considerable bucs just to get a nice original vehicle, or spend considerable bucs to make a dog nice enough to THEN spend modifying it. Heck, now days, just a paint job can cost more than what it used to cost to buy and build a competitive car. (depending on class, a bit) Geez, I'm talking myself into an already done car! But I'm a recovering addict and wwwwwwill not ggggget into it aaaaaaagain.... |
Re: Jumping in to Stock Eliminator
Well I guess I will go against the grain. I have 2 LOWER class cars that I've assembled myself. My "N" car has only run .45 Over. My "EF" car has already run .51 under. Part of this Stock deal is picking a good combo. I like the technical part of this and seeing what works and what doesn't. Which probably goes against what my wallet can afford.? But to me , this way is more gratifying.
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Although it's not a Stock Eliminator car, you might find this interesting:
Recently, I quickly added up the invoices for suspension, steering, wheels, tires and brakes on my Nova street machine. I'm a Canadian, but all of the prices were in US dollars, without shipping or taxes. The total was north of $9250 and that doesn't include the rear end assembly. That's for a leaf spring car that is similar to a stocker. There's one caveat: I did use Detroit Speed upper and lower a-arms ($1400 or so), but if it was a stock eliminator car, I still would have had bushings, ball joints and mods to install the shocks to deal with. What I'm getting at is you can end up with a lot of $$$ in what seems like a simple rebuild, if you decide to use good quality parts. Just food for thought.... |
Re: Jumping in to Stock Eliminator
There is a lot to be said with building your own stocker you must have the equipment, skills, drive and time.
The satisfaction of getting it to the track (which most never do) then racing it and being successful can not be beat. It's what Stock is all about! When buying an existing car the good cars are not cheap and the cheap cars are not that good. Of course high / low price is relative to the class and combination. The Pickup Truck above if you're OK with the class it fits is probably the buy of the year seeing who built it. Meet at the track watch it run and take it home. |
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I did nearly everything on Olds Stocker and buying swap meet, ebay and having junk on shelf to use it still came to over 9k to build. Machine work on block and basic everyday head job was what I farmed out. Trans kit, bearings, gaskets, rings were about the only new items.
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That's the way to got if possible...What set up were you running |
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What is your predicted timeline? I spent 3 years building my Mustang Stocker, then spent another 2 years testing/breaking/sorting out stuff and figuring out how to get it working half decently. A deal like Mr. Irvings could have you competitive next weekend. Yes, there certainly can be satisfaction in building your own car, but there are an awful lot of partially done, and sadly, likely to never be raced, race cars sitting in garages , covered in dust and cardboard boxes. I`m in my 60s, and if I ever get another Stocker, I will likely buy one already done. Its too easy to lose interest on long term project cars. (this is coming from a guy who is finally nearing completion of an 18 year street strip project car, so I do have some insight on this subject!)
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One thing everybody has missed is, when you buy something already done, from a guy who knows his way around these things, you can bend his ear for advice and direction.
Believe me when I say, that kind of help is priceless. |
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I bought a running car and not much of the worked I liked so to please me I redid all but the paint. I always want to be the fastest, and I try to do what I can to reach that goal.The more you do the better you can hear what the car is trying to tell you.
Its way cheaper to buy one running fast than to make it fast. However you go we all look forward to seeing you at the races. |
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I went the " I got to have one of the favorite cars I owned from the '70's" with a '67 GT500. I'm topping $15K on just the motor. My home built from scratch car is going to be in $50K range. And too many years to build, luckily I see light at the end of the tunnel. |
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Building in to S/SS sounds like fun but it is a can of worms if you are new to race car building. it's very easy to make a part purchase mistake that boots you out of class and difficult and expensive to get straight. Make a stage one decision: bracket or class? If it's bracket, build but for class buy.
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