Compressor filter/dryer
 

For background: I have a "standard" double car garage I am in the process of renovating. I figured after 15 years with 2 outlets and a light bulb I should update it and move into at least the 20th century(lol). I have ran 20 amp circuits for the garage and even wired in T8 fluorescent lights on the ceiling. Hung drywall (for the first time) on two walls to finish off the space. Paint is next, then ceiling storage racks to place seasonal items and rarely used items up off the floor. I have updated the garage attic and hung additional insulation to an already insulated attic. I have ran a dedicated 220v line in the attic and plan on relocating the compressor into the attic so I can have more floor space. I will then run a compressor line kit from the compressor through the ceiling and furnish air to various parts of the garage, including an air reel at the rear of the garage to supply air out to the driveway when needed. The compressor is a DeVilbiss, 5hp, 60 gallon, twin cylinder, oil less compressor that I have owned for nearly 17 years.

The question: Since the compressor will be relocated to the attic where drastic humidity and temperature changes occur throughout the 4 seasons in MD, is it necessary to run a compressed air filter or dryer as seen in the links or other types;

http://www.eastwood.com/rti-regulato...0-120-psi.html
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-4-stage-2...m-1-2-npt.html

or continue business as usual? Most of my work comes with using air tools occasionally, pumping up tires mostly, and for the compressed air for an air nozzle. It used to be that oil less compressors did not need the filter/dryer as long as you were not using paint guns. Is this still true?

Your input and insight is greatly appreciated.

Re: Compressor filter/dryer
 

I have my compressor outside and plumbed the air intake so it it picks up the dehumidified air inside the climate controlled shop. ---Trevor

Re: Compressor filter/dryer
 

I would suggest installing a blowdown on the bottom of the tank. It could be a timed 120 VAC solenoid, or as simple as a ball valve that you manually open. Moisture will kill the tank, as it will rust from the inside out. With the hot and humid air from the attic, fabricating a source of air to the compressor may also help. In the industrial and commercial HVAC world, with pneumatic controls, oil and water has to be reduced and eliminated. So for your tires and pneumatic tools, I would not spend the money on an air drier. Keep your pneumatic tools oiled, and eliminate condensed moisture in the tank.

I would pipe down from the attic, and install a tee. Out of the bottom of the tee, a 6" or longer nipple, and ball valve. This would be a blowdown to help separate any moisture. On the other opening of the tee, a regulator, and you are set. On the blowdown you can reduce the diameter to 1/4" copper and run it outside. Keep everything from the tank line size until the regulator. So if the tank fitting is 3/4", all piping should be 3/4" until the regulator. Reduce down at the regulator. This will not restrict the air volume.

Sean

Re: Compressor filter/dryer
 

not sure how much pressure you are going to have in the lines BUT do not use galvanized or black pipe ---they cannot handle lotsa pressurelike over 100 + PSI---they were not designed for that---they are for low pressure water and gas piping not air lines--- ya I know everyone uses it but it's not the SAFE way to do it

Re: Compressor filter/dryer
 

What black pipe are you refering too? Water pressure in schedule 40 pipe exceeds 150 PSI 24/7 365. In hospitals, industrial and high rise buildings, if the pumps are located in the lowest point in the building, they have to overcome the height of the building to get to the highest systems. So the lowest points would have the highest pressure. A 300 ft vertical pipe filled with water would have 129.9 PSI at the bottom while static. And more to push the water higher with a pump. We pipe pneumatic air lines, chilled water, hot water and steam for hospitals and industrial in black pipe since 1919. It depends on the application as to what schedule of pipe that is used.

What ever you do NO PVC, or CPVC PLASTIC.

Sean

Re: Compressor filter/dryer
 

SEAN--ditto on Plastic stuff--- I know guys that try to plumb their garages with black or galvanized plumbing/gas pipe and put in excess of 175-200 maybe more pounds thru it ---suicidal!!!!--- I'm no engineer but there are alternatives to do it safely--keyword here safely--- if you feel that galv/black pipe will safely work at the 125-150 pound range fine just don't get carried away with higher pressures--You seem to know so I respect that but some guys have a 60 gallon Sears oilless compresser and others have a big humongeous2 stage 5 HP 150 gallon Ingersall Rand industrial compresser--I tend to lean to the conservative side on things like this--FED387

Re: Compressor filter/dryer
 

FED 387 I was trying to post without sounding like a jerk, so hopefully it came across that way.

The velocity of the fluid also impacts how long the piping will last. For the given application and the amount of use, schedule 40 will live longer than most of us, unless it is made in China, and then it may not be worth a crap before it gets on the ship! Same way with fittings.

For the air compresser having less than a total of 60' of piping just a guess, keep any horizontal piping runs with a minimum grade so that any water will drain. Any vertical elevation change should have a dirt leg (scale pocket) and a drain valve. Ronnie by the time were done with our helpful hints, you could run the piping around your entire house!

Sean

Re: Compressor filter/dryer
 

^^lol on piping around the house.

Sean, I sent you a PM.

Thanks for the posts and recommendations.

Re: Compressor filter/dryer
 

I have to ask, if you install your air compressor up in the attic how are you
going to drain the air/moisture out of the tank after each days use??

It may take a few years, but I have seen what happens to a air tank if not
drained on a regular basis, lots of pinholes in the tank, not repairable...

Re: Compressor filter/dryer
 

The noise and vibration from that compressor mounted in the attic will vibrate entire house. Your family will want to strangle you.

Re: Compressor filter/dryer
 

The compressor has been winched up to the attic and set in place. It's in the garage portion of the attic at the furthest point away from the "house" portion separated by a fire wall. I have also hung additional insulation to absorb and deaden the sound. At some point, I will put a sound wall up to help deaden the noise even more. For the most part, the compressor does not run often - or late either.

To address the moisture and condensation, I am plumbing a separate line and dump valve from the bottom of the tank into the garage and either dump it in a container or outside. I will have the main line run off the top of the tank/regulator, plumbed through the ceiling into the garage and into a distribution manifold where I will have 3 lines around the garage. Each outlet has a moisture valve where I can purge moisture if necessary.

It is not fully complete yet, but it is more quiet in the house now when the compressor is running than when it was in the garage. Waiting on a few more pieces to complete the system, then I will finish plumbing the lines.

Now I have more room in the garage! This was the whole intent of moving the compressor and hanging ceiling racks over the garage door for storage. I constructed a workbench on heavy-duty hinges that I can fold up when not in use - so I can park the 2nd car in the garage - as it was designed. When the compressor project is completed the next project is epoxy paint on the floor. I have already ran electric throughout including new T8 lights, hung drywall and paint. The final project is to put in nice aluminum cabinets - this will be accomplished years down the road after tuition bills have been paid...

Re: Compressor filter/dryer
 

Philip,
I do not think I explained my post very well with the blow down. The correct approach would be to have a separate pipe directly out of the bottom of the tank, along with the supply pipe. The blowdown out of the bottom of the tank would have a ball valve on it and 1/4" copper piped outside. If the air compressor is used alot, then you could install a timed blowdown solenoid. These are 120V units and plug into an outlet, all commercial pneumatic systems that we install or service has them. It takes the maintenance staff out of the picture for the system filling with water and ruining thousands of dollars of equipment, and someone on the operating table to be in jeopardy.

As for the noise and shaking issue. Spring isolators would be my suggestion.

Hopefully this makes more sense!

http://i569.photobucket.com/albums/s...psfe75ea0d.jpg

Sean

Re: Compressor filter/dryer
 

Ronnie,
I meant to send you a picture like I just made in the previous post, but it sounds like it is coming together very well!

Sean