Bellhousing
 

Well its bellhousing time for my project....

Im looking at the Mcleod aluminum piece. anybody have any experience with these?

Re: Bellhousing
 

I inquired a couple of times, but they never had any in stock. Compare the weight to make sure it is a good weight savings. I know one would think it should be lighter, but that can vary depending on how they made it and if it requires a liner.

Re: Bellhousing
 

They're advertised steel or titanium liner.

Re: Bellhousing
 

I got my bell from Browell,
BBI-6.1 WR.
They DID NOT recommend an aluminum one
for my application, Stock Eliminator!
Terry K

Re: Bellhousing
 

Thanks guys.

It really ended up being a no brainer.

The McLeod is 15 pounds lighter, has a larger inspection window, was on the shelf vs. 3/4 week wait and was $100 cheaper.

They currently are shipping with the titanium liner for no extra cost.

Re: Bellhousing
 

I really like that 15 lbs savings. I would also like to know what the fork options are, with Browell there are some great adjustability options.

Re: Bellhousing
 

I bought the McLeod SBF bellhousing for my 93 Mustang stocker, it is really nice, thinking of using it on my CJ project. I am not sure about the fork, the stock mustang cable will work, haven't really looked at what I will need for mechanical linkage.

Re: Bellhousing
 

If you get a chance to weigh it please post or let me know the actual bellhousing weight and block save weight?

Re: Bellhousing
 

Nice big window. What trans are you running with that bell? I heard the depth is for a T5 and that is different than a Jerico?

Re: Bellhousing
 

My Jerico is T5 input length

Re: Bellhousing
 

So is mine Brian. Any SB Ford application using the FOX style cable clutch needs to use the longer T5 input shaft and deeper bellhousing to have enough room for it to all fit. The Jerico for my FE has an input shaft that is about an inch shorter than the one for my small block. You just order the correct input (or trans) from Jerico for your application. That is how both my Jericos came to have the correct length input shafts and tip dimensions for my Fords, but have the MoPar "Hemi" 18 spline configuration, which allows me to use the small input Ford throw out bearing and fork.
Jerry, thats a great looking bellhousing, does McLeod have those in stock for SB Fords? My steel McLeod bell is coming due for a re cert, less weight and a window would sure be nice. Does yours have provision for both the 157 and 164 tooth flywheel and starter?

Re: Bellhousing
 

I bought it from Jegs, a 164 tooth flywheel will fit. part # is 8560T

Re: Bellhousing
 

I run a Quicktime SBF bellhousing, I would guess looking at the picture of the McLeod that they would be comparable in weight. For sure the Lakewood unit is way heavier and also considerably dimensionally larger. In the case of the Quicktime, they only fit the 157 tooth, not the larger 164. Also, Quicktime used to be a pretty good price, after they got bought out, the price virtually doubles, as I recall the SBF unit is around $600. No complaints with the quality though.

Jim Caughlin
SS 6019

Re: Bellhousing
 

Can you or anyone else that has used this bellhousing comment on how easy it is for you to set the air gap with the inspection window that far back?

Thanks,
John

Re: Bellhousing
 

Checking the air gap requires an extra hole drilled between the window and the mounting surface. Mine is at the 6 o'clock position. I use long machinist feeler gauges to reach the disc.

Kelly

Re: Bellhousing
 

Regarding air gap, yes you have to drill a hole to check clearance and also note that after you drill the hole, you have voided getting the bellhousing recertified. As you are mainly looking for the minimum air gap, I have a round rod (that is the minimum gap diameter) that fits through the hole easier, I ground it to a point at the end so it will slide into position easier. Bear in mind that if you are shifting without the clutch (which pretty much everyone is) that air gap is not that big of a deal, mainly I use it as a delay box for fine tuning reaction time.

Jim Caughlin
SS 6019

Re: Bellhousing
 

I assume you are drilling a hole through the liner too. If so, are you worried about compromising the integrity of the liner?

Are you also saying that other than RT, the air gap does not impact performance at launch? So RT aside, there is no difference between launching with 0.030" and 0.060" air gap?

Re: Bellhousing
 

When you go to full RPM on the starting line, the counterweights are going to close up some of the air gap which is why you need the gap in the first place. Also the reason why you need extra gap in the bellhousing for the throw out brg, otherwise the brg would start contacting the counterweight fingers at high RPM. Even with the line lock set, if the air gap is too tight, you can feel it tugging on the brakes, early disc failure at least. If you have the minimum reqd air gap, it's just a matter of RT from there. I always state my disclaimer: your results may vary...

Jim Caughlin
SS 6019

Re: Bellhousing
 

hey jerry on another note did you find someone to make you headers on you cobra jet project thanks john lemoine

Re: Bellhousing
 

They advertise 13.5lbs. I tossed it on my crappy bathroom scale and it's close.

It's definitely a nice piece and I'll cover the install in my build thread.

Probably not the smartest idea to build a A/B stick car when I have limited knowledge about clutches but we have a few people to help sort me out.

After reading this tread it got my mind going. I thought the point of the window was for adjustments and setting air gap but with guys saying they still had to drill a hole got me thinking......... are you guys really drilling these holes and voiding getting it re certified or is there another way to set the gap??

Oh, another thing speaking of clutch forks......I didn't even think to ask Brian what the offered but from what I see online they only offer a factory style fork. I did some searching and came across a set up from Bickle that does away with the pivot ball and uses a heim joint. Would this be legal?

Re: Bellhousing
 

This is from a thread on the YB.

Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2017 11:15 AM
To: Info
Subject: Bellhousing Recertification
Dear Sir
Could you please tell me if an adjustment hole like this is an acceptable modification for recertification?
Thank You

Thank You for your support of McLeod Racing.
Yes that would be acceptable for SFI re certification.
Kind Regards,
cid:448235323@06022013-176A
Billy Mieczkowski
Technical Sales

Mcleod Racing
1600 Sierra Madre Circle
Placentia, Ca 92870
billym@mcleodracing.com
tel:714 630 2764 Ext 223
fax:714 630 5129

https://apis.mail.yahoo.com/ws/v3/ma...ls=false&pid=2

Re: Bellhousing
 

I drilled a hole to check airgap in my Browell. When it came back from the first recert, they tapped it and put a plug in. No questions or additional charges other than the recert fee. Not everyone is liable to do the same, so beware.The bellhousings with a window require recert every 2 years.

Sean

Re: Bellhousing
 

The SFI re-certification and drilling a hole for the air gap can be an issue. Browell Bellhousing made this modification to mine. As I understand it after having a conversion with Brian at Browell, the only hole that can be drilled into the Bellhousing without impacting the cert has to be done to the transmission flange. People drill a hole in the flange to make clutch adjustments with a T-handle. The large window might not make that necessary. It will depend on the clutch that you use and if you can get access though the window.


https://www.flickr.com/gp/141020629@N07/prnT0P


In regards to the Bickle clutch fork setup. I also attempted to do this.

https://www.flickr.com/gp/141020629@N07/D9R7Kt


I found in theory it works great. However, In practice I found out that the heim joint has too large of a profile and it created clearance issues with the clutch that i am using and the limited space available in the bellhousing. I could not reduce the height of the pivot enough to get enough clearance. The standard pivot ball is a much lower profile. In the end, I used the stock style setup but i reinforced the clutch fork. The Bickle setup is sitting in a drawer.

Re: Bellhousing
 

That would have been really slick,if you could have made it work. I will probably have to modify a fork for mine also.

Re: Bellhousing
 

I purchased a kit for my 69 camaro. I think Bickle sells it.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/141020.../shares/XxJK73

I used it as a starting point then modified the clutch fork to use a Heim joint.

Re: Bellhousing
 

Thanks for the info. Definitely saved my $400 on the clutch fork!!! To bad that wont work!!

Re: Bellhousing
 

Here are the pictures of the clutch fork that were requested. Credit goes to Phil Mandella Jr. for the fabrication.

https://flic.kr/p/21CcUGo

https://flic.kr/p/21F2k1M

https://flic.kr/p/ZjDY2B

Re: Bellhousing
 

That is nice, thanks for the photos !!!

Re: Bellhousing
 

We were talking about welding a heim to the end of the fork but I really like the extra adjustment of that set up!!! Thanks for the pic.

Not bellhousing related but I'm getting ready to re stab the motor and get the trans mounted..... are you guys using any type of trans mount or bolting it directly to the crossmember??

Re: Bellhousing
 

I used a Energy Suspension brand polyurethane transmission mount, Jerico said to use it.

Re: Bellhousing
 

I'm a dealer for McLeod and can usually beat anyone's prices. Get your part number and pm it to me. Same for Edelbrock, Comp, JE.

Re: Bellhousing
 

For those that are looking for real numbers. The old bellhousing is the standard Lakewood SBC PN 15000 (30.6 lbs). The Mcleod is the new aluminum style with the titanium insert (14.8 lbs). This is only the bellhousing and does not include the motor plate. The weight savings is 15.8 lbs.

Re: Bellhousing
 

Warning: I just tried to install this bellhousing and it will not fit. I am using a 10" Advanced Clutches single disc clutch and the counter weights hit the inside of the bellhousing badly. What tipped me off was that the bellhousing wouldn't sit flush to the engine block. When I looked into why the problem because clear. This is a nice product but if this won't fit under my clutch assembly it will not fit under a lot of other clutches. I feel Mcleod should give a better product description to bring this to the attention of possible buyers.

Re: Bellhousing
 

Looking back at your pictures I can see why, the new one really looks like it cones down shallow right where the counter weight sticks past the clutch cover.

Re: Bellhousing
 

Dave,

This is just a thought, have you contacted Rob yet about this issue? He may have a solution for your current clutch.

Good luck
Sean

Re: Bellhousing
 

I haven't yet I am going to.

Re: Bellhousing
 

I ran into the same problem with a Quicktime and one of Rob's clutches. I ended up installing a 1/4" spacer plate between the bell and the plate (QuickTime RM-6013). Then I had to readjust the fork and throwout bearing clearances. After all the juggling it worked.

Re: Bellhousing
 

The quick time I use has a thicker block saver, so maybe that is worth a try. It is aluminum. I can fit that clutch and a dual 7. I have put a billet clutch in with the spacer. You need to make sure to realign everything and check your crossmember mount and even driveshaft length if you were close.

Re: Bellhousing
 

This item is all set I'm on to other things now, I work quickly. I ended up using a Quciktime 1/4" thick steel midplate and adjusted the ball stud height to make up for the 1/4" extra depth.

Re: Bellhousing
 

Did all of the bolt holes line up Orr did you need to re drill some on the lower half?